Need help with GWP install two details not known
Well I am just about finished with my GWP stage II install but I have a few questions:
1. The rubber tubing between the air box and throttle body. Mine is kinked in the middle from having to bend down to adjust over the radiator support. How do I get rid of this? Cut a little off the bottom to stretch the material?
2. There is a 3/8 hose that runs off the black air inlet hat. There is also a 3/16 hose with a T adapter that comes off the surge valve. Where do I tap these lines in? In the ATI directions it uses it for the FMU. I do not have a FMU with the GWP kit so I can’t use the directions. I have an Aeromotive pump and fuel controller. Please be specific with the directions if you know where they go.
<strong> Hey everyone.
Well I am just about finished with my GWP stage II install but I have a few questions:
1. The rubber tubing between the air box and throttle body. Mine is kinked in the middle from having to bend down to adjust over the radiator support. How do I get rid of this? Cut a little off the bottom to stretch the material?
2. There is a 3/8 hose that runs off the black air inlet hat. There is also a 3/16 hose with a T adapter that comes off the surge valve. Where do I tap these lines in? In the ATI directions it uses it for the FMU. I do not have a FMU with the GWP kit so I can’t use the directions. I have an Aeromotive pump and fuel controller. Please be specific with the directions if you know where they go. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yeah, problem #1 is an ATI issue, not GWP.
I simply trimmed the hose in the spots that allow a straight shot to the TB.
Actually, you confuse me a bit; the hose goes from the Inlet Plenum to the MAF to the Throttle-Body (TB).
There should be no kink in the middle.
Double-check your installation.
For item #2, I put the smaller hose from the Surge Valve to a vacuum source, tee'd off where I did my Hobbs Switch and Boost Guage vacuum sources. This will control the Surge Valve releasing pressure when you come off boost.
The larger 3/8 hose goes to the fitting coming off the valve cover. That is where you removed the hose and capped the fitting at coming from the TB (which was at the other end of the hose).
When I get home, I'll double-check what I just told you to confirm I remember it correctly. (I left my car home because I removed the pump as I plan for a fuel system upgrade.)
If you email me at michael@mlbuie.com or michael.buie@mmicnc.com, I will give you my phone number if you need to ask questions as you do the install.
Good luck!
Thanks for the help. I was incorrect with my wording on the throttle body thing, your definition is correct. I trimmed it down and it seems to have corrected the problem.
Thanks for the info on the 3/8 hose I completed that install. However I do not have a hobbs switch with my kit. Was that supposed to come from ATI or Kenny? That is unless it is stock on the car to begin with. I have yet to hook up my boost gauge because I did not want to alter the vaccume source before I installed the kit, changing the directions. So basically I am clueless where the T fitting goes on my car. Do you have a picture that illustrates this on your website? That T connection is also very small(3/16), I looked around but could not find any hoses that would work for that kind of connection.
Thanks for the help.
Sincerely
Badz2801
<small>[ March 24, 2003, 11:25 AM: Message edited by: badz2801 ]</small>
I think what I am going to do for the 3/16 t fitting it get another brass T fitting. Connect the two together and then have the boost gauge running from one of them and the surge from another. Kinda like Taxmans hobbs setup. Is there any risk in tapping the brake booster instead of the TB? I want to tap the location that is less vital and will cause the least amount of dammage should something fail.
Sincerely
Badz2801
I re-read your post and you have the update that GWP provided where you get a pump controller that varies the speed of the Aeromotive instead of a Hobbs switch that is an On/Off switch based on whether you are at boost or not. I'm jealous. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Forget what I said about the Hobbs switch (that would have boost activated a relay that applied power to the fuel pump). The Tee you speak of may not be what you need. Simply find a way to put hte 3/16" hose to any vacuum source.
You can tee into the Brake Booster or you can tee into the vacuum source on the driver's side of the TB, for instance. You may have to run out to a parts store to do that. I'd go ahead and plan the Boost Guage tap-in before I do this, so you don't do it twice. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
You might try something like this coming off the TB:
<img src="http://www.blackls1ta.com/images/BoggsBoostTap.jpg" alt=" - " />
Hope that helps.
I know another guy who has your pump controller setup. Let me try to get up with him or Kenny today and see if they can explain it well enough to help you know exactly what to do. It looks like you are getting there. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
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Thanks
Mark
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NDR PRSR, it works well, from what I've been told. GWP now uses this instead of the on/off methodology of the Hobbs switch, and one of the guys I know who is using it says it works great. (I think he got it from someone other than GWP.)
<small>[ March 25, 2003, 10:14 AM: Message edited by: Black LS1 T/A ]</small>
My install is proceeding slowly because I am out of town so much with work!


