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Fireball FI98x Turbo Build

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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 08:39 AM
  #81  
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4 bar??? I thought he said we were getting 2 - 5 bar map sensors last night?
Old Jul 27, 2009 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Phil99vette
4 bar??? I thought he said we were getting 2 - 5 bar map sensors last night?
hell yeah
Old Jul 27, 2009 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Fireball
most 275 rules around here only allow a true 88 (if they allow a turbo at all), so sleeves are out...

Shawn just wants to turn up the **** more...we need a 4-bar map though
oh ok gotcha, our 275 stuff is twin 80's or single 106 so therefore I thought you were good on that aspect.

Get the 4 bar and turn that baby up. I want to see 4's.

Now back to the nitrous section I go before I go and spend a lot of money.
Old Jul 27, 2009 | 05:59 PM
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I see said the blind man...found the chafed wire causing the coil fuse to blow...it was on the miniharness connecting the BS3 harness to each coil pack...
Old Jul 28, 2009 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Fireball
I see said the blind man...found the chafed wire causing the coil fuse to blow...it was on the miniharness connecting the BS3 harness to each coil pack...

Its the little crap that will drive you insane.
Old Jul 28, 2009 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Fireball
I see said the blind man...found the chafed wire causing the coil fuse to blow...it was on the miniharness connecting the BS3 harness to each coil pack...
Are you going to remove the external reluctor you put on and go back to the basics to see if this was the problem all along?
Old Jul 28, 2009 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
Are you going to remove the external reluctor you put on and go back to the basics to see if this was the problem all along?
no...because the reluctor fixed other issues (it stabilized the boost)...
Old Jul 28, 2009 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Fireball
no...because the reluctor fixed other issues (it stabilized the boost)...
I'm confused. Perhaps you or someone else can explain to me how the reluctor is stabilizing boost. My understanding is that the PCM uses the reluctor position vs spark advance in order to determine when it should fire the coils. If you had an ignition wiring problem, how do you know if this other setup really helped anything or not? I understand if it is a huge pain in the *** to go back to the old setup due to wiring but would love to know if something like this is REQUIRED in order to play at that power level. KYTP is putting together a twin 70mm kit as we speak that I will be involved in making it work and responsible for the tuning. I'd like to circumvent any possible pitfalls before they come up.
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 02:12 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
I'm confused. Perhaps you or someone else can explain to me how the reluctor is stabilizing boost. My understanding is that the PCM uses the reluctor position vs spark advance in order to determine when it should fire the coils. If you had an ignition wiring problem, how do you know if this other setup really helped anything or not? I understand if it is a huge pain in the *** to go back to the old setup due to wiring but would love to know if something like this is REQUIRED in order to play at that power level. KYTP is putting together a twin 70mm kit as we speak that I will be involved in making it work and responsible for the tuning. I'd like to circumvent any possible pitfalls before they come up.
I have no problem sharing experiences, but I'm not playing guinea pig


try it with the factory stuff...if it don't work then switch
Old Jul 28, 2009 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
I'm confused. Perhaps you or someone else can explain to me how the reluctor is stabilizing boost. My understanding is that the PCM uses the reluctor position vs spark advance in order to determine when it should fire the coils. If you had an ignition wiring problem, how do you know if this other setup really helped anything or not? I understand if it is a huge pain in the *** to go back to the old setup due to wiring but would love to know if something like this is REQUIRED in order to play at that power level. KYTP is putting together a twin 70mm kit as we speak that I will be involved in making it work and responsible for the tuning. I'd like to circumvent any possible pitfalls before they come up.
If your using the factory PCM, you can't use this setup anyways. BS3 and the factory PCM are different creatures.
Old Jul 28, 2009 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil99vette
If your using the factory PCM, you can't use this setup anyways. BS3 and the factory PCM are different creatures.
I understand that the BS3 is different from the stock PCM and if this setup is required in order for proper spark control then an aftermarket EMS will have to be used as well. Do you run this reluctor setup on your car?
Old Jul 28, 2009 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
I understand that the BS3 is different from the stock PCM and if this setup is required in order for proper spark control then an aftermarket EMS will have to be used as well. Do you run this reluctor setup on your car?
he runs an MSD flying magnet wheel and a distributor
Old Jul 28, 2009 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Fireball
he runs an MSD flying magnet wheel and a distributor
Even less stockish LOL.
Old Jul 28, 2009 | 02:58 PM
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the chaffed coil wire is a totally new problem,the old problem was cured with the frt reluctor wheel.going back to the internal reluctor wheel will result in the same problem as before.
Old Jul 28, 2009 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Shawn @ VA Speed
the chaffed coil wire is a totally new problem,the old problem was cured with the frt reluctor wheel.going back to the internal reluctor wheel will result in the same problem as before.
So the reluctor was the cure for the backfiring/breaking up at high RPM and the wire caused the no start/blowing fuses. I think I got it now.
Old Jul 28, 2009 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
So the reluctor was the cure for the backfiring/breaking up at high RPM and the wire caused the no start/blowing fuses. I think I got it now.
Yes and No. You need the reluctor wheel and Shawns bracket.
Old Jul 28, 2009 | 08:54 PM
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Fireball,
Are you still using the stock coil packs?

With the front mount reluctor wheel and pickup does this allow you to rev the engine higher? If so what are you revving the engine to now?
Old Jul 29, 2009 | 06:25 AM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by brobards
Fireball,
Are you still using the stock coil packs?

With the front mount reluctor wheel and pickup does this allow you to rev the engine higher? If so what are you revving the engine to now?
truck coils

hoping to be able to rev it higher....8000 rpm shift point right now...
Old Jul 29, 2009 | 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Shawn @ VA Speed
the chaffed coil wire is a totally new problem,the old problem was cured with the frt reluctor wheel.going back to the internal reluctor wheel will result in the same problem as before.
don't think it was a "new" problem...it didn't chafe overnight

think it was just a compounded set of problems (A, B and C). I've addressed A&B and hopefully have now fixed C
Old Jul 29, 2009 | 07:37 AM
  #100  
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it obviously never grounded out before,or it would have blown the fuse earlier-these are 2 totally separate problems



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