Vortech SC on LS1
Hopefully the street guys won't be changing plugs more than once or twice a year. Some guys go a couple of years, but I would change them at least once a year in a street car. Takes me an hour to do them on a street car... 15 minutes for 6 of them, and 45 minutes to do #6 and #8.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: California
So from what you guys are saying, go with the 8 PSI boost with Aftercooler? I just hope my stock engine can handle that amount of boost (have almost 100K on the motor). Are there any other mods I should look into on my daily driver =/. I just wish I had the $$ to do the whole car *sigh*
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 7
From: Ft. Irwin, California (But Virginia is home)
I've been researching my a$$ off on this topic lately. Cough up the dough and get the aftercooler. It is 1/2 the price when everything is bought together, vs getting the aftercooler at a later date. Also, Vortech can plug and play components for you. I have a cam and other goodies and was scared to run 9PSI, aftercooled or not. They can offer the aftercooler with a 6lb blower (the limit is they won't provide a tune and the warranty would be 1 vs 3 years.)
Anyhow, if your car is spending the majority of it's life on the street, low intake temp is what you want. This is the purpose of the aftercooler. Of course a good fuel system is needed too....but the kit covers this, provided your car's not heavily modded.
Anyhow....what's cheaper; The $500-1K saved on the intercooler....or NOT buying an engine rebuild? Also, there are many sponsors offering smoking great deals on the Vortech aftercooled kit now. I got some kick-*** quotes. To respect their wishes, I will not post them on-line. But call around. Deals are available.
As for me....I got an offer I can't refuse on an STS kit. (Hoping to have this puppy installed in the next 2-weeks
)So, this is my route. The Vortech aftercooled kit was my other choice.
Anyhow, if your car is spending the majority of it's life on the street, low intake temp is what you want. This is the purpose of the aftercooler. Of course a good fuel system is needed too....but the kit covers this, provided your car's not heavily modded.
Anyhow....what's cheaper; The $500-1K saved on the intercooler....or NOT buying an engine rebuild? Also, there are many sponsors offering smoking great deals on the Vortech aftercooled kit now. I got some kick-*** quotes. To respect their wishes, I will not post them on-line. But call around. Deals are available.
As for me....I got an offer I can't refuse on an STS kit. (Hoping to have this puppy installed in the next 2-weeks
)So, this is my route. The Vortech aftercooled kit was my other choice.
Originally Posted by Schantin
They can offer the aftercooler with a 6lb blower (the limit is they won't provide a tune and the warranty would be 1 vs 3 years.)
I'm lucky that my kit works: because I'm outside the USA there is no warranty!!! Of course they write it only in the documents you receive with the kit...
Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
well it will allow you to run 9 lbs and you'll probably pick up about 80 horsepower. that's worth it to me.
I agree that a cooler will lower the temperature also when not under boost but the vortech setup should have an additional fan. Once you are in stuck in traffic the system has no chances to cool the charge air.
That's why I wrote I would prefer a blow-through setup: the recirculation through the bypass valve heats up the air too much. With a blowh through system the air you don't need is just discharged and the new air will cool down blower + piping.
Got Me SOM You wrote about your IAT at WOT: where is your IAT sensor installed?
Last edited by tici; Feb 5, 2006 at 08:10 AM.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 590
Likes: 0
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Originally Posted by tici
Will the engine survive that? How long? I prefere to keep the engine alive than having 80 HP more. With my power I already toasted the 4L60E, what will I brake with 80 HP more?
If you're not making 500rwhp with boost, then the setup needs to be changed or not purchased in the first place.
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Hey Tici you ought to see the setup that SJH built for his Vortech to get rid of the bypass valve etc... He built another blade simular to the one on your TB and eliminated the bypass setup it was pretty trick for a DIY's. Was going to do it myself, but I am going to move to a bigger blower etc...
Originally Posted by Drewstein
If you're not making 500rwhp with boost, then the setup needs to be changed or not purchased in the first place.
Hark-God has spoken..
tici its in the stock location
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 590
Likes: 0
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
Hark-God has spoken..
tici its in the stock location
I mean why not do a H/C setup for less and make 500rwhp? Lets help each other save some money. Or maybe cam and spray? There are several options that are more sane than spending for a blower and getting crap power. If you're going for boost, set the goal at 500...
#1 nobody asked for your friendly opinion, the guy is asking about a Vortech Supercharger. Do you have one? NO? Didn't think so, just you should shut the **** up right there.. Post my dynograph? OMG what are you one of those kids that dyno races?? How bout we linem up instead ?
Oh and didnt notice all the h/c setups are making 500 to the tire now..
Got any times for supposed stock head/stock bottom end 641 rear wheel car?
Oh and didnt notice all the h/c setups are making 500 to the tire now..
Got any times for supposed stock head/stock bottom end 641 rear wheel car?
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 590
Likes: 0
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
#1 nobody asked for your friendly opinion, the guy is asking about a Vortech Supercharger. Do you have one? NO? Didn't think so, just you should shut the **** up right there.. Post my dynograph? OMG what are you one of those kids that dyno races?? How bout we linem up instead ?
Oh and didnt notice all the h/c setups are making 500 to the tire now..
Got any times for supposed stock head/stock bottom end 641 rear wheel car?
Oh and didnt notice all the h/c setups are making 500 to the tire now..
Got any times for supposed stock head/stock bottom end 641 rear wheel car?
Why are you so mad at the world? Jealous or something? Kind of juvenile if you ask me. Since when is it a bad thing to watch out for other members and their pocket books?
If we lined them up, you would get worked. Bottom line. But I didn't come on and say I was faster, I said you better make xxx numbers or you're wasting your $$. Take your mullett and negativity to LS1.com.
I know several cam only cars putting down 450rwhp and a few H/C cars at the 500rwhp mark. They all have headers and such as well. Maybe we can actually make power out here...
mad ?? jealous?? of you??? how bout commenting in a thread that pertains to the subject . You are the one that made that stupid response..
I wasn't aware ls1tech was looking for someone to save us from spending too much. Oh and LS1tech members carry wallets not pocket books..
Run your car not your mouth Drewstein.. Trap speed is more of an indicator of a cars true power.
See ya later dyno racer, dyno #'s don't mean jackshit.
how bout commenting in a thread that pertains to the subject . You are the one that made that stupid response..I wasn't aware ls1tech was looking for someone to save us from spending too much.
Oh and LS1tech members carry wallets not pocket books..Run your car not your mouth Drewstein.. Trap speed is more of an indicator of a cars true power.
See ya later dyno racer, dyno #'s don't mean jackshit.
Originally Posted by Drewstein
If you dynoed 410rwhp with your current setup, then that's less than what you would make on just a cam swap. Something tells me you spent more on the blower too. Practical? I would say not in this case. If you're not making 500rwhp with boost, then the setup needs to be changed or not purchased in the first place.
The police here considers Nitro a drug because it makes you dizzy when you brathe it. So if they catch you with a bottle in the trunk they bust you butt big time! That's not a joke
So I had the choice between a bored+stroked engine or a SC...
I went with the 6 PSI kit because if I **** up the engine I'm in troubles: spare parts cost here 2-3 times more than over there so I wanted a "safe" setup.
Still a bad choice? It's a 98 LS1 with stock internals, stock exaust and stock intake. The Vortech kit is rated 398 HP and 403 torque for non ram-air cars: it's the first time I see a better result as what vendors advertise, is it really that bad?
Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
tici its in the stock location
I bet that with the cooler it's not going that low
We saw +30 RWHP adding the water-alcohol injection. Only because of the cooling. Same timing (17*), same AFR.
[/QUOTE]Does the aftercooled kit require the trimming of the OEM SS hood?
[QUOTE]
Yes it does both aftercooled or not. Drewstein- I have herd and seen many of these same claims and I am not saying that it can't be done it just doesn't happen very often down here maybe our dynos read less? Especially in stock bottom end cars etc... I have personally seen a HC do 440rwhp through a 12(4:10's) and a 6 spd. But this is not an everyday occurance and now a S/C car the numbers are more consitent I have offered up help to a few people and they have all netted excellent numbers. What you are proposing is that everyone will do what you or a very select few have done and that is not reasonable and is misleading to people that are less mechanicly inclined. I am happy with my setup and if this person want to know my honest opinion. It is a great kit that has a lot of potential. Would I purchase the aftercooler? Personally I would. Good luck with your decision brother!
Jeff
[QUOTE]
Yes it does both aftercooled or not. Drewstein- I have herd and seen many of these same claims and I am not saying that it can't be done it just doesn't happen very often down here maybe our dynos read less? Especially in stock bottom end cars etc... I have personally seen a HC do 440rwhp through a 12(4:10's) and a 6 spd. But this is not an everyday occurance and now a S/C car the numbers are more consitent I have offered up help to a few people and they have all netted excellent numbers. What you are proposing is that everyone will do what you or a very select few have done and that is not reasonable and is misleading to people that are less mechanicly inclined. I am happy with my setup and if this person want to know my honest opinion. It is a great kit that has a lot of potential. Would I purchase the aftercooler? Personally I would. Good luck with your decision brother!
Jeff
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: California
Yes, but can the stock engine handle the boost of 8-9 PSI, that's all ZI'm worried about. I might now be able to get it dyno-tuned for a while, would the hand-held be enough to 'tone' it down?
Yes, but can the stock engine handle the boost of 8-9 PSI, that's all ZI'm worried about. I might now be able to get it dyno-tuned for a while, would the hand-held be enough to 'tone' it down?
Drewstein- Also you are talking peak power, but lets look at the power under the curve for equal powered FI car and a NA car with simular numbers. Peak is fine for a drag car, but more power under the whole RPM range will always be a lot nicer (faster) on the street and will be competitive at the track also. Good luck to you guys with what ever you decide let me know if you need help on your Vortech setups I have a little experience with it particularly.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 590
Likes: 0
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Originally Posted by tici
Still a bad choice? It's a 98 LS1 with stock internals, stock exaust and stock intake. The Vortech kit is rated 398 HP and 403 torque for non ram-air cars: it's the first time I see a better result as what vendors advertise, is it really that bad?
