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What compression should the cylinders be in a low compression FI motor?

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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 03:57 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by 2000 Tran Zam
And yes I know the 80% rule, but this 110% DC from what i understand was only for a split second here and there when the car was dynoed.
If it was only for a split second on the dyno, then it could be for seconds at a time on the street. Think about the fact that the injectors can not be open for more than 100% of the time. So, if the computer is commanding 110%, then the injectors are going static at 100% and you are 10% lean.
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000 Tran Zam
And yes I know the 80% rule, but this 110% DC from what i understand was only for a split second here and there when the car was dynoed.
If it was hitting that on just the dyno, then you were definitely in trouble on the street.

Running on the dyno is like running the 4 yard dash. Yes, four....




I would cringe to see where those injectors were cycling at in a 3-4-5 gear pull in that video posted a few weeks ago.
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 09:15 PM
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I like to see additional knock protection added for hi-boost/pump gas, like the J&S Safeguard or another intelligent knock controller.

Oh well, like they say:

"Good judgement comes from experience."

"Experience comes from bad judgement."

I hope it's repairable for ya.

Jim
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by DeltaT
I like to see additional knock protection added for hi-boost/pump gas, like the J&S Safeguard or another intelligent knock controller.

Oh well, like they say:

"Good judgement comes from experience."

"Experience comes from bad judgement."

I hope it's repairable for ya.

Jim
Anything is repairable... just means how much is it gonna cost to repair, lol.
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 03:49 PM
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2000, what's your name by the way? I'm guessing you are in your early 20's? You have a pretty amazing build there and I'm sure it's been a blast to drive the car. Good luck, and I hope that it's nothing major though smashed plug tips is a bad sign that something is going on.
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Old Feb 28, 2007 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000 Tran Zam
And yes I know the 80% rule, but this 110% DC from what i understand was only for a split second here and there when the car was dynoed.


A split second is all it takes.....



hope it works out for ya....
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 02:45 PM
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Sorry to hear about this bro...
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 02:57 PM
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time to make her

BIGGER

BETTER

FASTER!

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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by VINCE
Sorry to hear about this bro...
Ehh, **** happens. Motors can be fixed... Good thing nothing took a crap while I was doing 170
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
time to make her

BIGGER

BETTER

FASTER!

****, I'll take more reliable for 500 Alex!! lol.
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 03:15 PM
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Can you drop the compression any for when you rebuild? If you are going to/if you need to.
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 03:25 PM
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Im sure that if anything at least that one piston is fucked up, so I'll need to replace at least that.

I think compression should have been fine... 8.5 isnt a **** ton, I guess the extra boost must have just leaned it out.

Would it be worth me dropping to 8.3 or 8.0 or something?
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 03:33 PM
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I'd focus on fuel and a pound or two less boost (after you're running again, you can revisit a dyno WITH A WIDEBAND and know you're safe). ~8.5 should be fine.. 8.1 would help out, but it's not really worth pitching forth the money since new fuel goodies will do the trick to fix it..

That's just my opinion.
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 04:08 PM
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i have a generalized question.how much do most shops charge for a rebuild on something like that.like if you had 1 screwed up piston or needed new rings or something?
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
i have a generalized question.how much do most shops charge for a rebuild on something like that.like if you had 1 screwed up piston or needed new rings or something?
I dunno, I'll let you know when I find out, lol.
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
i have a generalized question.how much do most shops charge for a rebuild on something like that.like if you had 1 screwed up piston or needed new rings or something?
I've replaced single pistons in my car before. I don't even pull the engine. $200 and one day's work and I'm back in business!
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by engineermike
I've replaced single pistons in my car before. I don't even pull the engine. $200 and one day's work and I'm back in business!
WTF?can you give me a breakdown on how you do that?i didnt realize that was possible,time effective
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 08:09 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
WTF?can you give me a breakdown on how you do that?i didnt realize that was possible,time effective
Well, keep in mind, mine is LTx, not LSx. Here's how it goes:

- Remove intake manifold
- Remove valve cover and valvetrain on offending side
- Remove exhaust header on offending side
- Remove cylinder head on offending side
- Remove driver's side motor mount bolt
- Lift engine as high as you can (maybe 3" on driver's side)
- Remove oil pan
- Remove rod bolts and rod cap
- Remove offending piston
- Replace piston
- Assemble in reverse order

That's it!

Mike
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 08:30 PM
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can that be done on an LS fbody?
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
can that be done on an LS fbody?

yes it can be done
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