ARP bolts or studs?
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 699
Likes: 1
From: Redondo Beach, California
ARP bolts or studs? Iam about to order either bolts or studs for my head swap, whats the difference in installation, torque specs, sequence, and etc? Its a 02 SS with a Phamspeed running 4.5lbs now, and later going to about 10lbs. Its my first time taking the heads off so which would be better, what are the main differrences betwwen them. thanks again 
I went through the same research, go with the studs. Many reasons, dont have to clean holes again, will keep gasket in place when installing head. Have heard in some cases were the bolts were a bit to long or there was a problem with the block and full torque was not obtained and head did not seal.
Cant go wrong with studs.
Cant go wrong with studs.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 699
Likes: 1
From: Redondo Beach, California
How much harder are they to put on? Theres not much room to work under there. Stupid question... how do you use to tighten them? I hope all the guys that are telling me to put them on have installed b4 
The main differences is studs provide a more even clamping force they have better more consistent tq capabilities. The bolts are just as strong, but because you are screwing them into the block if one hole is harder than another it maynot be tq'd as well or the same as the next one that turns easier etc... Tq specs from ARP are 65 on all the large ones and 22 on the small ones. The sequence is the same as the factory. I hope I explainded it good enought for everyone to understand a little better.
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
only downside is you cant take the heads off with the motor in the car after studs are installed.but studs are better!
"Bolts are specified by Accountants."
"Studs are specified by Engineers."
- Carrol Smith, "Engineer to Win"
Clean the studs well before you use them. Follow ARP's instructions. Make sure you seal the studs that enter the coolant jacket. I recommend more thread sealant than you would normally put on.
You can see some of the head studs in my sig.
Jim
"Studs are specified by Engineers."
- Carrol Smith, "Engineer to Win"
Clean the studs well before you use them. Follow ARP's instructions. Make sure you seal the studs that enter the coolant jacket. I recommend more thread sealant than you would normally put on.
You can see some of the head studs in my sig.
Jim
I will be using the studs over my new bolts, for the reasons stated above. Install is silly, lube with ARP lube and screw in finger tight. That seems easy enough. I was worried about in car removal, but if push comes to shove, then I could do as mentioned and simply unscrew them. Good luck with your choice.
The newer ARP head studs have a provision to use an allen wrench to back them back out, which has already been mentioned. You won't need to do this though to remove the heads on an F Body, as you can still remove the heads with the studs installed, as has also been mentioned.
We always use the ARP head studs in our engine builds, as they do indeed provide a better all around clamping force. Most of our engine builds are for forced induction use, and we feel the studs are the only way for us to go. Bob
We always use the ARP head studs in our engine builds, as they do indeed provide a better all around clamping force. Most of our engine builds are for forced induction use, and we feel the studs are the only way for us to go. Bob
maybe i misunderstood about that....but if the studs are still installed how can you lift the head off without hitting the lip where the windshield wipers are?i remember doing a head swap when i just had regular bolts and the far rear center bolt on the passenger side was a real bear to get out and those were factory.
That's because the bolt has to come up quite a bit to clear the hole. But the stud is only sticking up a little above the head, so you don't have to lift the head very much to clear the stud.