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Should it be forged?

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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 07:39 PM
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Default Should it be forged?

I'm part way into a heavy mod session. My C5 has the heads, cam, exhaust, rear, tranny, and clutch out. I'm changing all that out with better parts to support a Vortech S trim that will run only 6 lbs boost. That leaves a bare shortblock just sitting there in the engine bay. I keep asking myself if I should pull it out and add forged pistons and rods. Things will never be easier than right now. My old friend has had a performance shop (old school dragsters and such.) for 25 years. I'm thinking of taking it out and just having him change out those parts. Any thoughts? Assuming a "go for it", manufacturers, prices and vendors would be highly appreciated.
Thanks, Tom
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 07:47 PM
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You will never regret overbuilding it now, but you might regret underbuilding it later... Plus the hassle of removing everything already get you 70% of they way there. It's almost a no-brainer unless you have a serious cash problem. I'd even dip into the credit card to finish by this point...

Jim
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 07:49 PM
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Thanks Jim. Any advice on specific parts and where to look for a vendor?
I should add that I've read that my stock crank is just fine for my mild setup.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by madeouttaglass
I'm part way into a heavy mod session. My C5 has the heads, cam, exhaust, rear, tranny, and clutch out. I'm changing all that out with better parts to support a Vortech S trim that will run only 6 lbs boost. That leaves a bare shortblock just sitting there in the engine bay. I keep asking myself if I should pull it out and add forged pistons and rods. Things will never be easier than right now. My old friend has had a performance shop (old school dragsters and such.) for 25 years. I'm thinking of taking it out and just having him change out those parts. Any thoughts? Assuming a "go for it", manufacturers, prices and vendors would be highly appreciated.
Thanks, Tom
Go for it

Give us a call at Weber Racing Equipment, we have been building race engines for 35+ years, with a great amount of LSx based engine experience.

Shoot me a PM, or visit us at Weberracing.net and check out our site (Though the site is still in the works, it gives a good idea of products we carry and background on the company.).
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 07:54 PM
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A forged piston, H beam rod swap wil save you a big hassle/expanse later. I like Eagle for rods and Diamond or JE for pistons. Don't forget the ARP fasteners and you'll be set. Enjoy the 6 lbs setup and when you're ready for more later,you're just a pulley swap away.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 07:58 PM
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+1 for what Whistler said. That's what I am running - forged Eagle rods, JE blower/nitrous pistons, Speed-Pro moly rings, 4340 crank, Clevite 77 bearings.

Jim
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 08:00 PM
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I see many $$ signs floating away. Vendors, prices, and opinions on the stock crank please. Thanks everyone.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 08:05 PM
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Here's the only price I've seen. I know you guys know better deals.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-L...spagenameZWDVW
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 06:23 AM
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The stock crank will handle the power, I have never seen one break. Check out our engine build on these two C5's. http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=40
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=26 Bob
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 02:26 PM
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Thanks for the info. I read that first article a while back.- Nice work.
I'm still looking for more opinions and suggestions for vendors.
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 01:52 AM
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Originally Posted by madeouttaglass
I'm part way into a heavy mod session. My C5 has the heads, cam, exhaust, rear, tranny, and clutch out. I'm changing all that out with better parts to support a Vortech S trim that will run only 6 lbs boost. That leaves a bare shortblock just sitting there in the engine bay. I keep asking myself if I should pull it out and add forged pistons and rods. Things will never be easier than right now. My old friend has had a performance shop (old school dragsters and such.) for 25 years. I'm thinking of taking it out and just having him change out those parts. Any thoughts? Assuming a "go for it", manufacturers, prices and vendors would be highly appreciated.
Thanks, Tom
Do it now or you will probably regret it, although the factory bottom can handle 6 psi with ease. You will not be satisfied with 6 psi forever, and will want to up the boost. Common symptom of FI, "More is Never Enough". I know I am living on borrowed time, just kept modding and now wish I would have gone forged from the beginning. Pay Now or Pay More Later. Peace of mind does have a price on it, but it is worth every penny. Scoggins & Dickey & Texas Speed are just a couple of places that are at the top of MY list to call. Good Luck with Your Build.
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 10:45 AM
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yes i say go with gettint it done onw if you have the $$$$ im not yet causei dont have the $$$ but if i could i would!!!
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 12:06 PM
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I've been talking to a few other experienced people and right now it looks like I might just go with a set of forged pistons from Mehle or JE. Keep the opinions coming.
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by madeouttaglass
I've been talking to a few other experienced people and right now it looks like I might just go with a set of forged pistons from Mehle or JE. Keep the opinions coming.

Don't forget the ARP or Katech rod bolts
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by NemesisC5

Don't forget the ARP or Katech rod bolts
I thought that was only for the older LS engines? Mine's an '04.
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by madeouttaglass
I thought that was only for the older LS engines? Mine's an '04.
It is, but while the pistons are out I would upgrade from factory. I may be wrong, but from what I understand you should not re-use factory rod bolts in a forged build. Just "good practice", if you are like me & most, you will forever have mod fever and will always want more ! !
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