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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 11:32 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by kp
Have a couple kids and a big house, few other hobbies and then tell me about it Not like its real hard swapping head gaskets but I'm waliking the line between 'fun' race car and pain in the *** race car right now lol.

Besides Kyle should get in the 8s first since he has a green car, we all know black cars are the fastest so I'll watch him try in the spring


ha ha ha

Thanks Kev........ ill be working my way there in the spring .....
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 12:11 PM
  #22  
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Maybe try a wilder cam to drop a couple lbs..
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 12:24 PM
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KP, did you ever thought about getting heads with thicker decks such as AFR, ET or TFS. Im sure any of these heads will help your problem.
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 12:28 PM
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I belive he is running Darts right now. Dont they have thicker decks than stock?
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 12:50 PM
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iron block and afr deck....lol. doesnt cure all problems.


and, im not really delusional on the idea of "regular maitenence" on my car. i realize im gona be in there ALL THE TIME at this stage in the game. im just at the point where i ask myself "why do i put myself through this?" its neverending. but then i remember on hot summer nights cruising around why i do this.

i know i shouldnt be crying about it, haha. i just wish this didnt consume my life like it does, and i had a little more capital to do other things i want. just reminds me to finish school, and focus on the important things in life. tear

sorry for my insight, HAHA
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 2001WS6Vert
Maybe try a wilder cam to drop a couple lbs..
Bigger cam would work but I kind of like the idea of a small cam, putting a big cam in to bleed off boost is really no different then just putting the other blower on except maybe I'll gain some top end power. So I still get the higher IAT plus the drag of the bigegr blower. Takes 15 minutes to switch blowers. I really didnt expect the F1A to pick up 2psi over the maxed out D1 with the 7.25/4" pulleys, I was hoping to get around the same boost level by pulleying the F1A down and maybe get some cooler IATs in the process to start. Unfortunately I cant pulley this F1 down any more with the pulley setup I have.

I'm satisfied with how the car is running really, all I ask of a car is it runs as well as it can for the parts involved and that it does. There is a whole bunch of new stuff coming down the pipe so instead of building a 402 or something now I'll run the car as-is and wait and see how the 6 bolt per cylinder stuff comes along - one thing I do have is time
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 02:10 PM
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you know you want my blower cam...i'll send it to you in about a month

.578/.602 233/244 115....

That'll help bleed some off.
J
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 02:18 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by frcefed98
you know you want my blower cam...i'll send it to you in about a month

.578/.602 233/244 115....

That'll help bleed some off.
J
I'll take it to put in a 402 or something though if you dont want it. OTOH it does work well at bleeding off boost for you though so maybe I should try it

You really should try that Z06 cam for the heck of it..
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 02:30 PM
  #29  
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LOL. I'll send it to you once its out of the car. Just waiting to move into our new house to install the ZO6 cam. The firebird is sitting in a wet snowy driveway Can't wait to have an enclosed garage to work in

Seriously tho, i'll send it.
J
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by frcefed98
LOL. I'll send it to you once its out of the car. Just waiting to move into our new house to install the ZO6 cam. The firebird is sitting in a wet snowy driveway Can't wait to have an enclosed garage to work in

Seriously tho, i'll send it.
J
Figured the house was taking priority, I bet it makes a big difference. I didnt realize you still had that honkin blower cam in there.
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 03:07 PM
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not trying to thread jack but since you all are talking about cams. Does this sound like a good cam I am currently running? It's a crane Z cam quick lift. duration is 224 224 advertised is 286 286 lift is 551 551 on a I believe it's on a 114. I have a 402 with 8.2to 1cr with patriot Stage 3 6.0 heads. Also have a new PT88.
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 03:08 PM
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the cam is out of my old 347. just swithc it over.
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 02SSLE
not trying to thread jack but since you all are talking about cams. Does this sound like a good cam I am currently running? It's a crane Z cam quick lift. duration is 224 224 advertised is 286 286 lift is 551 551 on a I believe it's on a 114. I have a 402 with 8.2to 1cr with patriot Stage 3 6.0 heads. Also have a new PT88.
Probably could go a little larger with a PT88 but I'm sure it will work pretty decent. Best thing to do is try it, I'd rather start with too small a cam then too big..
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 06:08 PM
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KP, what size cam are you running? Where do you shift at?
O-ringing the heads with the MLS gaskets has worked for me and a buddy of mine who is running a D1 and nitrous. I've ran my stock casting heads that way for a couple years. All the way to 29psi and 20* of timing. Sometimes this can happen in 1st gear.
I wouldn't give up on the F1 yet. Your not hurting anything. You just need to find a way to keep the heads down.
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by TwnTrboCE
KP, what size cam are you running? Where do you shift at?
O-ringing the heads with the MLS gaskets has worked for me and a buddy of mine who is running a D1 and nitrous. I've ran my stock casting heads that way for a couple years. All the way to 29psi and 20* of timing. Sometimes this can happen in 1st gear.
I wouldn't give up on the F1 yet. Your not hurting anything. You just need to find a way to keep the heads down.
Its a 222/228 115LSA XE cam, .550 lift or so.

I shift at 7000 1-2 and 6800 2-3.

It could be happening in first gear I agree, its pretty rough getting the timing curve right where the blower is climbing fast. But its 60 footing great so it cant be too far off.

I need to get some better fuel I think, this last drum (sunoco 112) I bought came out of the ground and it just doesnt seem right the way its coloring everything, it even smells weird. I'm going to try to get a sealed smaller drum of C16 and back off the timing, richen it up and just work my way up a little at a time. I guess its close enough where I can take another shot at it while its still cool out

what size o-ring wire are you guys using and how much are you leaving it stick out? Stainless, annealed or copper wire? I'll have to find someone around here to do it but I guess it cant hurt to try it and get the heads surfaced anyhow.
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by kp
Its a 222/228 115LSA XE cam, .550 lift or so.

what size o-ring wire are you guys using and how much are you leaving it stick out? Stainless, annealed or copper wire? I'll have to find someone around here to do it but I guess it cant hurt to try it and get the heads surfaced anyhow.
I'd say your leaving some on the table with that cam.

Bit bigger cam and shifting it a little higher would make a big difference with the F1.

I'll have to find out the info on the o-rings. Like I said it was done a couple years ago. I need to anyways. I'm having my Darts done now also. I do know it's a stainless wire.
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by TwnTrboCE
I'd say your leaving some on the table with that cam.

Bit bigger cam and shifting it a little higher would make a big difference with the F1.

I'll have to find out the info on the o-rings. Like I said it was done a couple years ago. I need to anyways. I'm having my Darts done now also. I do know it's a stainless wire.
If you could find out what worked for you that would make my life easier, if it sticks out too far it just cuts the gasket and not enough and it doesnt do anything. Dont have nothing to lose by trying it if I can find someone around here to do it - most shops run away from LSx stuff around here, if its not a SBF or SBC they dont want to touch it

I varied the shift points all over and thats what worked the best with the D1, F1 may be different but I only have 2 passes on it so I havent experimented much. I leave that cam because I may try that NMCA street race class and they have a .550 lift max so I havent changed it. With a stock oiling system I really dont want to be hanging around above 7000rpm in 2nd and 3rd though.
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr Powell
Sounds like a job for ICS Titans.. Won't blow a headgasket then
Why not oring the heads with MLS gasket and keep driving. The ring stucks off about .09-.011. Just enough to keep things sealed and it can be done for relatively cheap.
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by TwnTrboCE
I'd say your leaving some on the table with that cam.

Bit bigger cam and shifting it a little higher would make a big difference with the F1.

I'll have to find out the info on the o-rings. Like I said it was done a couple years ago. I need to anyways. I'm having my Darts done now also. I do know it's a stainless wire.


MIke who's doing your heads now???? You remember how much it runs to O-Ring them???
It sounds like something id like to look into also.

Kyle
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 10:33 PM
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3 years ago I paid $125 to have them O-Ringed... ummm, maybe that was 125 per head. Anyway, that was through Absolute.
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