Turbotech kit Q's
But I hear that:
1) Downpipe is tiny
2) Gnarly looking kit
Any real life experiences?
Does the kit include exhaust manifolds for both sides?
Are the pipes prohibitively small to make big power?
Anyone running the T76 kit how is it?
Anything problem with the welds or parts?
Would you reccomend it?
(please avoid suggesting incon, CAS, or LS1M, I am aware of their kits I just want to get a feel for the Turbo Tech if it's basically crap)
my kit developed cracks in some of the welds after about 14k miles of daily driving.. i hear this is because they use stainless piping but not stainless weld rods.
the kit includes the drivers side turbo log, the drivers stock manifold or shortie header is to be supplied by you.
i had a lot of fun with mine.. if the kit is new and say around the 3k range with out fuel system/tuning.. i would give it another whirl IF the afformentioned single kit was not being packed for me now.
Had some clearance problems with my bro's kit so we sent it back and found out it was for the wrong year/tranny. Jim at turbotech was really helpful.
If it's used be sure to find out if the kit is for an auto or a 6 speed and what year.
I'm going for 9s on a stock turbotech kit <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
<small>[ December 20, 2002, 08:43 PM: Message edited by: AlienDroid ]</small>
i have a deltagate, and its not big enough, im currently looking for a better one. a racegate, tial or HKS
2) Gnarly looking kit -Poor design, Kit was developed for a 60-1 and just does not have the flow to support alot more without tons of work.
Any real life experiences? Yes many. Dealt with turbo tech and got a bad taste in my mouth when they told me my manifold was there not theres then proceded to charge me to weld there broken manifold up Manifold cracked quite a bit. Intercooler blocked rads air flow which made it a pain had to add more fans to make car stay cool
Does the kit include exhaust manifolds for both sides? No it only has a manifold for the one side and has a cross over from the stock manifold or like header that you decide to buy. I was told once that getting a header for the pass side was a waste of money (this was from George himself)
Are the pipes prohibitively small to make big power? Yes everything is too small minus the huge turbo that overweighs the wastegate by alot
Anyone running the T76 kit how is it? Ran a t-72 but got frustraited with the kit and decided to build a real system for myself rather than patch together one.
Anything problem with the welds or parts? Almost every weld on my manifold broke. After reading some on stainless and talking with Burns stainless the problem inlies in the short primaries. The manifold rate of expansion and retraction compared to the cyl head is way diff. Hence why they all break.
Would you reccomend it? For the 60-1 hifi system for a basic setup Sure would. For that level of the system it serves its purpose. A cheap step into turbocharging. For a race system, No would tell you to save money and heartache and get a real setup built.
The product serves a purpose. It is not a race system nor should be billed as one.
Steven
<small>[ December 21, 2002, 03:10 PM: Message edited by: zturbo ]</small>
Call jim at turbo tech and get the 3" downpipe, youll definatly need it to make big power.
Id like to upgrade the intercooler later, with a better flowing one, ill have to watch my IAT more carefully to see if its working right.
I constructed my own 2.5" crossover, as i felt the 2" they supplied was to small.
Some the LT1 guys with the turbo tech kit suggest cutting the logs plate between two header bolts to allow it to flex under heat, thus stopping header cracking problems. I have not done this yet but plan on doing this soon, hopefully soon enough.
Id recomend it if you get a good deal, i got mine used and am happy with it.
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But on the M6 kits the crossover runs up toward the front of your engine (looks restrictive) and the A4 runs under the tranny.
I did a custom crossover and it went under my M6 tranny with 2.5" tubing, but lost ground clearance. They might have changed it?
PSJ, i saw you PM and will answer it hear.
the only thing id worry about going FI is getting your engines CR down to about 9.0:1. to take advanage of the kit you need it lower so you can run good boost.
You were one of the top N/A F-bodys, so im not sure what you have planned with your motor, but it might take some work making it accept forced induction.
Going FI is a pain, i tell every one, its not worth it unless you plan on making over 500rwhp, and want drivability. N20 is a lot easier, but its just what shizzles your nizzle.
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<strong>Great responses I learned a lot.
What is the difference 'tween a M6 and an A4 kit?
Having welds crack would really bug me.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The wastgate is mounted in a different spot on the manifold, to avoid clearance problems between the cars.
<strong>Great responses I learned a lot.
What is the difference 'tween a M6 and an A4 kit?
Having welds crack would really bug me.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The wastgate is mounted in a different spot on the manifold, to avoid clearance problems between the cars.
I would not keep the same engine configuration, I would have to sell my crank since I can't get a FI piston that will work unless I go with a 6' rod which I don't want to do with a 4.075 crank nor would I want to run a lot of stroke with a turbo anyway.
So the pervailing feeling is go Turbotech if you get a hella deal on the kit because for a serious HP effort I'd end up changing a lot of stuff on the kit.






