subscribing, want to see pic from the bottom with front bumper on.

 

Shot a PM your way. Still a bit confused on this FMIC setup.

 

subscribing. Very nice work can't wait to see more

 

Here ya go!



Thanks for the compliments guys. I'll keep plugging away at it. This last weekend didn't get much turbo work done but it did get this...




I did get the scavenge pump a few days ago. I've been working up the merits of an engine feed oil system with a scavenge return or just using the pump to handing oiling duties for the turbocharger system on it's own. What I ultimately decided was to use the pump to provide oiling to both turbochargers and implement a gravity drain into a pan. The pump will be controlled by the turbo controller unit and I am putting a pressure switch to send a low pressure signal to the controller to alert the driver to possible pump failure.

I also decided to go with the twin in-tank fuel pump setup and used the similar code to control the operation of the secondary fuel pump. The neat thing is I can control output from the secondary pump to effectively allow me to meter fuel output electronicly or allow a smooth cut-in of the secondary pump to avoid pressure/flow spikes.

 

thats exactly same place where I have mine mounted(mine just 8in instead of 12) and I do have my fans running more often than it was without intercooler.

 

I drove around on a 55* day last week with no airdam and the engine temps never strayed from normal. Not sure about the radiator fans running more or not but it could be that the area above the IC is completely open. I don't recall if I've seen any pics of your setup but if you are using the stock bumper support, that might be causing some of the air restriction.

My old LT1 setup would get warm on a summer day unless I ran the IC fan, then it was fine. Yesterday I reset the on temps for my fans while I was in adjusting gears but it's been so damn cold here, it wouldn't get hot anyway.

 

wow, Im impressed...subscribing.

 

Well I wish I had some more updates. I got off track a little bit this weekend and built some subframe connectors instead of working on my turbo system. ADD........

 

Any more pics of the IC installed from both up top looking down and from underneath? Also how did you wire in the IC fans? do they just run or are they programmed?

 

any more updates?

 

Sorry for the slow reply. Got caught up building my SFCs.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...58#post6440258

The fans will be controlled by the system controller but there is no reason you couldn't run them via a relay off your stock fans (using power to a stock fan as your relay signal) or off a switch. On my old car, I did it using a switch. I'll see if I can get you some more pics but it isn't going to show a great deal more since the fascia is back on.

 

Actually.. Yes. The Wif was sick on Sunday so I pampered her a bit and stayed glued to my laptop. I was thinking a little harder about the road race (touring) mode and how it will operate. Originally the focus is to keep both turbos spinning will still diverting enough to one turbo to reach max boost as fast as possible. I got to thinking, that could use a bit of tweaking. If you were running a static boost all the way around a road course and your respool hit hard enough, you might have some traction problems coming out of the corner.

So I thought the answer to that was to read throttle (and perhaps braking) and adjust the boost down. For example, if you are coming out of a hard corner and nail it and you spool up to 12psi, blow the tires off and spin, well that's not the fastest way around the track! To save you from having to feather the turbos so much, you could program it to come out of a corner at a lower boost level and increase boost so to prevent shocking the tires so hard but give you all your power at the end of the corner and down the straight.

Anyway, I wrote some code to lower the boost to a number based on the percentage of throttle used through the corner (long sweeper might have you at 50% while a hairpin could have you at 0%).

All these cool things it does look awesome on a test bench (coffee table this weekend) but I need to quit building other **** and focus on the system lol. Considering I just ordered aluminum tubing and rodends to make some new LCAs and a PHB, I'm not doing a very good job!

I really only need one more turbo and some odds and ends at this point to start the build. Gotta get refocused lol

 

great stuff speed! it would be nice to have boost baised on throttle position. then you could "open" the throttle nice and gently out the corner and the PSI would incrase with the throttle! this would make it drive more like a manual out of the corner but still have the pull of a turbo on the straights!

oh and by the way you know your going to have to make kits for loads of diffrent cars! the autocross/roadracers/track day cars/anyone that like to drive on twisty groads would just love this kit!!!

thanks Chris.

 

Thanks! The more I keep tweaking the controller code, the more I think I just need to get a basic system to control the turbo and bring these snippets in one at a time. It really easy to drown in the details on this stuff.

Anyway, I relocated the battery to the rear last night which is an important first step in getting the kit done. I've also got the second turbocharger on it's way. Nothing special about my battery relocation but there seems to be a lot of confusion around this so I thought I would post up my details.

I just used a 6 dollar sealed marine battery box from Walmart. The wire is 25 feet of #1 welding wire from Airgas. Welding wire is very good for this application and the thin strands make the wire very flexible and durable. I also used two copper lugs from Airgas which I soldered in the wire. I had seen them plunge the wire into a lug full of molten solder on American Hotrod and always wanted to try that. I'm a nerd.

I left the extra wire coiled as I haven't figured out what I want to do for a cutoff switch. I really don't want it visible for daily driving so I need to come up with some way to bring it out. I also want to install a fuse since smoking this wire will most likely burn the car down. I also have some large read heat shrink to protect the lugs.

I just built a battery box stand out of 1in angle and attached it with threaded rod to the wheel well. I used the strap that came with it to secure it to the box to the spare tire mount. Instead of an audio terminal block, I just delivered power to the fuse block terminal (ls1). Technically, that is all you need to do since leads from the alternator, starter, and fuse block all terminate at the original battery connector (I tested it). Anyway, I moved the connections from the alternator and starter to the fuse block terminal to clean up the area around the original battery location.







Here is one more distraction down. Some Jon A. style aluminum LCAs and PHB I built.



A little polishing action

 

Where did you find the spherical ends to build those out of?

They appear to be adjustible, thats baller

 

hmmmmmmmm ball joints

great work Speed, keep it up!

Chris.

 

B you never cease to amaze me man... no one believed your little bone stock LT1 Z28 made over 500rwhp and 6xxrwtq without even a valve spring change That car took a whooping... I remember you and Jay spraying everything you could find into the intake to get the car into limp mode so you could get home The good ol days...

 

What's up Travis. How's AF life treating you? I enjoyed my time for sure! Yeah we had some fun with that LT1 car. Hopefully this one will live up to that legacy!

On that note... It's game time kids!

 

Meh to much work,get some Ball bearing turbos that match your setup good and call it a freaken day!

 

hey speed, time to get off the computer and get fabbing agian! what are the specs on the turbos agian????? (sorry memorys crap! lol)

Chris.