how many of you are running an engine girdle??? 
how many of you are running an engine girdle???
W2W made the girdle that is on my motor.
It really depends what kind of power you are going to be making and what block you are going to be using. I think that for an aluminum motor people probably start to see some movement around the 1000hp level, so it's probably a good idea if that is what you are looking at. On an iron motor ~1200hp is starting to push it without a girdle.
Personally, I think it is cheap insurance on a high dollar motor. If it takes internal stresses off of other parts then it is well worth the money spent...although I wouldn't bother on anything below the 750hp level.
It really depends what kind of power you are going to be making and what block you are going to be using. I think that for an aluminum motor people probably start to see some movement around the 1000hp level, so it's probably a good idea if that is what you are looking at. On an iron motor ~1200hp is starting to push it without a girdle.
Personally, I think it is cheap insurance on a high dollar motor. If it takes internal stresses off of other parts then it is well worth the money spent...although I wouldn't bother on anything below the 750hp level.
Originally Posted by TexasLT4
Excuse my ignorance, but what is an engine girdle?
I use the same one as Scott on my 352ci iron block engine. I have seen signs of things moving on gen3 engines in the 1,000hp area.
Does it really need it? I have never ran without one on high hp engines, although I'm sure somebody does.
Kurt
Does it really need it? I have never ran without one on high hp engines, although I'm sure somebody does.
Kurt
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The one on e-bay is not the same as our's. The girdle we use would be around 2,000.00 by the time we get it installed on the engine.
Kurt
Kurt
Originally Posted by BLk01SS
How much do you guys sell one for Kurt? I've seen the ones on ebay but no where else until now.
Originally Posted by Tiago
the whole thing ties in better then the other one.
i didnt think mike and steve were running a girtle on their iron block though.
I am pretty sure that Mike and Steve are running the girdle setup from W2W, although I am not sure if Mike is using it on the CE.
Folks, don't be suprised at the prices...you get what you pay for. When you get something from W2W you can assure that not only is it installed and setup perfectly, but it has also been tested on the dyno. You aren't buying hype...you are buying something that has stood up to real world testing!
Folks, don't be suprised at the prices...you get what you pay for. When you get something from W2W you can assure that not only is it installed and setup perfectly, but it has also been tested on the dyno. You aren't buying hype...you are buying something that has stood up to real world testing!
Originally Posted by 427
The Formula has a girdle on its iron 404 engine, the CE has no girdle on a LS2 6.0 engine.
Kurt
Kurt
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 604
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From: Loganville, GA
$2000 for a girdle? This one is $525 shipped and I've heard they're pretty good.... You were talking installed though... But still.. It shouldn't be too horrendous of a DIY yourself job if you have a garage/place to drop your engine, should it?
http://www.dmperformance.org/new/Index.html
http://www.dmperformance.org/new/Index.html
Last edited by mahhddgtp; Mar 3, 2006 at 12:13 PM.
Originally Posted by mahhddgtp
$2000 for a girdle? This one is $525 shipped and I've heard they're pretty good.... You were talking installed though... But still.. It shouldn't be too horrendous of a DIY yourself job if you have a garage/place to drop your engine, should it?
http://www.dmperformance.org/new/Index.html
http://www.dmperformance.org/new/Index.html
Like everything else, this is a case of you get what you pay for...there are reasons that some things are more expensive then others. There aren't a lot of LSx based motors that are making 1200+hp, but from what I have seen most of the ones that are come from W2W.
This conversation probably isn't relevant to a lot of people, since there are only a handful of people on here that will ever come close to 1000hp. For the people that will, my recommendation would be to go with the people that have done it most and repeatably.
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 344
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From: Michigan
Correct, producing the girdle isn't that expensive and we actually produce it in house.
The labor to install it in a correct manner is what pushes the cost way up and is one of the reasons we prefer not to sell it as a retail piece. It takes quite a bit of time as well as knowing what to do.
The labor to install it in a correct manner is what pushes the cost way up and is one of the reasons we prefer not to sell it as a retail piece. It takes quite a bit of time as well as knowing what to do.
Last edited by Kevin@W2W; Mar 3, 2006 at 02:01 PM.
Mike and Steve do have the only one that we ever did without steel main caps.
The process is machine the top of the cold rolled steel main caps on a surface grinder to equal all the heights within .0002 on the height of the caps, this is what the girdle will sit on. Then install ARP studs that are made for this girdle(longer length). Install caps and measure from oilpan rail to main caps on 4 corners. Machine oilpan rail of block flat to equalize dimension at all four corners, record dimension of step.
Machine step in girdle to .005 deeper than differential on cap measurment. Install girdle on maincaps (at this point a .005 feeler gage will fit between pan rail and girdle).
install oilpan bolts through girdle to block and torque mains and oilpan bolts.
Align bore main bearing saddles, and hone to factory specs.
Cut o-ring groove in girdle at block interface for .102 buna cord to seal the girdle to lower block surface.
Before final engine assembly install o-ring cord in girdle blockside, lower girdle to pan seals with factory gasket.
Start engine and add BOOST!!!
Kurt
The process is machine the top of the cold rolled steel main caps on a surface grinder to equal all the heights within .0002 on the height of the caps, this is what the girdle will sit on. Then install ARP studs that are made for this girdle(longer length). Install caps and measure from oilpan rail to main caps on 4 corners. Machine oilpan rail of block flat to equalize dimension at all four corners, record dimension of step.
Machine step in girdle to .005 deeper than differential on cap measurment. Install girdle on maincaps (at this point a .005 feeler gage will fit between pan rail and girdle).
install oilpan bolts through girdle to block and torque mains and oilpan bolts.
Align bore main bearing saddles, and hone to factory specs.
Cut o-ring groove in girdle at block interface for .102 buna cord to seal the girdle to lower block surface.
Before final engine assembly install o-ring cord in girdle blockside, lower girdle to pan seals with factory gasket.
Start engine and add BOOST!!!
Kurt