ways of spooling a turbo faster
10-14-2006, 02:04 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by trtturbo
what everyone else said. Get rid of the 4:10s. I am slowly putting together my own truck and going with 3:08s. Keep that turbo loaded!!
10-14-2006, 03:28 PM
#23
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/591129-post-your-dyno-et-mph.html after looking at this I have to go with the th400 hands down.
10-14-2006, 03:43 PM
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Its all in the tuning. Leaning the engine (14 AF down to 12 AF by peak TQ) before peak TQ usually spool the turbo faster, but you have to make sure u have the richest AF at peak TQ or Kaboom.
Lean= higher EGT= faster spool.
If you look at factory Turbo cars tunes you will notice that they run in the 15 range down to 12 by peak TQ. That helps them get faster spool up and good milage when cruising.
Lean= higher EGT= faster spool.
If you look at factory Turbo cars tunes you will notice that they run in the 15 range down to 12 by peak TQ. That helps them get faster spool up and good milage when cruising.
BOSS APPROVED!
10-14-2006, 09:13 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by Urban Legend
There you go trying to start some ****...
10-15-2006, 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Zombie
If you want to go 10's you need WAY more power and/or an auto. Just to get to 125 you need way more power than you have now.
Just going by the math of trying to get 4300lbs to go 125mph you need to make around 800 rwhp.
Just going by the math of trying to get 4300lbs to go 125mph you need to make around 800 rwhp.
10-15-2006, 01:17 PM
#32
I think a few of the following should help spool..
Leaner afr as has been mentioned.I think the leaner the better but you have to be careful Meth injection can help you run leaner on pump.
Some guys also say less timing under the spool up area but not sure if that one is true.
A lighter flywheel should help in a stick car.
Bigger displacement should give quicker spool up. Would expect a 408 to spool up faster than a 346 on same size turbo.
Ball bearing turbo will spool a bit quicker and stay spooled better between shifts than non ball bearing turbos.
I am drawing on experience in my 97 talon.It has ball bearing turbo and lightweight flywheel and have a 2.4 litre which spools up the turbo faster than a 2.0 stock displacement.
Also my dsm software has both antilag and two step launch. The antilag does let you build sick boost on the line. They should have this feature in hp tuners and other programs but dont' think they do.Also should be able to do a two step in software.My dsm program also has no lift to shift but requires a clutch wire mod. This all gets you off the line with big boost, the 2.4 and flywheel let the turbo spin up quick and the ball bearing design and the no lift to shift keeps you spooled up nicely.
Being able to rev the car a bit higher might also help you stay spooled up depending on your engine and combo.
Leaner afr as has been mentioned.I think the leaner the better but you have to be careful Meth injection can help you run leaner on pump.
Some guys also say less timing under the spool up area but not sure if that one is true.
A lighter flywheel should help in a stick car.
Bigger displacement should give quicker spool up. Would expect a 408 to spool up faster than a 346 on same size turbo.
Ball bearing turbo will spool a bit quicker and stay spooled better between shifts than non ball bearing turbos.
I am drawing on experience in my 97 talon.It has ball bearing turbo and lightweight flywheel and have a 2.4 litre which spools up the turbo faster than a 2.0 stock displacement.
Also my dsm software has both antilag and two step launch. The antilag does let you build sick boost on the line. They should have this feature in hp tuners and other programs but dont' think they do.Also should be able to do a two step in software.My dsm program also has no lift to shift but requires a clutch wire mod. This all gets you off the line with big boost, the 2.4 and flywheel let the turbo spin up quick and the ball bearing design and the no lift to shift keeps you spooled up nicely.
Being able to rev the car a bit higher might also help you stay spooled up depending on your engine and combo.
10-15-2006, 04:13 PM
#33
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Good info, I am going to try to push the little 5.3 as far as I can go. This is my challenge before it blows. When it blows I will bore it to a forged 5.7. But with the stock pistons and rods I have been alittle timid on reving pass 6000rpm. That is a good point. I will check with my tuner on the antilag stuff. I dont know of a ball bearing turbine for the rear mount setups, but I am shure someone here does. I am trying to keep my cubic inches small, If I was to go 408 I would need a new turbo,fuel system, drive line, ect. It adds up quick.
10-15-2006, 04:24 PM
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Why are you letting off between the shifts? It's called a power shift and it's great for the tranny. 
Seriously though just power shift it. At worst you'll need a new clutch sooner and a beefier T56, but your times will be better and the turbo will stay spooled. My turbo stays spooled between shifts, and if it doesn't, then it's not noticable. Do you have a BOV? If not, then that's a huge problem in itself right there.
There's a thread in the Drag Racing section over at PT.net where I explained how I can build boost on the line with the clutch in and no 2 step. Sure a 2step would help, but my cheap *** doesn't want to shell out 300 bones. I retard timing, and ADD not subtract fuel. The raw unburnt fuel gets burt in the tailpipe and makes it hotter than hell and at about 4500 I see 5psi. At 5500rpm holding it there I see full boost (10psi). With a 2 step it'd be a ton easier. That's a 4.8 (with 7 sealing cylinders) and a GT67R with a .81 A/R.
I wish my truck weighed only 4300lbs.
There are some 10sec and faster 6spd turbo cars on here, maybe they'll chime in.
Seriously though just power shift it. At worst you'll need a new clutch sooner and a beefier T56, but your times will be better and the turbo will stay spooled. My turbo stays spooled between shifts, and if it doesn't, then it's not noticable. Do you have a BOV? If not, then that's a huge problem in itself right there.There's a thread in the Drag Racing section over at PT.net where I explained how I can build boost on the line with the clutch in and no 2 step. Sure a 2step would help, but my cheap *** doesn't want to shell out 300 bones. I retard timing, and ADD not subtract fuel. The raw unburnt fuel gets burt in the tailpipe and makes it hotter than hell and at about 4500 I see 5psi. At 5500rpm holding it there I see full boost (10psi). With a 2 step it'd be a ton easier. That's a 4.8 (with 7 sealing cylinders) and a GT67R with a .81 A/R.
I wish my truck weighed only 4300lbs.
There are some 10sec and faster 6spd turbo cars on here, maybe they'll chime in.
10-15-2006, 05:10 PM
#35
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Yeah, I am a softy. I'm scurd to power shift, I drive 18 speed semi trucks for a living (12 years now) LOL. But dont want to power shift it. Id rather sell the 6 speed and buy a th400 with a GV unit and do it right. 6 speed automatic, I could bang all the gears I want. You are right it could be done, but I will break something and still will not reach my goal. I do have a blow off valve, and with the two step I can build as much boost as I want to at 3900rpm. My problem is my meth comes on at 5psi and it starts back fireing. I think I will go th400. Its very pricy but I think it is the best way. That or a 4l80, but that is another thread.
10-15-2006, 11:35 PM
#39
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If I do that I will not be able to use 6th gear. I guess I will just have 5 speeds with a 30 inch tire. But I know what you mean. If you go through the traps with those gears what rpm would you be at?
10-15-2006, 11:52 PM
#40
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I was looking at a speed calcalator and I am very close to you with a 3.42's. In 4th gear at 5500rpm I will be at 118mph you will be at 114mph. If you are useing a 26 inch tire. Me with a 30 inch tire and 4.10's.