PTK 1 wire high output alternator question
PTK 1 wire high output alternator question I dont seem to be charging. I checked the large studded output line as well as all the small connections on the back of the alternator. I have no voltage anywhere.
Can someone please tell me which terminals should have output....also how are you guys hooking up your alternators (PTK high output, 1 wire).
I also am not showing any faults on the dash,......
Please be very detailed all info is a great help!!!!
Tom Ulrich
Can someone please tell me which terminals should have output....also how are you guys hooking up your alternators (PTK high output, 1 wire).
I also am not showing any faults on the dash,......
Please be very detailed all info is a great help!!!!
Tom Ulrich
the PTK alternator is not worth a ****
to make it Charge you need to find a switched 12volt source and run a 16 guage wire from there to the alternator harness that came with the kit
it is the yellow wire
that being said the alternator wont even put out 12 volts on my car after it gets hot
I was testing mine with the hood open and it dropped from ~14 volts to 11.8 in about 5 minutes at idle
you could hear the fans slowing down the entire time and this was with a Brand new Battery
we took a air hose and blew on the Algernator and it started to increase voltage but when we stoped it dropped back and kept falling
it has already killed one battery
I am in the process of finding a better alternator and making a set of brackets for it
when it is done I will post up here
to make it Charge you need to find a switched 12volt source and run a 16 guage wire from there to the alternator harness that came with the kit
it is the yellow wire
that being said the alternator wont even put out 12 volts on my car after it gets hot
I was testing mine with the hood open and it dropped from ~14 volts to 11.8 in about 5 minutes at idle
you could hear the fans slowing down the entire time and this was with a Brand new Battery
we took a air hose and blew on the Algernator and it started to increase voltage but when we stoped it dropped back and kept falling
it has already killed one battery
I am in the process of finding a better alternator and making a set of brackets for it
when it is done I will post up here
Originally Posted by tomulrich
thats not really what I wanted to hear.......will see how long the alt lasts...n
Yeah I've been sweating it too... Darren once you have a working bracket, go ahead and make a second one.
Just joking... ...a little 
I'm all right during the day.
At night with the lights on, radar detector on, A/C on, THAT'S when I have to turn something off if I've been sitting in traffic (alternator heats up). However, if I'm driving over 30 mph for over 5 minutes, my volts are back to normal again... I'm sure it's because that's when my puller is off more often, as the puller blows the hot air over the alternator when it's on.
At night with the lights on, radar detector on, A/C on, THAT'S when I have to turn something off if I've been sitting in traffic (alternator heats up). However, if I'm driving over 30 mph for over 5 minutes, my volts are back to normal again... I'm sure it's because that's when my puller is off more often, as the puller blows the hot air over the alternator when it's on.
(I'm going to be helping a friend install a PTK kit "sometime soon", that's why I'm looking here... interesting thread... we'll probably face the same issues.)
The Fiero has a factory alternator blower fan (caught me by surprise). What they did was mount a small squirrel cage fan in the rear fenderwell / trunk area, and they ran metal tubing inside the engine bay that eventually ended up within a couple inches of the alternator. That's probably not possible in the LS1 engine compartment tho.
The Fiero has a factory alternator blower fan (caught me by surprise). What they did was mount a small squirrel cage fan in the rear fenderwell / trunk area, and they ran metal tubing inside the engine bay that eventually ended up within a couple inches of the alternator. That's probably not possible in the LS1 engine compartment tho.
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Originally Posted by Camaroholic
The Fiero has a factory alternator blower fan (caught me by surprise). What they did was mount a small squirrel cage fan in the rear fenderwell / trunk area, and they ran metal tubing inside the engine bay that eventually ended up within a couple inches of the alternator. That's probably not possible in the LS1 engine compartment tho.
I wish I could do that to my motor... THAT would be perfect.
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Originally Posted by Spambell
We just finished a bracket that will allow you to use the factory alternator up top.
Originally Posted by bboyferal
I'm all right during the day.
At night with the lights on, radar detector on, A/C on, THAT'S when I have to turn something off if I've been sitting in traffic (alternator heats up). However, if I'm driving over 30 mph for over 5 minutes, my volts are back to normal again... I'm sure it's because that's when my puller is off more often, as the puller blows the hot air over the alternator when it's on.
At night with the lights on, radar detector on, A/C on, THAT'S when I have to turn something off if I've been sitting in traffic (alternator heats up). However, if I'm driving over 30 mph for over 5 minutes, my volts are back to normal again... I'm sure it's because that's when my puller is off more often, as the puller blows the hot air over the alternator when it's on.
the alternator on mine did it just after a fresh rebuild with the hood open setting inside a shop where it was ~ 90 with a fan blowing on it from the side
you could hold your hand on the waterpump with out getting burned but not the alternator
that was running the AC/both fans/blower motor/headlights/and everything else that I could
basicly like driving on a hot night
Spambell what do we need to do to get the new brackets
I need one pretty bad
Originally Posted by Darren P
it is not the puller fan
the alternator on mine did it just after a fresh rebuild with the hood open setting inside a shop where it was ~ 90 with a fan blowing on it from the side
you could hold your hand on the waterpump with out getting burned but not the alternator
that was running the AC/both fans/blower motor/headlights/and everything else that I could
basicly like driving on a hot night
Spambell what do we need to do to get the new brackets
I need one pretty bad
the alternator on mine did it just after a fresh rebuild with the hood open setting inside a shop where it was ~ 90 with a fan blowing on it from the side
you could hold your hand on the waterpump with out getting burned but not the alternator
that was running the AC/both fans/blower motor/headlights/and everything else that I could
basicly like driving on a hot night
Spambell what do we need to do to get the new brackets
I need one pretty bad
When I start driving for a while, the gauge begins to read normal again, like if it's cooling down... Can air cool the alternator in our cars at moderate speeds (over 30 mph)? That's why I thought my puller helped to heat it up...
I think it is because the RPM goes up and when you are mooving the air flows through the engine compartment so much better
when you are setting and it is loosing volts, at least on mine if you put your foot on the gas and bump it to around 1500 RPM it will go back to charging
when you are setting and it is loosing volts, at least on mine if you put your foot on the gas and bump it to around 1500 RPM it will go back to charging
Yeah, then I go back to idle, and it'll be FINE for a while... I think you're right about the air moving throught the engine compartment. I guess it's more than I thought.
Before all of us jump back on the stock alternator, how much better is it really supposed to be?
Before all of us jump back on the stock alternator, how much better is it really supposed to be?
Originally Posted by bboyferal
Yeah, then I go back to idle, and it'll be FINE for a while... I think you're right about the air moving throught the engine compartment. I guess it's more than I thought.
Before all of us jump back on the stock alternator, how much better is it really supposed to be?
Before all of us jump back on the stock alternator, how much better is it really supposed to be?
look in this thread on the stock ones
I wonder how good the MSD one is
Hey Darren, since you seem to have a better idea, can some of those "stock replacements" that can replace an alternator in a stock configuration REPLACE one in a relocated configuration?
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From: Forced Induction Heaven
Interesting I have been running the Alternator I got with my PTK TT kit for over 1.5 years. I drove it down to A&As party 400 miles through 106-110* weather. I have the fans set to 175 and 195..so basically they were running for 5 hours during my trip, plus I had the AC on, Radar Detector, Stereo and maintained 12.8-13.1 on the DIC the whole trip.
Tom didn't I email you about the hook 1 year ago? Maybe it was somebody else.
Sounds like you have a bad Alternator. Also you just need the 2 wires hooked up. The large one to the battery that goes on the post of the Alternator, and a single 12vdc switched. I routed my single wire 12vdc switched to the fan fuse in the fuse box.
Nick Yoskin just got a self exciting Alternator with an adjustable pot that allows for manual adjustment of the voltage output.
But I still have the same old Denso that came with my PTK kit 8K miles later.
Tom didn't I email you about the hook 1 year ago? Maybe it was somebody else.
Sounds like you have a bad Alternator. Also you just need the 2 wires hooked up. The large one to the battery that goes on the post of the Alternator, and a single 12vdc switched. I routed my single wire 12vdc switched to the fan fuse in the fuse box.
Nick Yoskin just got a self exciting Alternator with an adjustable pot that allows for manual adjustment of the voltage output.
But I still have the same old Denso that came with my PTK kit 8K miles later.
Clearly, you don't have the alternator we have. Yours is a Denso? 