So I am going to be installing my PTK(not the log style) kit in a week or 2. My forged 408 comes back freshened up and ready togo Next weekend. As the kit comes with no instructions and I have been told that you can install it yourself ez. I've watched someone else have nothing but headaches having theres installed. I can pull and install a motor, but it has seemed some people have had to do some fabbing on the Alt. bracket and some other things. Since VA has a lack of turbo installers. I am going to install my kit and hope I can work it out. My question is what should I look for in problems. Seeing what else is going to be a *** to work on.

 

Steering knuckle might be a little problem.

If you got their new version, released one month ago, of their Alt. bracket, there should be no problem at all.

Chances are you might need a scavenger pump to draw oil out the turbo... That's all I can think of off the top of my head... You shouldn't be posting this here though since they are not to be talked about. The first people you should call is Dalton (PTS) or Jose (FI) because they can answer all these questions for you.

-Alcides

 

hahahahaha.. easy my ***! It took me 5 days to get the pipes lined up right... Nice kit, but a major PITA....

This will be deleted though.

Country Boy

 

I know it is going to be a pita. I just wanted to be prepared. Sux that is going to be deleted as its not a sponsor but it is FI.

 

Ahhh... Country Boy... He's a mod here who is undergoing the install by himself...

Try PM'ing him? Maybe he'll be friendly enough to walk you through some things he's learned the hard way?

 

That was me posting from my Dads house Yeah, my advice... have someone else do it... or you better have some SERIOUS patients (which I dont have), also plan to redo every piece as you put it on the car. I had to completely do my wastgate stuff because it didnt line up at all. The steering knuckles and bolt will be a problem. The crossover will need smashed for clearence, move and wrap all wires and lines where turbo goes before you install the headers/ junction (wish I would have known that), youll need custom fittings if you have a PS cooler, youll need plug wire boots...

I knows there A LOT more that Im forgeting because its late.

 

I installed mine in 2 weekends and It was not that bed but I was working on a lift

 

Keeping coming guys. Believe me I am taking notes. My car already has a fuel system. I got pictures from frost, but does anyone else have pics or directions send to me they can send to me. Ill be calling Jose and Dalton on the kit. Just trying to get the data together so I lessen the blows of any unforseen problems. If sending pics please send to christopher.j.wells1@us.army.mil.

 

Tread lightly. PTK is not a good name to be throwing around right now. They owe a pretty decent sum of money to the site right now.

 

but they are sold by Forced Inductions and it was my understanding that we could at least help each other with installs and such

 

There would probably be less issues if it was referred to as the kit that FI sells. It's the three letter abbreviation that is a thorn in Admin's side.

 

For the *** kit, I'd say:

1) Wrap the **** out of everything, particularly the driver's side exhaust manifolds. Mine come so close to my wires that I kept burning them up. With sleeves on them, too.

2) Figure out if you REALLY need your AC. I know that you're supposed to be able to keep it, but trust me... it's impossible to adequately cool the car with the little pushers supplied with the kit trying to move air through the AC condenser AND your radiator. If you want to save yourself a lot of grief, just punt your AC and use (big) shrouded pushers right on the radiator. If you're really set on keeping the AC, you'll see the worst problems in stop-and-go city driving after the engine has heat soak. Search in this forum for some guys that have managed to make their system cool correctly with the AC. By the way, get an aftermarket H2O temp gauge if you're going to try to keep the AC. The stock gauge is famously inaccurate. I think a hood with heat extractors would help quite a bit.

3) Seriously consider an electronic boost control such as an Eboost2. Attaining and keeping target boost levels has not been nearly as simple as I thought it should be.

4) Pick up a wideband that you can use to log your A/F while driving it on the street.

5) My shop has seen both the Smokinhawk and "new" alternator bracket from PT*. The Smokinhawk bracket is the better choice; when used with a Katech tensioner my system lined up just right. The alternator relo will not allow all fuel rails, though: FAST rails on a 78 mm FAST intake did not fit anymore... had to switch to CPR rails and the passenger side fitting is REALLY close to the alternator. You'll save yourself alot of swearing if you do the fitment for all this stuff prior to dropping in your motor, obviously.

6) Watch the downpipe clearance on the steering linkage, as mentioned above. My exhaust "settled" with some driving and moved the downpipe close enough to melt part of my steering. Maybe install your exhaust with a spacer between the two and add a couple of hangers up front to ensure that it'll stay where you put it.

Good luck with the install; you're a brave man to DIY.

 

The car had a STS on it so most of my gauges are setup. I have a FAST intake with 90TB and LS1inc FR. Think thewy will fit.

Luckily I have no AC. Anyone got part numbers for the big pushers you guys used?
I dont have heat extractors, but i have a ram air hood on the car from VFN.

I also already have a eboost2 and a assortment of gauges, but I guess I am going to need a teamp gauge now too.




Thanks guys this is looking more and more like I might have to pawn this off on someone.

 

Cool, I think that if you've already ditched the AC you're well ahead of the game. And since you're going to mount pushers right on the radiator, I wouldn't really worry about adding an aftermarket H2O temp gauge. I think you'll be fine.

I should clarify my statement above, too... when I said "my shop" I should've said "the shop doing my install". Don't want to mislead you with false hopes that I can actually wrench at all.

I think the "staight out" fitting on your passenger fuel rail is going to be a problem with a relo stock alternator. But, like I said, you have the opportunity to make all that stuff work together with the new motor out of the car... so it shouldn't be too bad.

One thing that I'm going to do with my aftermarket RAM air hood is to open up the nostrils all the way into the engine compartment. SAWZALL time? Oh, and I peeled off the weatherstripping on the underside hood near the firewall to create a vent gap back there... you can see the heat just pour out when it's hot.

 

Nice!

I like the TA wing on the Formula!

 

I agree I hate the formula bump hatch

 

Just give me a call when ya plan to start............


Kyle

 

Thanks Kyle. Nice to have friends. I'll install the motor and cover some of the other ****. Probrably be 2 weeks or so. See ya then bud

 

Not a problem man.


Im sending off the check for $100 for the track rental..... so were on for the 27th...... im going to put in for that day off from work.... then ill drive her over to your place and we will leave from there.


Kyle

 

No problem we can meet at Bass pro. Im talking to group think we will have alot of cars caravanning to the rental. Rental is great for you to get good seat time.