2 step explanation?
12-08-2005, 09:48 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by reocamaro
I can understand some of the badgering dementia's getting but i'd like to thank the people on here that aren't giving him a hard time because I've been wanting to know what two step is and just haven't been able to find the time to do a search on it. Where can I go to find about 2-step for automatics? Would I need an after market torque converter to get the rpm's higher?
12-08-2005, 10:07 AM
#22
Originally Posted by y2khawk
I'm redoing the packaging, adding a couple features, etc.
And like was stated above, it's an igntion based revlimiter that is user adjustable. Can be activated by your choice of inputs, transbrake, foot brake, clutch, etc.
Turn it on, and you can flat foot the throttle while maintaining a constant and adjusable RPM.
Good for consistant launch RPM, building some boost with a clutch/turbo car, quicker spool or limited rpm with an auto/turbo car, same for a blower car, you pick
And like was stated above, it's an igntion based revlimiter that is user adjustable. Can be activated by your choice of inputs, transbrake, foot brake, clutch, etc.
Turn it on, and you can flat foot the throttle while maintaining a constant and adjusable RPM.
Good for consistant launch RPM, building some boost with a clutch/turbo car, quicker spool or limited rpm with an auto/turbo car, same for a blower car, you pick
Originally Posted by quicksilverado
You set the 2-step to desired rpm. Stand on the brake and engage 2-step, then floor the gas pedal. Once the preset rpm is reached it will maintain said rpm and only 1 bank of cylinders will get spark. This helps build boost. When you let off the brake all hell breaks loose. It eliminates the need to try and watch rpms and boost while watching the tree.
the firing order of a LS1 is 18726543...
if i cut power(ground) to half the coils, then it would fire:
1-pause-7-pause-pause-5-pause-3
OR
pause-8-pause-2-6-pause-4-pause-
my question is, say im using the tach output from the PCM, and i get to my set RPM, like say, 3000.
i use a windowswitch like device to cut the trigger signal to the coils (have a transistor in between the coils and the PCM)
would cutting out just one bank be enough to maintain RPM at WOT??
would cutting out one bank be too much?
should i alternate banks? if so, how often?
im sure this would be one of thoes projects that look easy from the outside, but get harder when you goto do it, but it sounds interesting to me...
12-08-2005, 10:19 AM
#24
Should be early next year, march at the latest I'd guess. Depends on lead times once I finalize the board/box/harness etc and source them.
Window switch idea was my first back in '02. Way too slow
More often than not, only one or 2 cylinders are firing at any given time. Always turning off the same cylinder can do bad things to cylinder wall oiling.
The biggest problem is simply dropping the power feed to the coils. Any coil that's charging will fire randomly when power is removed. That's bad.
Window switch idea was my first back in '02. Way too slow
More often than not, only one or 2 cylinders are firing at any given time. Always turning off the same cylinder can do bad things to cylinder wall oiling.
The biggest problem is simply dropping the power feed to the coils. Any coil that's charging will fire randomly when power is removed. That's bad.
12-08-2005, 10:33 AM
#26
Originally Posted by y2khawk
Should be early next year, march at the latest I'd guess. Depends on lead times once I finalize the board/box/harness etc and source them.
Originally Posted by y2khawk
Window switch idea was my first back in '02. Way too slow
More often than not, only one or 2 cylinders are firing at any given time. Always turning off the same cylinder can do bad things to cylinder wall oiling.
The biggest problem is simply dropping the power feed to the coils. Any coil that's charging will fire randomly when power is removed. That's bad.
More often than not, only one or 2 cylinders are firing at any given time. Always turning off the same cylinder can do bad things to cylinder wall oiling.
The biggest problem is simply dropping the power feed to the coils. Any coil that's charging will fire randomly when power is removed. That's bad.
last year, around this time, i picked up a PIC microcontroller starter kit... its like it opened a whole new world to me... i wont kid myself into thinking i can build a window switch right now, but its nice to think about the kind of projects i can do...
right now, my current projects are a indash "gauge" that looks OEM.. basically a VFD like the corvette has, a menu system and some basic info... im adding on a VERY basic boost controller feature (if boost < desired boost keep wastegate bypass 'noid open..lol).. but i hope to expand on it once it works...
in anycase, its given me more appreciation for the work you have into your stuff.. lol.
if you want to let me know a overview of exactly how yours works, that would be cool, if you dont, i fully understand.. my email is MrDude_1@excite.com
12-08-2005, 10:38 AM
#27
Originally Posted by MrDude_1
mmk, please correct me if im wrong, but isnt the coil driving circuitry built into the LS1 coils? the coils always have power, all the PCM does is send a trigger signal.. correct?
Can't give away all my secrets 
12-10-2005, 11:38 AM
#29
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Harlan, i've got your window switch and shift light, i like how your products are set-up.
I just running a 125 shot on an other wise stock M6 car....would it be benefical to run a 2-step on my car?
I just running a 125 shot on an other wise stock M6 car....would it be benefical to run a 2-step on my car?
12-10-2005, 09:49 PM
#30
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so..........I'm reading this thread and wondering to myself....hhmmm-Self, what exactly is the difference between a 2-step and anti-lag? I remember reading about Chris' LS300 that had both a 2-step and anti-lag for the turbo....
