Sts - Wrapped Exhaust -- Inside!!!!!
Originally Posted by trtturbo
It will hold fine. The tube is flexible, so it just bends some.
You can tell a little from this pic.
You can tell a little from this pic.
on the lift to the right!
heat retention Hey yall,
Back when I was running a front mount turbo on my truck, I went to Lowes and got some B-B-Q Grill paint.
I painted the headers, then I wrapped the headers with the 2" wide fiberglass wrap, then coated the wrap with the B-B-Q grille paint. When you first crank up the vehicle, it'll smoke and stink for a little bit, but then it'll burn (cure) and then you're ok.
Made a huge difference in under hood temps.
I'd think that you'd want to "y" the 2 exhaust's together as quickly as possible under with about 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 tubbing into a single 2 1/2 to 3" tubbing to the turbo to keep up the velocity and pressure going to the turbo. The faster you merge the 2, the more heat you retain and less surface area for the heat to escape. That's ALOT of wind and air moving across those exhaust pipes to exchange heat. Just think, it's just as much air moving across the exhaust as it is moving across that inlet charge pipe which STS uses as an "intercooling" point.
Another thing I wondered about spooling: The outlet on my MP-T70 was 2 1/2", but all my charge piping was 3", and i used a reducer from the intercooler piping to the turbo. I always wondered on the remote mounts, would it be benifical to run the 2 1/2 or 2 1/4 tubbing from the turbo all the way to the engine, (less space to boost).
As far as changing the T70, just get a smaller A/R on the turbine if you can find one.
I'm building my car now around the thoughts of adding a remote mount T-70 to my car in the future!
Just a thought, and keep the research on the remote set-ups going.
D Moss
Back when I was running a front mount turbo on my truck, I went to Lowes and got some B-B-Q Grill paint.
I painted the headers, then I wrapped the headers with the 2" wide fiberglass wrap, then coated the wrap with the B-B-Q grille paint. When you first crank up the vehicle, it'll smoke and stink for a little bit, but then it'll burn (cure) and then you're ok.
Made a huge difference in under hood temps.
I'd think that you'd want to "y" the 2 exhaust's together as quickly as possible under with about 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 tubbing into a single 2 1/2 to 3" tubbing to the turbo to keep up the velocity and pressure going to the turbo. The faster you merge the 2, the more heat you retain and less surface area for the heat to escape. That's ALOT of wind and air moving across those exhaust pipes to exchange heat. Just think, it's just as much air moving across the exhaust as it is moving across that inlet charge pipe which STS uses as an "intercooling" point.
Another thing I wondered about spooling: The outlet on my MP-T70 was 2 1/2", but all my charge piping was 3", and i used a reducer from the intercooler piping to the turbo. I always wondered on the remote mounts, would it be benifical to run the 2 1/2 or 2 1/4 tubbing from the turbo all the way to the engine, (less space to boost).
As far as changing the T70, just get a smaller A/R on the turbine if you can find one.
I'm building my car now around the thoughts of adding a remote mount T-70 to my car in the future!
Just a thought, and keep the research on the remote set-ups going.
D Moss
TECH Addict
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,153
Likes: 3
Originally Posted by dmoss69
I always wondered on the remote mounts, would it be benifical to run the 2 1/2 or 2 1/4 tubbing from the turbo all the way to the engine, (less space to boost).
Air velocities in the piping should not exceed 200 ft/sec to keep pressure drop down. Even with my 3" piping, I'm getting something like 220 ft/sec between the compressor and the intercooler.
Mike
Hot air is more dense?
Originally Posted by Zombie
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattslightning
The reason it helps is because hot air is more dense they say.
Might wanna just stick to saying it works and not try to explain it
Originally Posted by mattslightning
The reason it helps is because hot air is more dense they say.
Might wanna just stick to saying it works and not try to explain it
Cold air = denser, Hot air = more energy, but I meant what you knew...
MLE
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Teching In
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by TIM Z
I just recieved an exhaust wrap kit from summit, = 2 rolls of 2x50' and i got 2 cans of black silicone spray that lenghthens the life of the pipe/tape. im going to coat the exhaust pipe first then wrap it and spray over the wrap a second coat. i might even cover the wrap with some aluminum HVAC tape for even more water resistance.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by trtturbo
IMO, I would just stick with painting it.
Originally Posted by mattslightning
yeah I did the same. What a difference it makes! I actually bought 2 rolls and need to buy another roll to finish just have been to lazy. The reason it helps is because hot air is more dense they say.
colder air is more dense = more power
its cool man, i was in the same boat a while back
looks like my summer project just got added....
wrapping the exhaust.
so just go to advance and buy 2 2x50' rolls?
Last edited by ZL1Killa; Mar 23, 2007 at 09:21 AM.
2 50' rolls should do it depending on how much overlap you go with when trt wrapped my exhaust they basically went with a 50% overlap and used a little more then 50' ...the more you over lap the more heat you keep in so wrap it good and tight
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: NYC
i double wrapped my set-up and used HVAC aluminum tape early last summer[06]....its holding up great...every now and then the aluminum tape gets a little weathered but i just clean the affected section with lacquer thinner and apply a fresh piece of HVAC tape to that area...use a couple of cheap worm screw hose clamps spaced out evenly and it keeps it all snug....its a good upgrade for the rear mounts.
Originally Posted by JD_Z28
So I guess once you do the heat wrapping you would need a re-tune.