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What compression should the cylinders be in a low compression FI motor?

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Old 03-09-2007 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
2000, what's your name by the way? I'm guessing you are in your early 20's? You have a pretty amazing build there and I'm sure it's been a blast to drive the car. Good luck, and I hope that it's nothing major though smashed plug tips is a bad sign that something is going on.
My names Alan

Ya, just turned 23 last month. Thank you for the kind words, I know you've been on the forums since before I knew tech existed, lol.

Im hoping since it seems to be just one plug that keeps getting fucked up that its something thats not too bad, maybe a fucked up piston or ringland and hopefully the block is still salvagable.

I think from now on Im gonna try to always run at least a 1/4 tank of 101 just in case... I wonder if that would have prevented anything during my WOT pulls at the time it was running over 100% DC...
Old 03-09-2007 | 12:07 PM
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I avoided coming into this thread as I don't have anything to do with this car, just helped make a few pulls on the rollers. I feel the need to clarify a few things though that have been mentioned. The MAP signal was bouncing around a bit at WOT a bit and was causing the duty cycle to hit at times over 100%, but most of the time it was around the mid 90s. The A/F was off the chart rich while this was happening. The map signal bouncing around and the high boost was just causing the blips over 100% duty cycle, it wasn't constant. The amount of boost that was being run with the amount of timing it was hitting was the dangerous part IMO. I mentioned I would be running race gas with that much boost and not our shitty 91 oct pump gas. It sounds to me like a broken ringland/piston.

Anyways, just a few thoughts from somebody who helped out with the pulls and datalogged a bit.
Old 03-09-2007 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by NicD
I avoided coming into this thread as I don't have anything to do with this car, just helped make a few pulls on the rollers. I feel the need to clarify a few things though that have been mentioned. The MAP signal was bouncing around a bit at WOT a bit and was causing the duty cycle to hit at times over 100%, but most of the time it was around the mid 90s. The A/F was off the chart rich while this was happening. The map signal bouncing around and the high boost was just causing the blips over 100% duty cycle, it wasn't constant. The amount of boost that was being run with the amount of timing it was hitting was the dangerous part IMO. I mentioned I would be running race gas with that much boost and not our shitty 91 oct pump gas. It sounds to me like a broken ringland/piston.

Anyways, just a few thoughts from somebody who helped out with the pulls and datalogged a bit.
Good info. Wish you had chimed in earlier, that explains things a bit.
Old 03-09-2007 | 01:32 PM
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I'd run 15psi + a safe tune with pump gas, and run the 900rwhp tune with straight race gas.
Old 03-09-2007 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
I'd run 15psi + a safe tune with pump gas, and run the 900rwhp tune with straight race gas.
the 15psi run WAS the 900 rwhp setting, lol.

I dunno if it was taking off the exhuast running open dp like you had mentioned earlier Nic that could have increased boost from the 13.5 lb setting to 15 or higher...
Old 03-10-2007 | 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 2000 Tran Zam
I dunno if it was taking off the exhuast running open dp like you had mentioned earlier Nic that could have increased boost from the 13.5 lb setting to 15 or higher...
Most definately
Old 03-10-2007 | 10:13 AM
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Either you popped the top of a valve off, or the top of a piston. If it's the latter the damage to the block can be significant. In the former case, it's not good either but there is more of a chance that the block lived.

Honestly you'll know once you have the head off.

Well I guess 15psi for me (lil 346), and 10 psi for you.
Old 03-11-2007 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Either you popped the top of a valve off, or the top of a piston. If it's the latter the damage to the block can be significant. In the former case, it's not good either but there is more of a chance that the block lived.

Honestly you'll know once you have the head off.

Well I guess 15psi for me (lil 346), and 10 psi for you.

If thats the case, when i pull the head and the piston is toast ,will i need to pull the motor to fix it or can i just swap that out?
Old 03-11-2007 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000 Tran Zam
If thats the case, when i pull the head and the piston is toast ,will i need to pull the motor to fix it or can i just swap that out?
you'll be pulling the motor if the piston is toast. you may even have block damage you cant see till you get the heads off.
Old 03-11-2007 | 10:23 PM
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Here's a couple of my thoughts. I think a dyno doesn't load a car the way it does on the street or the track. The dyno pulls are very short and there's no wind resistance.

GAS GAS GAS, 91 octane is going to keep killing you at those power levels, end of story!!!!

Just pull the motor, your not going to repair your problems in the car. Also stop turning the car over, your problem isn't going to go away.

It seems that you drive the car alot and like to drive it hard, I would back the power level down to 700-750 hp. Save the higher boost levels for good race fuel.

I think your pushing the limits on your injectors. I run TWO A1000 fuel pumps and 96lb injectors .

Your car is cool, your learning the hard way about a 1000hp daily driver pipe dream. You have to watch everthing close and give your right foot a break every once in a while! lol

Good luck, you will get it sorted out!

Andy.
Old 03-12-2007 | 11:46 AM
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This man speaks the truth.



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