What forged block did you go with?
How much did it cost?
Were did you get it?
And finally hows it workin out for ya?
Thanks for all the input guys.
Last edited by Screamin'Chicken; Jan 16, 2007 at 07:23 PM.
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If you stay aluminum, go with a 383 or whatever will fit in the stock block (crank wise).
Arent the warhawk blocks aluminum too? If so, and you have enough money for that, get that... 511+ CI with 6 bolts per head!!
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with bigger cubes you gotta get heads too which runs into more money.
depends on what you want.
i had my stock block forged here locally with callies rods/diamond pistons and ARP everything.
On a exact duplicate block in another car , it withstood 900 + rwhp horsepower. Its a red corvette at texas speed n perf twin turbo plus juice.
with bigger cubes you gotta get heads too which runs into more money.
depends on what you want.
i had my stock block forged here locally with callies rods/diamond pistons and ARP everything.
On a exact duplicate block in another car , it withstood 900 + rwhp horsepower. Its a red corvette at texas speed n perf twin turbo plus juice.
Take this advice and you can't go wrong. My motor is being rebuilt right now in the above direction can't go wrong and can make up to 1000 hp.
This is for a 408ci;
New 6.0 block, Eagle 4340 forged 4" crank, 6.125 Eagle rods with ARP rod bolts, Wiseco pistons 4.030 bore, Childs & Albert rings, Federal Mogal and Clevite bearings, ARP main studs.
LIne bored, cylinders bored and honed, rotating assembly balanced, decks checked, file fit rings, and assembled. This also includes drilling and tapping the hole needed to bolt up the accessory bracket.
$3600.00 no core required.
the reason some have gotten into iron blocks was because they were cheaper than the aluminum and they gave up free cubes.





