STS 607RWHP 11.01 ET... and a #7 Piston
#22
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I had the same thing happen to me a while back. Getting a little smoke and it overheated. I checked all over adn didnt see any leakin fluids so i figured i fucked the pistons. I took the heads off and my #1 and #8 piston had torn gaskets. I have ARP hardware holdin the heads down and it was a GM MLS gasket. It was small enough to keep any visibal leakage but stil caused it to steam off adn cause it to overheat when it ran low on fluid. I woudl definatly tae teh heads off before u go spending money on it as far as forged stuff goes. Being able to say taht u ran 10's on stock short block is alot cooler then doin it with a forged one. GL man
John
John
#23
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Yeah i would check the head gaskets first, especiall since you have swapped the heads. It sounds alot like a head gasket, you could just be getting coolant in #7 and causing it to missfire and what not tripping that code. Its worth a look before you go crazy on ordering stuff.
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Originally Posted by nitrorocket
Was the car way down on power at the track?? 500 RWHP will do 125 mph. 607 RWHP should be in the 130+ range????? ![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
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#26
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So what motor set up do you plan on running now? Gunna keep the STS or change it at all and up the boost on the new motor? Whats the new plan?
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#27
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Damn man, that kind of sucks. Has anyone inf an F-body broken into the 10's yet? I kind of gave up since your car was running pretty hard, and mine was in 1000 pieces, I figured you'd get there before my car was even running. Now I gotta get back to it!
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Bob: Never had any indications of the 42's maxing out... but it is deff a possibility. I will deff be upgrading the fuel system.
90Cam: yea that was me on the side of 190...
NYSS: Nope... No F-Body has done it yet that I know of. As far as I know the 11.0 is the best for a rear mount F-Bod. And I didnt get my goal of 10's on a stock block
Superman:
I am doing more research now... If I gotta build her out... I will build her for no less then 9's. I am wondering what kind of HP I need out of a rear mount setup to see the 9's.....
Thanks all for your kind words or words of advice... anyone have any suggestions on 347 vs 370 vs 408? I am leaning hard to an Iron block solution.
90Cam: yea that was me on the side of 190...
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NYSS: Nope... No F-Body has done it yet that I know of. As far as I know the 11.0 is the best for a rear mount F-Bod. And I didnt get my goal of 10's on a stock block
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Superman:
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Thanks all for your kind words or words of advice... anyone have any suggestions on 347 vs 370 vs 408? I am leaning hard to an Iron block solution.
#31
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Man thats mess up you where there i care less what anybody else says but hey if your block is gone you can have mine its still in the shop in waco i melted the #7 piston just a fraction of an inch just enough to burn about a half of quart of oil on the trip home from the track the night she went i know money does not grow on trees but i have an ls6 block just sitting around with 30000 miles on it i have been offerd 300 dollars for it but hey a friend needs one so if you want it pm me and we will go from there the block is in good condition could of used for a stroker but went bigger i know you will find some body who will put it back together you will need a rotating assembly and a block plug but its there if you need it man take care
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I am no engine builder, but it sounds like you think you fried the #7 piston/ringlands, but from the description of what happened (coolant getting burned up) it sounds more like a bad head gasket. Does burning up the #7 piston generally cause coolant to get into the cylinder?
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Steel.... I am sure hoping that is what it is. But I am expecting the worst... hopping for the best. The debate I am in is do I spend the money to fix it.... or just replace it all? I am not sure what would need to be done to trouble shoot and fix it correctly. Argh... and I am in FL for a month and cant touch my baby!!!
Outlawz... thanks for the offer man!
Outlawz... thanks for the offer man!
#37
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Why not an LS2/L92 alum block, stock crank, good rods/pistons, and some heads designed for a big bore with stock LS6 intake/ported TB. I bet that will get you where you want to be and be able to rev it to the upper limits of a hydraulic roller keeping costs in check.
LS1/LS6 blocks beyond 700hp+ have proven to lose ring seal after some miles... W2W and a few others on here have found that out.
LS1/LS6 blocks beyond 700hp+ have proven to lose ring seal after some miles... W2W and a few others on here have found that out.
#38
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Low compression 408(-32cc pistons, patriot stage3 heads, and z06 cam) with a 76 turbo here. Last time I went to the track I ate my "built tranny" on the first pass. Scheduled to dyno friday at CAM. Then off to the track. The car easily pulls 1.5 60s. Ran 14s in 2 gears hehe. Just need to keep a tranny together should walk into the tens. Good luck. If you can LS2 your next build. Cant beat it. Id like to see the differences in turbo sizes for the larger motored cars, best for a 408 on a sts(70 or 76). Well good luck with the build.