school me for boosting on transbrake
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,018
Likes: 51
From: Virginia
school me for boosting on transbrake 
it took 5.3 seconds once 100% throttle stabbed to make 7psi boost, was 3.2 seconds to make 3.5 psi
from left to right
Boost from 0 to 7
A/F went from 13 to 12.6
Timing went from 26 to 21
rpm went from 2100 to 3400
everything seems rather great to me when considering proper a/f and timing at X boost level.
i need to get this 5 seconds down to around 1.5 seconds (sportsman tree)
what to try? it seems like it builds too slow to put the 2 step any higher than 2500rpms.
Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
i need to get this 5 seconds down to around 1.5 seconds (sportsman tree)
Ugh, g'luck with that
I say burnout fast and get yer *** to the tree son 
Nice to see things working though
Can you trigger the BS3 to pull timing? Say when your transbrake is active it pulls 20 degrees of timing?
***********
Found my own answer, change "starting line timing" to -2 across the board. negative timing will make the turbo spool quick from what all of the import guys are telling me.
Phil
***********
Found my own answer, change "starting line timing" to -2 across the board. negative timing will make the turbo spool quick from what all of the import guys are telling me.
Phil
a 3 step....and MORE timing.....try like 35 or so....and then ramp it down quickly once you are off the tbrake. without a 3 step you are gonna have to hold the brakes hard and stall up as much as you can....prestage....and then tbrake to stage. Got any coating/cover on the exhaust housing? Timing is what will help you most with what you already have. Remember the incon originally used a stock tune for 4.5-5 psi when it came out and that was for stock compression and 93 octane gas
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,018
Likes: 51
From: Virginia
so you are saying run 35 degrees of timing at 7psi of boost? doesnt sound like a good idea to me.
i can upgrade to a 3 step yes, just hoped things didnt have to get more complicated.
i could drop timing sure, i have a separate starting line timing grid i could use, but that should only work best for manual trans cars, like cable said i read autos want to add timing.. but im not really interested in detonating on the line.
i can upgrade to a 3 step yes, just hoped things didnt have to get more complicated.
i could drop timing sure, i have a separate starting line timing grid i could use, but that should only work best for manual trans cars, like cable said i read autos want to add timing.. but im not really interested in detonating on the line.
Just like I sent in the PM, why not try the 3 step...
1 second of 20 degrees of timing retard forthe first stage
2 seconds of normal timing
third stage will never be seen.
1 second of 20 degrees of timing retard forthe first stage
2 seconds of normal timing
third stage will never be seen.
stick cars remove timing....pull timing in an auto and see how sluggish it leaves even though it has boost. I am only telling you what has worked for me....i guess you have no way to watch kr but i bet you dont get kr at 7 psi on the tbrake with a l/c motor and race gas. PM Mike Brown and see if he will give you some tips....keep searching TM.com and youll see the auto guys that get down use more timing on the tbrake than a N/A car uses normally. I will log mine tomorrow in the driveway....I have a 2400 stall and 1.32 a/r exhaust for comparison.....open exhaust will help a bunch too. If you have a 3 step already....set the first limiter to whatever the brakes will hold...prolly 2800...then 4000rpms or whatever once you are staged
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Dave, I've heard that thing about adding timing too, my car boosts like yours does. I'm thinking if you throw more timing at it on the 'brake that's okay since there is no load?
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,018
Likes: 51
From: Virginia
thats the thing john, there is load.. the load is in the middle of the map just like it would be if i floored it. if i upped the timing in this region it would certainly cross this spot again during normal spirited driving on pump gas.. could be bad.. i think the only way to do it is set a separate start line timing spot up in bs3.
my car pushes the front tires at 2k on the foot brake.
thanks for the info on here and pms i would like to keep it all on here so everyone can beneifit.
my car pushes the front tires at 2k on the foot brake.
thanks for the info on here and pms i would like to keep it all on here so everyone can beneifit.
Throw 30 degrees at it on the t-brake. Get on the two step in the prestage, set it to what the brakes will hold, while still on the two step stage it and go onto the t-brake soon as you get in if you are 2nd in the beams. It'll come on boost REAL fast compared to what you have now. You'll have no issues with detonation etc with good gas.
Check with the turbomustang guys...as I saw you posted the same over there, that was good advice they put out.
Also I think the main thing, is a looser converter makes everything way easier...
Check with the turbomustang guys...as I saw you posted the same over there, that was good advice they put out.
Also I think the main thing, is a looser converter makes everything way easier...
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: In the garage
I have 2 programs..1 for street and another for C16 with different fuel and timing maps. I switch programs in my FAST before running pump gas.
If your pushing the car at 2k then the converter may really be too tight. I can 3 step my Regal at 3200 with the stock brakes and it never tries to push. I have a Strange manual cylinder with stock brakes.
What rpm does the motor drop too when you shift?
If your pushing the car at 2k then the converter may really be too tight. I can 3 step my Regal at 3200 with the stock brakes and it never tries to push. I have a Strange manual cylinder with stock brakes.
What rpm does the motor drop too when you shift?
I'm sure it's different with a single, I set my two step at 3000 and it 1.29's. At 3200 rpm it blows the tires? I don't change the timing file. Have you tried to raise the two step on the t-brake? Mine really goes nuts with the two step.
Originally Posted by Phil99vette
Can you trigger the BS3 to pull timing? Say when your transbrake is active it pulls 20 degrees of timing?
Best way to spool fast on the start line is a 50 shot of juice after engaging the t-brake. It's what I'm going to be doing next month, no more waiting.
Do this
http://home.comcast.net/~brandont/tk808.wmv
Listen to the motor, and watch the stage lights. That's 5 psi minimum before the first beam, 2 step at ~4000 if memory serves (only active on the brake). It leaves at 13ish psi on the brake. You can hear the ramp to 2X psi about the 60 foot. Fun with the staging timing table, fueling, etc.
Do some squats, and work on your leg muscles I'm afraid Tom's gonna bend the brake pedal this season 
http://home.comcast.net/~brandont/tk808.wmv
Listen to the motor, and watch the stage lights. That's 5 psi minimum before the first beam, 2 step at ~4000 if memory serves (only active on the brake). It leaves at 13ish psi on the brake. You can hear the ramp to 2X psi about the 60 foot. Fun with the staging timing table, fueling, etc.
Do some squats, and work on your leg muscles
I'm afraid Tom's gonna bend the brake pedal this season my brakes wouldnt hold more than 2800rpms with the incons...dunno what it will hold now but i will see sunday. Mightymouse, dont change converters yet.....I dont think yours is too tight....
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,018
Likes: 51
From: Virginia
onfire there was no 2 step used at all on that log, that is why the rpm keeps going up
all the brakes will hold is 2k, i dont want to 2 step at 2krpm
plan for today
-find how to flip into the start line timing table on bs3 so i don't upset my normal driving timing map, i also don't know what tells this to turn off and resume to regular map
if i can get the second map to come in then i will add 5 degrees for starters there (making it 31* at 0 boost and 26 at 7psi)
-pretend i'm footbraking into the beams hard as i can, then go on the t brake and floor it (start recording then)
between those two (still not on 2 step at any point) i will see where it puts me. should be noticeable
then if i can get into the beams say at 2k, and go straight to 2500 or 3k on the brake, it may be high enough to run the two step at that point to stop the rpms and get a consistent launch.
all the brakes will hold is 2k, i dont want to 2 step at 2krpm
plan for today
-find how to flip into the start line timing table on bs3 so i don't upset my normal driving timing map, i also don't know what tells this to turn off and resume to regular map
if i can get the second map to come in then i will add 5 degrees for starters there (making it 31* at 0 boost and 26 at 7psi)
-pretend i'm footbraking into the beams hard as i can, then go on the t brake and floor it (start recording then)
between those two (still not on 2 step at any point) i will see where it puts me. should be noticeable
then if i can get into the beams say at 2k, and go straight to 2500 or 3k on the brake, it may be high enough to run the two step at that point to stop the rpms and get a consistent launch.
Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
onfire there was no 2 step used at all on that log, that is why the rpm keeps going up
all the brakes will hold is 2k, i dont want to 2 step at 2krpm
plan for today
-find how to flip into the start line timing table on bs3 so i don't upset my normal driving timing map, i also don't know what tells this to turn off and resume to regular map
if i can get the second map to come in then i will add 5 degrees for starters there (making it 31* at 0 boost and 26 at 7psi)
-pretend i'm footbraking into the beams hard as i can, then go on the t brake and floor it (start recording then)
between those two (still not on 2 step at any point) i will see where it puts me. should be noticeable
then if i can get into the beams say at 2k, and go straight to 2500 or 3k on the brake, it may be high enough to run the two step at that point to stop the rpms and get a consistent launch.
all the brakes will hold is 2k, i dont want to 2 step at 2krpm
plan for today
-find how to flip into the start line timing table on bs3 so i don't upset my normal driving timing map, i also don't know what tells this to turn off and resume to regular map
if i can get the second map to come in then i will add 5 degrees for starters there (making it 31* at 0 boost and 26 at 7psi)
-pretend i'm footbraking into the beams hard as i can, then go on the t brake and floor it (start recording then)
between those two (still not on 2 step at any point) i will see where it puts me. should be noticeable
then if i can get into the beams say at 2k, and go straight to 2500 or 3k on the brake, it may be high enough to run the two step at that point to stop the rpms and get a consistent launch.
Quick test is to set the 2 step at 2800 and go wot on the TB. It should build boost faster than the test above.