346 Build-up WHOLE LOTTA ?'s
#41
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DAMMIT!
Okay.. thanks, question answered!
Thanks, man...
I think I remembered you mentioning it before, but I couldn't remember whether there was in fact a user here or not with a 346 stock crank LOW CR.
Okay.. thanks, question answered!
Thanks, man...
I think I remembered you mentioning it before, but I couldn't remember whether there was in fact a user here or not with a 346 stock crank LOW CR.
#42
I am hoping to have the car ready to fire up soon. I fianally have 90% of the parts I have been waiting for. The BS3 should be here Monday. I just have to get the 4L80E bulit, order a verter, put he 346 together, fab up the cold side pipes, istall the Nasty N8 fuel tank and fuels system, and then tune it. Damn I have alot of work ahead of me.
#43
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Man doing some research and I think I know why my turbo spools like old people f@#king...its either a 1.01 a/r or a 1.15 a/r....still you'd think an LS1 could spool this biotch no problem.
I'll have to crawl under the car tomorrow to pull the PN off it to see which it is.
I'll have to crawl under the car tomorrow to pull the PN off it to see which it is.
#44
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Hey, stop talking like that about that turbo. I have the same w/1.01 ar (almost the same, 94mm) Of course mine is still sitting in the corner with all the other parts
You're making me think I made a bad choice
You're making me think I made a bad choice
#45
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Don't put too much thought into what I posted, my turbo knowledge is small. Most likely its my tuning and retarded big stage 3 blower grind that is keeping my GT42 a spoolin slowly.
SuperZ has a GT42-76 and his car spools pretty fast from the street vid he posted.
I'm just thinking of buying this MP T70 because its a freakin steal and its new in box, guy needs the money
SuperZ has a GT42-76 and his car spools pretty fast from the street vid he posted.
I'm just thinking of buying this MP T70 because its a freakin steal and its new in box, guy needs the money
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Alright… I wanted to update this thread in case someone had some more input for me. I’ve arrived at several decisions… Not to stroke anyone, but I’M SURE many LS1-ers that want to build up their motor, 346, can benefit from some good info here, not just me. I’ve learned my fair share by some lurking, too, around here.
1. I’m keeping my stock displacement for a low CR forged set-up for several reasons. Most importantly, the turbo I will use will be most complemented by it from what I understand so far. Also, I’d like to keep my stock block and crank… I won’t be shooting for numbers that would compromise these components.
2. I’m giving up on optimizing my MPT-70… I love this little turbo, but I’d hate to drive all the way to my installer/builder six hours away, leave my car for what I’m sure will be quite a while, and find out AFTER that my turbo’s getting choked while there is more power to be had on my stock PCM… I’d rather be limited by that than by the turbo I use (big $$$ difference between the two… Those BS3’s ain’t cheap!)… I’ll be going with a T-76GTS… Shooting for 700 rwhp that I know this one will do, not so sure about the T-70. Even if the T-70 does it, curve CAN’T look too good I’m sure… Some drop off at the end of the powerband? I dunno… No one here’s maxed one out yet on a 346.
3. It seems that everyone that builds a stroker/turbo set-up these days is experiencing overheating issues… Why is this? The increased displacement? After installing my turbo, I NEVER experienced ANY overheating issues whatsoever… Even after one of my fans stopped working completely (the front pusher), I didn’t notice for days until I started overheating in traffic when one hour of idling at a dead stop/occasional crawl had passed. I was relieved to discover my broken fan… Replaced it with a Flex-a-Lite… Problem solved… Stock radiator and a 160 T-Stat… Turbo blanket on the turbo exhaust housing, a healthy quantity of Dex-Cool, and the A/C could be on all day. With a forged set-up (cammed, if it makes a difference, too), should any of this change? Will water temp’s be altered or pushed more in some way that isn’t right now? Might the turbo create more heat? Enough to change things and have me overheating? What’s the proverbial straw here (or combination)? What is causing some of you to overheat while I never do (even some stock motors)???
4. My PTS equipped A2A FMIC will probably not be safe at those levels (~700 rwhp)… Will a decent Meth-injection kit out there now be enough so I don’t have to chop up my front end with something bigger and lose my fog lights to prevent high intake charge temps/pre-detonation, etc?
5. Currently have a 38mm WG… Will this handle the new boost?
6. Parts list:
Pistons , Rods, 6.0 Ported Heads, ARP Hardware: From a sponsor that gives me a good deal, still need to decide on types/brands… 8.5 CR
Custom Cam: Speed Shop (Revxtreme)
Fuel upgrades: Speed Shop’s decision
Crankcase ventilation: oil pump/PCV/vents/catch cans to be addressed by the shop
Spec 3+: Any feedback on this? It’s supposed to handle 800 lb ft. of torque easily, and my factory clutch cylinder works GREAT… Never had a problem.
Gears: 3.42 swap for my 12-bolt (Have 3.73’s… no top end)
Turbo: PT-76GTS, and Tial BOV
Is this a good direction?
Opinions, please?
Thanks.
1. I’m keeping my stock displacement for a low CR forged set-up for several reasons. Most importantly, the turbo I will use will be most complemented by it from what I understand so far. Also, I’d like to keep my stock block and crank… I won’t be shooting for numbers that would compromise these components.
2. I’m giving up on optimizing my MPT-70… I love this little turbo, but I’d hate to drive all the way to my installer/builder six hours away, leave my car for what I’m sure will be quite a while, and find out AFTER that my turbo’s getting choked while there is more power to be had on my stock PCM… I’d rather be limited by that than by the turbo I use (big $$$ difference between the two… Those BS3’s ain’t cheap!)… I’ll be going with a T-76GTS… Shooting for 700 rwhp that I know this one will do, not so sure about the T-70. Even if the T-70 does it, curve CAN’T look too good I’m sure… Some drop off at the end of the powerband? I dunno… No one here’s maxed one out yet on a 346.
3. It seems that everyone that builds a stroker/turbo set-up these days is experiencing overheating issues… Why is this? The increased displacement? After installing my turbo, I NEVER experienced ANY overheating issues whatsoever… Even after one of my fans stopped working completely (the front pusher), I didn’t notice for days until I started overheating in traffic when one hour of idling at a dead stop/occasional crawl had passed. I was relieved to discover my broken fan… Replaced it with a Flex-a-Lite… Problem solved… Stock radiator and a 160 T-Stat… Turbo blanket on the turbo exhaust housing, a healthy quantity of Dex-Cool, and the A/C could be on all day. With a forged set-up (cammed, if it makes a difference, too), should any of this change? Will water temp’s be altered or pushed more in some way that isn’t right now? Might the turbo create more heat? Enough to change things and have me overheating? What’s the proverbial straw here (or combination)? What is causing some of you to overheat while I never do (even some stock motors)???
4. My PTS equipped A2A FMIC will probably not be safe at those levels (~700 rwhp)… Will a decent Meth-injection kit out there now be enough so I don’t have to chop up my front end with something bigger and lose my fog lights to prevent high intake charge temps/pre-detonation, etc?
5. Currently have a 38mm WG… Will this handle the new boost?
6. Parts list:
Pistons , Rods, 6.0 Ported Heads, ARP Hardware: From a sponsor that gives me a good deal, still need to decide on types/brands… 8.5 CR
Custom Cam: Speed Shop (Revxtreme)
Fuel upgrades: Speed Shop’s decision
Crankcase ventilation: oil pump/PCV/vents/catch cans to be addressed by the shop
Spec 3+: Any feedback on this? It’s supposed to handle 800 lb ft. of torque easily, and my factory clutch cylinder works GREAT… Never had a problem.
Gears: 3.42 swap for my 12-bolt (Have 3.73’s… no top end)
Turbo: PT-76GTS, and Tial BOV
Is this a good direction?
Opinions, please?
Thanks.
#51
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Good points. Some of the same thinking I'm doing now too.
I have bought some Diamond pistons (-8.6cc) and 6.0 heads that are being ported with bigger valves (2.05 or 2.08)..porters decision.
I decided to go with aftermarket rods instead of just rod bolts. By the time you add rods bolts and have the new ones setup on old rods you've spent almost $200..what's another $300-400 if you want reliability at high hp?
WG will either be a 48 or 50mm. Haven't fully decided on brand but down to 2.
Cam is a Comp Cam XER 228/224 and 588/581 on a 115 +4 with hardened rods and Pro Magnum rockers
Also still waiting on fuel system. I have 50Lb injectors but am thinking about going bigger before I even get started.
Still waiting for the money tree to come into bloom to finish the rest
I have bought some Diamond pistons (-8.6cc) and 6.0 heads that are being ported with bigger valves (2.05 or 2.08)..porters decision.
I decided to go with aftermarket rods instead of just rod bolts. By the time you add rods bolts and have the new ones setup on old rods you've spent almost $200..what's another $300-400 if you want reliability at high hp?
WG will either be a 48 or 50mm. Haven't fully decided on brand but down to 2.
Cam is a Comp Cam XER 228/224 and 588/581 on a 115 +4 with hardened rods and Pro Magnum rockers
Also still waiting on fuel system. I have 50Lb injectors but am thinking about going bigger before I even get started.
Still waiting for the money tree to come into bloom to finish the rest
#53
If you are running pump and shooting for 650-700RWHP I would go with a max of around 8.0:1 compression if you are sticking with 94 octane and target about 15-17#'s boost. This should easily hit 650RWHP. Meth is great insurance on a setup like this too.
LS6 cam is a good choice and will help with spool versus a bigarse cam
GM MLS gaskets would hold and seal well
6L heads are great as well. Patriot has a nice ported 72cc version. A good spring (double) would be required to prevent valve float. I would consider a thicker deck head though like an AFR, Dart, ETP etc if you are really going to push it
LS6 cam is a good choice and will help with spool versus a bigarse cam
GM MLS gaskets would hold and seal well
6L heads are great as well. Patriot has a nice ported 72cc version. A good spring (double) would be required to prevent valve float. I would consider a thicker deck head though like an AFR, Dart, ETP etc if you are really going to push it
Last edited by CHRISPY; 05-09-2006 at 12:28 PM.
#54
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80superbu, that engine combo is basically the same as what i'm running in the car right now, same pistons, forged rods(6.125) and a different cam(233/244 .578 .602 115lsa) Ported and polished 6.0 truck heads with 1.57 SS exhaust valves, stock sized intake.
Bboy, why not push the T70 for all its worth? Be nice to see someone get some good data with it. What makes you think your intercooler won't hack 700? What did the kit makers say its good up to?
Bboy, why not push the T70 for all its worth? Be nice to see someone get some good data with it. What makes you think your intercooler won't hack 700? What did the kit makers say its good up to?
#55
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Originally Posted by CHRISPY
If you are running pump and shooting for 650-700RWHP I would go with a max of around 8.0:1 compression if you are sticking with 94 octane and target about 15-17#'s boost. This should easily hit 650RWHP. Meth is great insurance on a setup like this too.
LS6 cam is a good choice and will help with spool versus a bigarse cam
GM MLS gaskets would hold and seal well
6L heads are great as well. Patriot has a nice ported 72cc version. A good spring (double) would be required to prevent valve float. I would consider a thicker deck head though like an AFR, Dart, ETP etc if you are really going to push it
LS6 cam is a good choice and will help with spool versus a bigarse cam
GM MLS gaskets would hold and seal well
6L heads are great as well. Patriot has a nice ported 72cc version. A good spring (double) would be required to prevent valve float. I would consider a thicker deck head though like an AFR, Dart, ETP etc if you are really going to push it
So, my CC918 springs would crap out at 15+ psi? That suks!
#56
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Originally Posted by frcefed98
80superbu, that engine combo is basically the same as what i'm running in the car right now, same pistons, forged rods(6.125) and a different cam(233/244 .578 .602 115lsa) Ported and polished 6.0 truck heads with 1.57 SS exhaust valves, stock sized intake.
Bboy, why not push the T70 for all its worth? Be nice to see someone get some good data with it. What makes you think your intercooler won't hack 700? What did the kit makers say its good up to?
Bboy, why not push the T70 for all its worth? Be nice to see someone get some good data with it. What makes you think your intercooler won't hack 700? What did the kit makers say its good up to?
Man, I don't want to be the pioneer for the T-70... Can somebody do this please? J/K I REALLY want to get this right the first time... The T-70 is SO iffy right now...
Any thoughts on the overheating question?
#57
I can agree, the BS3 units are not cheap. I am how ever selling my new BS3 unit For $1700 shipped if you want to go that route. I have decided to keep the T70 on my 346 build. My build is very similar to yours. I want to see what the T70 can do on the stock cube motor and stock PCM. I will be using the HPTuners 2 bar setup. I have had my share of hang ups that have slowed progress on my car, but I expect to pull good numbers out out it when complete. That and be one hell of a fun car to drive.
#58
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Why the sale (BS3)???
What do you think you'll pull with the T-70? Is yours a Master Power?
The heating issue still confuses me, though...
Oh, either way you'll have a BADASS street car... That's exactly what I want, a badass street car with AC and a fun top-down cruiser... I do want to squeeze the motor and I'm afraid of some drop-off at the end of the powerband when cranking the boost over 10-11 psi, 5500-6000 rpm or so, that I know will not happen with the T-76.
I appreciate the input, bring it on some more!
What do you think you'll pull with the T-70? Is yours a Master Power?
The heating issue still confuses me, though...
Oh, either way you'll have a BADASS street car... That's exactly what I want, a badass street car with AC and a fun top-down cruiser... I do want to squeeze the motor and I'm afraid of some drop-off at the end of the powerband when cranking the boost over 10-11 psi, 5500-6000 rpm or so, that I know will not happen with the T-76.
I appreciate the input, bring it on some more!
#59
I am selling it due to a couple of financial issues that have pooped up. Not a real big deal but I could use the extra cash else where. It is all new in the box and never been used. I was gonna go ahead and use it and have it ready for my 408 and 91.5mm set up when I got ballsy enough to put it in. All that have been sold so I am keeping the car more street oriented. The stock PCM and T70 and more than enough for my goals.
I wish I could help with the heating issue but I would have to get mine running before I can coment on that one.
I wish I could help with the heating issue but I would have to get mine running before I can coment on that one.
#60
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Sorry to hear that, man... In all honesty, what would you do with a BS3 408 91.5 mm BEAST besides the obvious fun, it'd probably be something of a bitch... Your stock PCM T-70 346 will be MUCH MORE fun on the street... I'm trying to do the same but with more uncertainty in regards to trusting the t-70... We'll see... SOMEONE will def buy that thing off of you, lots of maniacs building race cars around here.