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View Poll Results: Which option should i do?
First, buy D1SC then next summer get the suspension and rear end
17
51.52%
First get the suspension and rear end then next summer get the D1SC
14
42.42%
other? suggest you opinion
2
6.06%
Voters: 33. You may not vote on this poll
Future Procharger Build ideas, suggestions??
Future Procharger Build ideas, suggestions?? I have already done my research and I decided that I am going to do D1SC setup, the problem is I am a full time college student and only have the funding to do modifications when i work in the summer. Therefore i can not do everything at once, what do you guys think as far as what i should do first??
1.) D1SC kit and a stronger clutch, then next summer do the suspension work and get a rear end that can handle some hard launches and the power
2.) Get the suspension and rear end that is strong enough for the procharger this summer and then actually pick up the D1SC next summer
3.) other ideas
My car is not really a daily driver except in the summer, I don't have it at school and maybe put 2500 miles on it during the 9 months i am in college. I would really like to have the procharger this summer but I don't want to break something and not be able to afford to fix it. THIS CAR WILL NOT SEE THE TRACK TILL I HAVE CAR COMPLETELY FINISHED, so the rear end is not really a must but yes i know it is strongly advised when you have that kind of power
EDIT: UNLESS ONE OF SPONSORS WOULD LIKE TO USE MY CAR AS A PROJECT????
1.) D1SC kit and a stronger clutch, then next summer do the suspension work and get a rear end that can handle some hard launches and the power
2.) Get the suspension and rear end that is strong enough for the procharger this summer and then actually pick up the D1SC next summer
3.) other ideas
My car is not really a daily driver except in the summer, I don't have it at school and maybe put 2500 miles on it during the 9 months i am in college. I would really like to have the procharger this summer but I don't want to break something and not be able to afford to fix it. THIS CAR WILL NOT SEE THE TRACK TILL I HAVE CAR COMPLETELY FINISHED, so the rear end is not really a must but yes i know it is strongly advised when you have that kind of power
EDIT: UNLESS ONE OF SPONSORS WOULD LIKE TO USE MY CAR AS A PROJECT????
Last edited by ChaseSS; Feb 8, 2006 at 02:56 PM.
I'd get the ProCharger, clutch and subframe connectors, if you can swing it on this year. Since it is not your daily driver, you will be taking a chance on the rear going out. As long as you don't run Nittos or a tire even stickier, the rear has a chance of survival. Bob
I went ahead and got the Procharger first and built the rest as it broke. Of course my parts are a bit more limited than yours.
I have grenaded 2 of these crappy IRS center sections waiting for my parts to come in from Australia!
I have grenaded 2 of these crappy IRS center sections waiting for my parts to come in from Australia!
Go with the Pro Charger 1st. and supporting mods. Take it easy and you should be fine on the rear. Mine has been holding up so far, but it has not seen any real hard times. Going easy till swap or failure. You will defiantly need to up grade the clutch, had a spec II prior to F/I and it would not hold at the top end.
I have to say the opposite, but I'm not of the instant gratification generation.
Get a good rear/clutch/fuel system'exhaust in the car first and pick up a tuning package and learn it. Having 600rwhp and stock driveline is like running into a willing penthouse model and your 'equipment' fails
Most people that buy the blower first and do the rest last usually give up before its done. If you are just looking for dyno numbers then it doesnt really matter, but if you want to hit the track a lot you need good driveline parts..
Get a good rear/clutch/fuel system'exhaust in the car first and pick up a tuning package and learn it. Having 600rwhp and stock driveline is like running into a willing penthouse model and your 'equipment' fails
Most people that buy the blower first and do the rest last usually give up before its done. If you are just looking for dyno numbers then it doesnt really matter, but if you want to hit the track a lot you need good driveline parts..
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I am not real big on going to the track and I won't have DR's on the car (just goodyear F1's) but imagine once i get the build done i will be going to the track a lot. thanks for suggestions guys
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do you guys think that I will break stuff just being on the street with just normal goodyear F1 tires? if i do any street racing its usually from a roll and would 450rwhp really take a toll on it??
If you are just street cruising it you can get away with a decent clutch and a stock rear for a long time with alot of power. You can even get away with it at the track every once in a while, just make you have a way to get home from the track in case the rear lets go.
I just like a strong drivetrain and it lets me concentrate on getting the car down the track, having the 'uh oh stock rear' in the back of your head at the track sucks
450-500rwhp will take a ton of street abuse if you are somewhat careful.
I just like a strong drivetrain and it lets me concentrate on getting the car down the track, having the 'uh oh stock rear' in the back of your head at the track sucks
450-500rwhp will take a ton of street abuse if you are somewhat careful.
If you are just street cruising it you can get away with a decent clutch and a stock rear for a long time with alot of power. You can even get away with it at the track every once in a while, just make you have a way to get home from the track in case the rear lets go.
I just like a strong drivetrain and it lets me concentrate on getting the car down the track, having the 'uh oh stock rear' in the back of your head at the track sucks
450-500rwhp will take a ton of street abuse if you are somewhat careful.
I just like a strong drivetrain and it lets me concentrate on getting the car down the track, having the 'uh oh stock rear' in the back of your head at the track sucks
450-500rwhp will take a ton of street abuse if you are somewhat careful.
My car never had any issues on the street. All my problems came from the track. at both 550hp and 600hp levels. Of course my car is setup completely different so its not a fair comparison. But my car takes the street abuse on street tires just fine. It just spins the tires lots thats all!
I ran a year on BFG DR, 150 shot of spray, and HD clutch on the stock rearend. I also had this car as a daily driver. My rearend lasted that long because I didn't dump the clutch at 6000rpm. My spray kicked it at about 3500rpm. I would launch the car between 2500-3300rpm. The car would be rolling when the torque surge from the nitrous kicked in. And my car dynoed at 465whp and 509-tq. You getting a Procharger will be easier on the rearend as long as you don't do the clutch dump.
IF you take it easy on the launches and don't spend too much time binding up the rear on corners or launches, the 10 bolt will hold, but it's not definite.
I'm more in the line of KP's thinking. I would do the rear and other supporting mods 1st. No sense in blowing something up inorder to make an extra 100+ HP. It really sucks when you can't even drive the car with all the mods on it, if you break something that can't be easily afforded. Then what good is the Blower kit?
So, I'm voting to do supporting mods 1st. It'll pay off in the long run and will allow you to have a little more fun with what you already have.
Also look into doing an 02+ Z06 cam. That grind is in-expenisve, and performs well with FI. You can start with smaller changes like that to increase power now, and then increase power even more when you do get the blower.
I'm more in the line of KP's thinking. I would do the rear and other supporting mods 1st. No sense in blowing something up inorder to make an extra 100+ HP. It really sucks when you can't even drive the car with all the mods on it, if you break something that can't be easily afforded. Then what good is the Blower kit?
So, I'm voting to do supporting mods 1st. It'll pay off in the long run and will allow you to have a little more fun with what you already have.
Also look into doing an 02+ Z06 cam. That grind is in-expenisve, and performs well with FI. You can start with smaller changes like that to increase power now, and then increase power even more when you do get the blower.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Long Island NY
Originally Posted by ChaseSS
do you guys think that I will break stuff just being on the street with just normal goodyear F1 tires? if i do any street racing its usually from a roll and would 450rwhp really take a toll on it??
Suspension and brakes first.
- handling and brakes immediately increase drivability
- allows you to hone your skills and get used to the platform
Subframe connectors.
- make the suspension work its best
Tranny and coolant upgrades.
- Like the Germans: overbuild and understress
Engine & any electronics.
- a blower-ready motor will still be a blast to drive
Rearend.
- hate to have a rearend blow at speed, you may not be around to complete your project
Procharger or Vortech
- finally, but you don't have to worry about anything blowing up under the power
Jim
PS This sequence also has value if you ever have to delay your project. All prior steps are valuable and safe on their own.
- handling and brakes immediately increase drivability
- allows you to hone your skills and get used to the platform
Subframe connectors.
- make the suspension work its best
Tranny and coolant upgrades.
- Like the Germans: overbuild and understress
Engine & any electronics.
- a blower-ready motor will still be a blast to drive
Rearend.
- hate to have a rearend blow at speed, you may not be around to complete your project
Procharger or Vortech
- finally, but you don't have to worry about anything blowing up under the power
Jim
PS This sequence also has value if you ever have to delay your project. All prior steps are valuable and safe on their own.
Going with the s/c first would be more fun. My buddy ran his @ 470rw with the stock drive train on the street for 2 years & was fine. Then he took it to the track & found out how bad the setup was. He made 2 runs & stopped before it broke.
I went the other route & built the car to take it first. But I was running low 12s regularly at the track on the stock motor so I needed it....
I went the other route & built the car to take it first. But I was running low 12s regularly at the track on the stock motor so I needed it....