onfire

iTrader: (17)

Can you seal the fans to the radiator to make sure all of their flow is though the rad? Any airflow that isn't forced through the rad is wasted. I dropped my idle temps 15 degrees by using ductape to close the holes caused by my Incon IC pipes....made a huge thermal difference.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I run a stock water pump, the Meziere race water pump will not work in regular street driving.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I edited the title.

THE_SUPRA

agreed, same idea as taking the hood off to reduce temps, and it actually raises them.

TS6

iTrader: (41)

I run the street EWP, but lots of guys use it w/o problems. I had it before when I was H/C and it worked fine. Besides, wouldn't comprimised water flow show up at high speeds too?

I spoke to another member today who used his stock fan shroud with an LT1 fan swapped on the driver side (its shorter), also relocated up higher. I might try it, although I have alot of fan now.

I made some more shrouding just now, to block off where the radiator is exposed to the engine bay on each side. It didn't help, but I suppose the lack of any shroud besides that is killing me. My IC needs to be moved forward some, I'm not sure why they mounted it so close to the radiator, but opening that gap could only help. Right now I have about a 2.5" gap between the ic and the radiator support where the airdam meets it. Otherwise all the air is coming from the grill opening, through the ic of course.

1BADAIR

iTrader: (1)

do you have an underdrive pulley?

TS6

iTrader: (41)

No, stock. Wouldn't matter anyway, except with my voltage.

Anyone know where I can get a smaller alternator pulley?

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

I missed the front mount intercooler. The problem is you took the plastic damn off that closed in the radiator inlet side.Now the air is circulating from the engine to the front of the radiator.When driving the ram air affect gets rid of it.You need to make something to close that area in.

1BADAIR

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I was asking for the voltage.
I think most underdrive pulley manufacters make alt pulleys

kp

iTrader: (34)

If you arent going to run a/c move the radiator forward and put the stock fans on, NOTHING I have seen works as well as them..

Putting a pusher fan in front probably hurt more then helped.

The EWPs move way more more water at idle then a stock pump, if it was overheating on the highway I would suspect the pump.

200* at idle isnt bad, I have heard people say their LSx never gets over 180 degrees on a 90 degree day but I never seen one. I have owned 6 of them myself from everything from a solid roller 414 iron block, 2 head/cam stock shortblock and three ATI supercharged LS1 cars and I never was able to get a STOCK LS1 to run at 180 degrees at idle over 75 degrees out.

I have no idea about your voltage, I have just as much stuff running and the battery in the back and my voltage doesnt drop that low, something is wrong there. Its normal for the voltage to drop some at idle, its not going to hold at 13.5 volts at idle with all the stuff running.

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

My old combo had a stock radiator and my current combo has a stock radiator. Both 408ci setups.

TS6

iTrader: (41)

Yeah, stock fans are going back on. I'm going to tilt the radiator forward and get those bastards in there, and I'm going to move my ic forward another 2-3 inches. That should also allow me to put a bigger inlet on the blower, which I doubt will do much but might net me a few ponies on the dyno--where REAL racing happens, hahahaha.......

I just need to figure out if I should make a shroud to seal the radiator to the underside only or allow it to draw through the bottom and the front, through the ic. I really see no reason why allowing it to draw from both areas would hurt, but hell, I've been wrong thus far!

KP, I doubt the pusher fan hurt per se, since its not really blocking anything off (no shroud). I took a cue from the turbo guys who use pushers only, some had to add a puller to get temps down. I figure it works both ways. All 3 fans running might keep temps in check, but man, at idle the voltage drops so low the car feels like its gonna die or something.

Hey, anyone have their (intact) stock shrouds? Mine got kinda destroyed. At least I have the stock fans still.

TS6

iTrader: (41)

Also wanna say a big thank you to a guy named Andy, who contacted me via PM. He called me and explained how he got his stock fans, D1SC, stock radiator, A/C, SDCE, and a 4" air inlet to fit on his 2002 camaro. Then he went out and took pictures and emailed them to me. I won't mention his screen name so he doesn't get pounded with requests, but he has very few posts and I think kinda reads more than posts. He really went out of his way to help, thanks man!

And thanks to everyone else who is helping, and for listening to my whining.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

can you post the pictures.... some one will if you get it to the right persone... *cough PSJ cough*

TS6

iTrader: (41)

If Andy says its OK I'll post them....

94blownz281

iTrader: (12)

when i just threw away the plastic shroud under the car that your talking bout.. this is the large area thats right behind the airdam and connects next to it?? my motor is in pieces so won't be driving it anytime soon. i always wondered what those little ram air type vents where for.. opps

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

Antifreeze is simply that. Distilled water like you are running will shed heat a lot quicker than propelyne glycol or a mix. Water Wetter does work and also replaces most of the corrosion inhibitors that you lose by deleting your antifreeze. Unles you live where you need to worry about freezing temps, stick with ditilled H2O and Water Wetter.

Griffin makes radiators larger or with bigger or thicker cores than are advertised on Summit. Check the Griffin site closely and you will see P/N's for higher capacity radiators. I am using a 31" x 19" but with a dual 1.5" core, that is rated to 1000HP. Got it through Summit but I had to know what to ask for.

Also, I am running Evans waterless coolant, which boils at like 370 degrees. Between the Griffin rad and the Evans coolant, I have overcooling issues which are much easier to address.

Jim

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

PLEASE post the pics of how to get the stock fans and shroud in! It needs to be made a sticky in this forum and available to all us ATI guys who don't want to sacrifice our A/C and still want the car to not overheat!

I've been reading this whole thread, wish I had something to contribute, but I'm as baffled as you are.

RW99

I don't drive my car in the rain because of the whole traction thing, so I removed the weather stripping from the window sill edge of the hood. It helped a bit, heat certainly pours out... I think sufficient airflow at the radiator (read: efficient fans) is part of the answer but it also helps to have someplace for the hot air to escape when the car is in stop'n go traffic. I wish it was a simple thing to just add a couple of heat extractors in my fiberglass hood.

TS6

iTrader: (41)

I run a 4" cowl hood, short of no hood, I can't flow much more air than that.


Took everything apart today, moved ic forward a ton, and moved radiator up. Still can't fit the factory fan shroud in. But I made an interesting discovery while under the POS....my EWP has been leaking oil or grease out of the motor, so thats not cool. Might be why it doesn't cool so well or maybe why my voltage is low.

Going to reassemble tomorrow, probably going to re-use my ATI shroud with the 16" and 9" pullers. I'm installing a stock water pump and 160 stat too. Then I'll try to shroud the radiator as best I can.