The first few days of driving I was not able to get into boost at all. I thought it was the bypass valve (ATI red "race" version), but figured I'd try to tighten the belt first... I guess I overtightened it. The pulleys were all "rattling" is the best way I can describe it. I didn't drive it at all, just let it idle in my driveway for about a minute until the idler pulley pretty much welded itself to the j-bracket. I have an 8 rib ATI pulley kit from a LS1tech member and he gave me 2 idler pullies. The bigger one was the first one I had on it. So the belt is all but shredded now. I have another belt on order, but I put the smaller idler on and the worn out belt back on for now. I felt for leaks along all the piping, and found none. Took it for a drive and it went into boost when I slowly rolled into the throttle. Okay, so now is where it gets wierd. When I just hammer it out of the hole, my gauge shows vacuum getting lower, but it never quite gets to 0. In fact- it gets to about -5 then starts increasing WTF When it does this, I can hear a very pronounced leak that sounds like the bypass valve is not closed at all. I can slowly roll into the throttle, but when I do, it will not get above about 5#. I have a 7.75" crank & 4.25" blower pulleys. I think I should see 7~8#. So I have 2 different problems here: 1) won't go into boost right off the line; and 2) won't go all the way up to full boost. Could there only be 1 gremlin causing both problems? Does it matter which vacuum line I have the bypass valve spliced into? Right now I have it hooked to where the Procharger instruction manual shows to tee off for the FMU right by the check valve on the p/s by the firewall (I don't have an FMU tho).

 

The last time someone burned their idler pulley into the J-bracket its because they forgot to tighten the bolt holding it on.

It sounds like you have a major leak someplace.

 

The bolt was tight. Maybe not tight enough tho. Oh well, got that problem taken care of pretty quickly.

I thought I had a leak too, but the only problem is that it is only some of the time. The only thing I could think of that would cause that is the bypass valve. I'll have to try adjusting it and see what happens I guess...

 

Sounds like you have the bypass valve on the wrong port of that check valve. Look at the instructions and follow it very carefully. If you are on the wrong port the bypass valve will never close. Even with the bypass wide open it will still build a few pounds of boost at high RPM.

 

I thought I had done it exactly as shown, but I'll double check when I get home.

Went for a little drive at lunch. Only saw 3# max. When I got back to work and popped the hood to see if I had any dust anywhere I noticed that my 8 rib belt has turned into a 4 rib belt between last night and today Gee- that wouldn't have anything to do with it now would it Perhaps I'll lay off the spirited driving until my new belt arrives tomorrow

 

damn SC's

get the new belt in there and then see how it responds...

 

Okay- got the new belt on last night and took her for a drive. The boost gauge was still not going above 0. In fact at WOT it was showing 5-10# of vacuum. But my butt-o-meter was telling me a diffferent story. I could feel the boost So I concluded my boost gauge must be hooked up wrong, or a leak in it or something. Turns out I had my boost gauge hooked to the line that comes out of the back of the manifold, but after a little check valve. No problem- moved it to the same place I was tapping into the bypass and vuala! about 6~7# showing on the boost gauge now at WOT at 5500 RPM Now gotta get her fine tuned on the dyno, then off to the track

 

Only thing I am not sure about now tho is at idle, I am only showing 8~10# of vacuum on the boost gauge. Before, it was like about 17# of vacuum at idle. I'm not too worried about knowing what my vacuum is, but just wondered why it would read differently than before?