Cooling issues
#1
Cooling issues
I am working on a ls1 swapped fd rx7. I built a turbo kit for it and it doesnt like to stay cool. If I let it idle it will stay at 185 degrees, if you drive it around and the egt's rise then the temp will rise as much as 239 degrees. If you dont get on the car and just let it cruise they will stay around 205 degrees. Pre turbo kit the car didnt overheat or have any problems.
Now to the list of things that hinder/help its cooling:
it has a underdrive pulley that is 1.5'' smaller in dia then stock
I cannot fit a stock dia crank pulley due to space restrictions because of the turbo kit
it has hardly no flow across the radiator due to the intercooler and I cant see a way to make a passage
I did put a new good single 16'' fal fan
it has a 3'' thick aluminum radiator
the radiator has both inlet and exit on the same side but there is a divider in the end tank
It has a 160* thermo
the coolant is completely full, has no leaks, no air pockets
I have tried just water, water and coolant, and water/coolant/water wetter
I have flushed the system and it is clean
Now my questions/comments:
What do you think might be the biggest thing keeping it from staying cool?
What should I change?
Shouldnt egts be around 1,000 while crusing say on the expressway in 6th?
I am thinking of making a smaller bell for a 98 water pump so it will spin closer to stock rpms, does anyone think that will help?
TIA,
Now to the list of things that hinder/help its cooling:
it has a underdrive pulley that is 1.5'' smaller in dia then stock
I cannot fit a stock dia crank pulley due to space restrictions because of the turbo kit
it has hardly no flow across the radiator due to the intercooler and I cant see a way to make a passage
I did put a new good single 16'' fal fan
it has a 3'' thick aluminum radiator
the radiator has both inlet and exit on the same side but there is a divider in the end tank
It has a 160* thermo
the coolant is completely full, has no leaks, no air pockets
I have tried just water, water and coolant, and water/coolant/water wetter
I have flushed the system and it is clean
Now my questions/comments:
What do you think might be the biggest thing keeping it from staying cool?
What should I change?
Shouldnt egts be around 1,000 while crusing say on the expressway in 6th?
I am thinking of making a smaller bell for a 98 water pump so it will spin closer to stock rpms, does anyone think that will help?
TIA,
Last edited by black98ws6ta; 10-25-2005 at 01:43 AM.
#5
Originally Posted by smokinHawk
is there anyway you can relocate the intercooler or do something so the radiator gets good air?
#6
Originally Posted by longrange4u
Bob,
You guys thinking of adding that cooling bar solution that you have to your setup?
Jared
You guys thinking of adding that cooling bar solution that you have to your setup?
Jared
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#8
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Are there any plastic shrouds around the radiator on an RX7 like there is on an f-body? Maybe you could create more of a vacuum if you added some.....
Note - on my NA motor a Mez elec H2O pump dropped the temps 10*.
Note - on my NA motor a Mez elec H2O pump dropped the temps 10*.
#9
Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
Are there any plastic shrouds around the radiator on an RX7 like there is on an f-body? Maybe you could create more of a vacuum if you added some.....
Note - on my NA motor a Mez elec H2O pump dropped the temps 10*.
Note - on my NA motor a Mez elec H2O pump dropped the temps 10*.
Anthony
#11
Originally Posted by FastKat
Are you sure that's enough fan?... and it's coming on, right?? Did you try running without a thermostat? Also, how old is the radiator - there could be some mineral deposits in it if it's older... try and feel for any cool spots on the face of the rad.
Anthony
#12
Check the catalog on the fan that you have (FAL) on the bottom of every page of there catalog it tells you that there electric fans are not ment for use on multiple core radiators. Even though we do not sell spal fans any longer they have a line of fans that have larger motors and they can operate at higher static then the FAL fans. We sell our own type of 16" fan and it will pull 1900 cfm through the core that size at 15 FPI. This is happenin alot lately we are getting more and more of the people running this brand of fan haveing issues. There is three different manufacture that i know of that have 225 watt fan motors SPAL, Maradyne and Tripac. Be on the look out we have a 225 watt 17" fan comming out that will smoke them all. Please stay away from the FAL and Zirgo they did the worse out of them all when we tested them.
#15
Originally Posted by goober35
Is there any shrowding around fans right now.
What is the cfm's of the fans on the car right now.
What will it be if you change the fan.
What is the cfm's of the fans on the car right now.
What will it be if you change the fan.
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/syclone.html
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That is your problem. You are not pulling enuff air across because u do not have any shrowding. Build to buy something that covers the back side so u can pull the air from across the hole thing not just a small portion.
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Ok If you cover the radiator and cut a hole in it for the fan to draw the air thoughn this will alow more air to move across the radiator. This will help with cooling.
If you just stick a fan next to a radiator and try an pull air though it. The parts part that the fan is not on and some of the part the fan is on will not be cooled.
If you just stick a fan next to a radiator and try an pull air though it. The parts part that the fan is not on and some of the part the fan is on will not be cooled.
#20
Originally Posted by black98ws6ta
Thanks alot I will try this tommorrow. I need to space the fan and piece that is going to cover the lengh of the radiator away about 1/4 of a inch to be effective right?
When you do the shroud it would be a good idea to make a few rubber flaps in the area around the fan so when you are at highway speeds you can get more air through the core. It will also help the life of the fan.