Hey guys, at your alls advice I went ahead and got the Charged Air Systems Boost Referenced Fuel Pressure Regulator. Aside from the TR-6 plugs, it's the last peice of the puzzle for my ATI tuner kit which will go in next month.

Now I have a few questions about it. What do I need to install it? It's not a direct bolt-on so I know some fabrication will need to take place.

I couldn't afford the bullit fuel rails(which would mount the CAS FPR up front), so I will have to mount it in the stock location for now. I'm sure I'm gonna need to run a vacuum line back to the FPR now. Where can I find the vacuum line and will this interfere with my boost gauge? Can I have one line split into two or do I have to taps the engine's vacuum line twice?


Any advice, pictures, suggestions, or if someone wants to show me how they've mounted there *cough* richmond crew *cough*, it would be much appreciated.

Thanks guys,
BH

 

first thing is to yank the stock one off the end of the return line inside the tank. then put all the tank crap back into place.. just no regulator.

now what 'i' would do, is get 2 3/8" O.D. hard tube to -6an female adaptors (get em from jegs)

cut your return line under the seat since its a nice recessed area.. remove the hard tube where the regulator will splice in. install the adaptors on each of the cut ends of the return line, and screw the regulator in between.

this SHOULD be pretty easy long as those adaptors work there as well as the one i used in the engine bay did. im pretty sure you're return fuel should enter on either of the side ports and exit the bottom.. thats how mine is anyhow.. working fine.

just t-off any manifold source that see's boost.
put a one way valve in there if you dont want to reprogram your computer for the drop in fp under vaccum. (keep the fp from dropping under vaccum)

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by MIGHTYMOUSE:
<strong> first thing is to yank the stock one off the end of the return line inside the tank. then put all the tank crap back into place.. just no regulator.

now what 'i' would do, is get 2 3/8" O.D. hard tube to -6an female adaptors (get em from jegs)

cut your return line under the seat since its a nice recessed area.. remove the hard tube where the regulator will splice in. install the adaptors on each of the cut ends of the return line, and screw the regulator in between.

this SHOULD be pretty easy long as those adaptors work there as well as the one i used in the engine bay did. im pretty sure you're return fuel should enter on either of the side ports and exit the bottom.. thats how mine is anyhow.. working fine.

just t-off any manifold source that see's boost.
put a one way valve in there if you dont want to reprogram your computer for the drop in fp under vaccum. (keep the fp from dropping under vaccum) </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The current FPR is in the tank? So we do have a buck system of fuel pressure regulation? I was under the inpression that the FPR was outside the tank by the fuel filter?

If I'm gonna have to drop the tank it's almost stupid not to upgrade my intank pump at the same time. I thought I would be able to do that later on. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

Dave, if I install a oneway valve then the boost gauges won't show any vacuum will they?

I didn't think that tiny vacuum tubing that comes with the boost gauges(assuming the new FPR uses the same thing) would drop pressure enough to require a reprogram. Do the boost gauge and FPR use the same kind of vacuum tubing?

I'll post a question about tuning in another thread. Thanks Dave.

BH

 

yes it is in the tank on the very end of the return line

you can get a walbro gss340m for around 100 from ramchargers, wont hurt you too bad and a GREAT mod.

install the one way valve in just the part of the line going to the regulator.. before you get back up to the joint where it conects to the boost gauge.

if you let the regulator see vaccum it will drop your fuel pressure accordingly, just like it raises fuel pressure under boost.

under boost your computer cant help the fueling much so the additional fuel pressure helps.. but under vaccum the computer is allready right.. and you are subtracting fuel from that.. which would be a problem unless you reprogram

 

Thanks again Dave. If it's not too crazy to ask, do you think you and Azzhauler will be hanging around one night soon? I'd love to come down and see these components first hand. I'm a visual person, so seeing it is as good as having the instructions. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

As for the points you mentioned, that all makes total sense.

Let me ask you, what is the intank fuel pump I "should" get? At the end of the season, or maybe early next season, I'll be getting 77cc S2 heads and cam to lower compression and make my setup a little safer. Then later on, I'll be building the bottom end so i can up the boost to 12-15 psi. I the tyype thast doesn't like to mod in stages, so if there is a better intank fuel pump that can carry me through all these stages, then I'd perfer to just get it and install it now. Assuming the price isn't outragious. What do you suggest, with the setup I'm planning?

Thanks bro,
Mike

<small>[ April 02, 2003, 12:22 AM: Message edited by: Blown Hawk ]</small>

 

so you are setting up for over 600-650rw.

i really would not go with stock rails or lines past 600. speed inc. has the stuff i bought. they also sell a single 420lph external pump that will cover you BUT it will be loud.. not nearly as loud as one of the big externals you see harlan etc. running.

a single walbro gss340 will not get you past 600 imo.. so if you wanted to stay in the tank you would want 2 of them.. this basically puts you at what i am running. i got my fuel fittings and lines from jegs.

if you do the work yourself the cost will be just under 'outrageous' (1k) for everything above.

however.. if you can control yourself.. you can save all but 100 bux of that and still get high 500's with stock lines/rails and just buy one walbro gss340 if you don't allready have one.

 

Is a dual walbro a totally different setup from a single? In other words, can I buy one now and a second one later, or will I have to buy a single now and a dual later?

 

not really, if you check my pics.. i pretty much just strapped the second one right onto the side of the first one.. the got a brass 't' from lowes and some fuel pressure hose and connected them into 1. you can do this and use the stock lines almost as easily as just the one pump. just have to wire the second one in to a switch to turn on when you need it.. not running it all the time.

this basicaly gives you what racetronix sells and saves you a few hudred bux

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by MIGHTYMOUSE:
[QBinstall the one way valve in just the part of the line going to the regulator[/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">What kind of one-way valve did you use, and where did you get it?

 

i actually didnt use a one way valve, i changed my computer tuning via ls1 edit to allow the regulator to adjust the full fuel curve for me. but if you were not able to do this, then the valve to only allow boost to the regulator could work i guess.. i never tried it personally
the regulator that was sent with some of the incon turbo kits had this built in.