Professional Dyno Tuners Come inside: Advice Needed
Ok, here's the situation: The car is currently running 16psi on 93oct and is making 750rwph & 750rwtq. All this with basically a forged truck motor (6.0L iron block, eagle rods, arp L19, arp head bolts, MLS, stock truck heads/gold springs, ls1 intake, ls1 TB, Z06 cam). I am about to purchase a BIG custom ground turbo cam and a coolingmist progressive and programmable meth inj system. My goal after the install and a proff. dyno tune is 900rwhp. Is this realistic? I am hoping to hit 20-22psi on pump with the meth in full blast. Is the ls1 intake sufficient for this setup? Will it cause a major lean issue with #7? I have a innovative lc1/xd16 wideband hooked to the drivers side DP to keep an eye on it. I know a single plane intake is ideal and I will do it later but just don't have the $$ right now. Also, is it absolutely necessary to go to bigger injectors? ...since the meth is 118octane?
I know the ideal situation would be to save up and buy all the parts, install them, then get a tune but I'm in a sticky situation. I currently have access to a shop where I can do the cam swap w/my buddy who has done it before. After spring I will be moving and won't be able to do it so I have to do the cam install now. I don't want to be driving around with an untuned cammed turbo car and not be able to go into boost for the next few months so I want to get it tuned right away.
So here's the current plan: Install new turbo cam+meth system then get a proffessional dyno tune. In the future replace intake w/single plane but keep same tune. And the goal is to hit 900rwhp/tq with everything else being the same.
Your educated and experienced thoughts please....
Also, the meth system I'll be using will be a made to order kit to fit my power goals, it will be a twin nozzle setup and the controller has 10 different spray curves so it shouldn't be hard to dial in. If that doesn't work then you can make a map and load it on to the controller for an exact fit. I'll be spraying as much as possible....
If you look at most flow data, they are really starting to struggle beyond 75psi, as flow ability does drop off.
Buy a decent pump ( s ) that can maintain flow at such pressures, and that should make a big difference. A pair of Bosch 044 pumps would do well. They pretty much maintain a steady flow rate up to around 110psi.
Dont know what the injectors will do if you tried say 80+psi static though.
Here's another question though. Why not just wind the boost up to 25psi NOW along with the methanol, and leave the cam as is ?
The fuel system is something you never want to do small... over kill there is better....
Kyle
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PSJ: Plan on revving a max of 7K but will set limiter where power peaks.
stevieturbo: I'm tired of the car being so quiet, I want the big cammed car sound comming from the duals.
2000TranzAM: If you did 933 on 101oct then your fuel system was flowing 100% of the fuel and that would not be the case with me because the meth will cool the charge and add 118oct at the same time-on top of the fuel system.
Nasty: Before I did the build I researched the big hp single pumps but none of them are designed to be run 8hrs at a time as I sometimes do. Whereas the walbros were designed to run cool and quiet all day. Also as mentioned I have a wideband hooked up so I can monitor AFR conditions.
The fuel system was modled after MightyMouses so I feel confident it can handle that power. My second pump is currenty activated via hobbs but I don't feel good about it so I'm thinking about running to a toggle on the steer wheel so I can engage/disengage whenever I like and know it's working. Something you guys seem to be missing is that my fuel system doesn't have to be able to flow 900rwhp worth of fuel since the meth system is in essence a standalone separate fuel system.
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I've never used meth, but it seems like using meth + 93 works like running 104 or 110 gas. Not 116-118 octane. I plan to get a meth kit from Julio or Snow and mess around with it. But you could maybe do 900rwhp on 93 + meth with an M6, but I would not get greedy with timing and I would cap the max IAT's at like 125F to be safe, and see happens. I hear that 150F Iat's can get problematic.
The fuel system is something you never want to do small... over kill there is better....
Kyle
Mounting them in-line...would be pointless, as you would still be limited by the most capable pump ( + a little extra perhaps )
I assumed from what he said, he was using in-line pumps, but mounted in parallel, as opposed to in-tank pumps ???
The Bosch pumps I am using will maintain their flow ability to 8 bar, as stated by Bosch.
I run them in parallel, all the time. So far I'd have almost 4000 miles on this setup, with no problems.
I'm running RC Eng 73lb's, at 4.25bar base pressure, and seeing as high as about 1.4 bar boost, which is about 83psi total fuel pressure.
My fuel pressure is rock solid.
I wouldnt be that impressed with the RC injectors compared to the 60lb Siemens I was using previously at 4.5 bar base. TBH Inj pulse widths arent that much different to maintain similar AFR's. I had to use a lot more pressure with the 73's than I had wanted to, or indeed ever expected to.
But as my ecu cannot drive low Z injectors...I had little choice, as I didnt want to fart about with resistors or convertors. If I have to do that, I'll buy a better ecu.
Havent actually checked IDC's, but recorded pulse widths are in and around 19ms at the higher rpm's so they are prob over 90% IDC
but my main question is can u please explain to me y u need more then 725RWHP? id love to hear that answer, what are u pissed u cant spin 5th gear??
but my main question is can u please explain to me y u need more then 725RWHP? id love to hear that answer, what are u pissed u cant spin 5th gear??
Running them both all the time may be "less efficient" as you say. But its easy.
As for the carb intake.....Im still not convinced. When I swapped over from the LS6/Stock TB to the Victor jnr/85mm TB...
I dont have access to a dyno,, but I'm really not convinced it has a huge amount more power. Fuelling requirements to maintain similar AFR's has changed very little To me that indicates power hasnt changed.
Mid range, say 3-5000rpm it does feel a lot better and I did need to add a reasonable bit of fuel there.
But 5000rpm upwards....very little changed.
Perhaps I need a bigger cam or something to make the most out of it. Either way it doesnt bother me much, as I did it more for visual appeal. If it performed better, it was a bonus.
But I'm still not convinced of the merits of big cams on forced induction motors.
I kept most aspects of mine mild...smallish heads, mildish cam....and its working well for me.
Having the 2nd fuel pump triggered with TPS for example means that if you say get to 50% TPS (gas pedal is half pressed), the fuel pump comes on. Having it a be a switch sounds problematic and when guys I know have stuff like that they usually forget it and leave it on or forget to turn it on and run lean.
And I'd research the idea of having the timing get reduced if the IAT's go above a certain value, like have the timing cut back like 6 degrees if the IAT's go over 130F. That would be a good way to avoid damage.
Micro-switch on throttle, or aftermarket ecu? Or??
I thought about it, but never licked the throttle microswitches Ive seen for nitrous apps...



