How can you tell if a turbo is ball bearing or not??
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How can you tell if a turbo is ball bearing or not??
How can you tell if a turbo is Ball Bearing or not? My buddy bought one from a guy is a Garret turbo is new but me and him are barely getting into Forced Induction.
#2
If you set it up on the turbine outlet, looking down into the compressor inlet, you can grab the wheel and spin it. If it spins longer than a few seconds, its probably a BB unit. Also, the BB units will have a billet aluminum compressor hub, most times anodized in a color.
This is a non-ball bearing unit:
http://www.ls7power.com/videos/pt72_nonball.avi
This unit is a ball bearing unit, note the differences:
http://www.ls7power.com/videos/pt67_ballbearing.avi
This is a non-ball bearing unit:
http://www.ls7power.com/videos/pt72_nonball.avi
This unit is a ball bearing unit, note the differences:
http://www.ls7power.com/videos/pt67_ballbearing.avi
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Absolutely brilliant demonstration there John! Thanks. Next question, can a non-BB Turbonetics T76 be converted to a BB by swapping out the cartridge? THanks for the great post.
David K. Wilson
'94 383 LT1 Z28 A4 3.42
'96 383 LT1 Z28 M6 4.10 (T76 being installed)
David K. Wilson
'94 383 LT1 Z28 A4 3.42
'96 383 LT1 Z28 M6 4.10 (T76 being installed)
Originally Posted by NOSjohn
If you set it up on the turbine outlet, looking down into the compressor inlet, you can grab the wheel and spin it. If it spins longer than a few seconds, its probably a BB unit. Also, the BB units will have a billet aluminum compressor hub, most times anodized in a color.
This is a non-ball bearing unit:
http://www.ls7power.com/videos/pt72_nonball.avi
This unit is a ball bearing unit, note the differences:
http://www.ls7power.com/videos/pt67_ballbearing.avi
This is a non-ball bearing unit:
http://www.ls7power.com/videos/pt72_nonball.avi
This unit is a ball bearing unit, note the differences:
http://www.ls7power.com/videos/pt67_ballbearing.avi
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Originally Posted by mightyquickz28
Absolutely brilliant demonstration there John! Thanks. Next question, can a non-BB Turbonetics T76 be converted to a BB by swapping out the cartridge? THanks for the great post.
David K. Wilson
'94 383 LT1 Z28 A4 3.42
'96 383 LT1 Z28 M6 4.10 (T76 being installed)
David K. Wilson
'94 383 LT1 Z28 A4 3.42
'96 383 LT1 Z28 M6 4.10 (T76 being installed)
The turbine wheel on my T-76 BB Q-trim got damaged from pieces of piston passing through it. I asked Turbonetics if I could just order a replacement Q-trim wheel/shaft assembly, but they said it was not the same as the standard non-BB wheel/shaft and that my dealer would have to do the repair. It ended up being damn expensive! I no longer think that price of buying/fixing a BB is worth the small spool difference over a non-BB unit (which can be fixed for peanuts).
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i just bought a almost brand new bb turbonetics t76 it has a gold anodized billet hub.... it is a .81 version so it should spool just nice on my 5.3 but i found it weird the turbo is water cooled , the turbo was originally ordered for a import aplication but was of course way too big for like 230 cubes and needed a bunch of nitrous to get it to spool down low ........ my question is how does the water cooled aspect affect things
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This is exactly the kind of response I'd hoped for in terms of clarity and first person experience. I know the BB spool more quickly with all other things being equal but I think my 383 will pump the compressor quickly enough to make the difference negligible, especially since it's primarily a street application with 20% strip duty.
THanks!
THanks!
Originally Posted by Eddiep
From what I understand, you have to swap the whole CHRA - might as well just buy a the complete BB turbo and sell yours.
The turbine wheel on my T-76 BB Q-trim got damaged from pieces of piston passing through it. I asked Turbonetics if I could just order a replacement Q-trim wheel/shaft assembly, but they said it was not the same as the standard non-BB wheel/shaft and that my dealer would have to do the repair. It ended up being damn expensive! I no longer think that price of buying/fixing a BB is worth the small spool difference over a non-BB unit (which can be fixed for peanuts).
The turbine wheel on my T-76 BB Q-trim got damaged from pieces of piston passing through it. I asked Turbonetics if I could just order a replacement Q-trim wheel/shaft assembly, but they said it was not the same as the standard non-BB wheel/shaft and that my dealer would have to do the repair. It ended up being damn expensive! I no longer think that price of buying/fixing a BB is worth the small spool difference over a non-BB unit (which can be fixed for peanuts).
#11
Whoa - this thread went wild. I'll try to answer everyone, glad to help.
silversurfer - there is no down side to having a journal bearing turbo. Make sure when shutting down any turbo vehicle after a hard run that you allow it to IDLE or cool down prior to shutting off. This prevents coking in the lines. NOW, the benefit to a BB unit is 10-15% faster spool time. The added benefits are mostly notable in road racing, gtp, etc.
Dave wilson - a turbo company can do anything you want with your core, however, it would probably be much easier to just buy a BB unit. Short answer - yes.
tire - water cooling helps a ton, especially on shut down. In applications for drag racing or daily street driving it is not entirely necessary. If you take a minute or two after a blast to wait, before turning off your key, any turbo is fine. Again, the added benefits are long term heat absorbtion are negated. This is especially helpful in road racing, gtp, etc...or any long periods of extended spooling.
silversurfer - there is no down side to having a journal bearing turbo. Make sure when shutting down any turbo vehicle after a hard run that you allow it to IDLE or cool down prior to shutting off. This prevents coking in the lines. NOW, the benefit to a BB unit is 10-15% faster spool time. The added benefits are mostly notable in road racing, gtp, etc.
Dave wilson - a turbo company can do anything you want with your core, however, it would probably be much easier to just buy a BB unit. Short answer - yes.
tire - water cooling helps a ton, especially on shut down. In applications for drag racing or daily street driving it is not entirely necessary. If you take a minute or two after a blast to wait, before turning off your key, any turbo is fine. Again, the added benefits are long term heat absorbtion are negated. This is especially helpful in road racing, gtp, etc...or any long periods of extended spooling.
#13
Think of it as an IC for the turbo. On a turbo system, the IC helps lower temps, without an IC, temps are higher.
As far as IAT's, I've never noticed a difference due to always running big azz intercoolers. Yes, it helps keep the turbo cooler, thereby preventing coking of the lines and core from quick shutdown/long duration at high boost.
As far as IAT's, I've never noticed a difference due to always running big azz intercoolers. Yes, it helps keep the turbo cooler, thereby preventing coking of the lines and core from quick shutdown/long duration at high boost.
#15
Please note, that most Garrett BB turbos can NOT be rebuilt, so take that into consideration. ITS, T-netics BB's CAN be rebuilt. Also the main reason for a BB setup is indeed some help with spool up, but the major part of it is the elimination of the thrust bearing. This gives the turbo ALOT more strength and reliability under harsh racing conditions.
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Originally Posted by DrTurbo
Also the main reason for a BB setup is indeed some help with spool up, but the major part of it is the elimination of the thrust bearing. This gives the turbo ALOT more strength and reliability under harsh racing conditions.