Guages for FI
Guages for FI Looking to knock off a few things now before i order the kit this winter. I plan on running a wideband O2, fuel pressure and boost guage. Now my question is.... i hear i want a mechanical boost guage correct? And an electrical fuel pressure guage.... but damn, the fuel pressure in elec is $200, whats the difference in this over mech and is it a necessity or def a huge benefit to have? Also which wideband would you guys suggest? Thanks!
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huh? i dont understand what you just said.... also, i'll be going with autometer, do these light up at night along with my other guages or will i not be able to read them driving at night?
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I just bought a couple of dynotune round electric fuel pressure guages to put in cage mounted pods. I won't have them up and running for a while (since the cage pods are on backorder), but I've heard the Dynotune gauges are pretty darn accurate. The gauges do look nice and come with some damn nice harnesses.
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...idcategory=116
I've ran an LM-1 wideband in the past with good results. I don't know how it ranks compared to others though, since it's the only one that I've used.
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...idcategory=116
I've ran an LM-1 wideband in the past with good results. I don't know how it ranks compared to others though, since it's the only one that I've used.
a mechanical fuel pressure gauge requires you to run a fuel line to the gauge. so if you have a mechanical fuel pressure gauge INSIDE the car then you have to run a fuel line into the passenger compartment which is dangerous.
ok, elec it is then, now do these autometer light up?
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Originally Posted by Superman09
Looking to knock off a few things now before i order the kit this winter. I plan on running a wideband O2, fuel pressure and boost guage. Now my question is.... i hear i want a mechanical boost guage correct? And an electrical fuel pressure guage.... but damn, the fuel pressure in elec is $200, whats the difference in this over mech and is it a necessity or def a huge benefit to have? Also which wideband would you guys suggest? Thanks!
AEM widebands are pretty decent and have the outputs if you need to connect to a computer for wide band tuning. They have interchangeable faces and rings to customise it for your car. It doesn't light up any different at night since it's just a digital readout and green>>>>red LEDs
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Verdad Gallardo Yea, i've heard good things about the AEM but also the LC-1.... they are both roughly the same price.... Thanks for the info on the lighting, wouldnt want to spend so much on guages if i can't even see them working at night
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Originally Posted by Superman09
Yea, i've heard good things about the AEM but also the LC-1.... they are both roughly the same price.... Thanks for the info on the lighting, wouldnt want to spend so much on guages if i can't even see them working at night
ok thanks man!
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The fuel doesn't run into the car with a mechanical gauge - Autometer couldn't sell a dangerous setup like that. The line from the gauge to the fuel rail is filled with another liquid (not fuel) that is used to put pressure against the pieces inside the gauge to get your reading. The pain in this setup is purging all the air out of the line that runs to the fuel rail. If there is air in that line then your reading will be off.
Get the electric like I and many others have. Yeah, it's a few more bucks, but you are paying for ease of installation and less BS to deal with down the line. Imagine having to drain and refill that line each time you have to move the mech gauge or work in that area of the car, behind the dash, etc.
The electric gauge has 3 wires that run to a box (brain of the elec gauge setup). The fuel sender plugs into that box as well, and the box has it's own power/ground. The bulb wires are run seperately.
I wouldn't mount the sender directly to the rail. I would run a SS braided hose from the rail to the sender. In other applications, vibration from the sender has cracked the fuel rail when the sender is mounted directly to it.
HTH!
Get the electric like I and many others have. Yeah, it's a few more bucks, but you are paying for ease of installation and less BS to deal with down the line. Imagine having to drain and refill that line each time you have to move the mech gauge or work in that area of the car, behind the dash, etc.
The electric gauge has 3 wires that run to a box (brain of the elec gauge setup). The fuel sender plugs into that box as well, and the box has it's own power/ground. The bulb wires are run seperately.
I wouldn't mount the sender directly to the rail. I would run a SS braided hose from the rail to the sender. In other applications, vibration from the sender has cracked the fuel rail when the sender is mounted directly to it.
HTH!