hell fire rings??
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i'm being told these are the best for what i'm doing..which is about a 700 hp turbo motor.. do you guys agree?? anyother suggestions??
any idea what sponsors carry hellfire??
Mike
any idea what sponsors carry hellfire??
Mike
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heres a quote
"Hellfire Rings are made by Speed Pro - division of Federal Mogul. These are a 'hardened' ductile iron ring, much more forgiving than a tool steel or stainless ring which are way overkill for 'street' engines or ocassional track engines. You would typically find these used in a 'all-out' race application where the engine is pulled down for other reasons every 30-40 runs. The Hellfire ring was engineered based upon diesel piston ring technology - extreme duty, and longevity which were the concerns. These rings are excellent replacements to the tool steel and stainless alternatives. Many professional racers and builders have switched to these at the Pro-Mod level, boith N20 and Supercharged.
The only ring you are concerned with is the top ring anyway, most of the time the second is just a 'cast' iron ring, not ductile or anything special, doesn't need to be, doesn't take the pounding the top does. Don't waste your money on a Total Seal 2nd either. Many studies/dyno comparisons have been done showing this is in-effective. You are best to run a conventional second ring with a wider, or at least equal to the TOP ring gap, depending on application.
The Hellfire uses a process to 'harden and temper' the ductile iron material to withstand HIGH combustion temperatures causing it to exhibit anti-tension loss characteristics when exposed to these HIGH HEAT environments, such as a 500,000 mile to 1,000,000 mile diesel engine. These rings are 99% un-coated, meaning no molybedenum (moly) applied via the plasma arc process, they are just raw, un-coated.
Moly flaking is typically a product of DETONATION, ring butting, another story will cause the piston to fail 9 times out 10, lifts the top ring land off the piston. Moly-flaking is good indicator you better get a hold on your tune-up, because it ain't right. Your rod bearings will indicate this as well. Moly coated (ductile) rings are suited for N20 engines with up to 250HP shots and moderate level boosted engines, beyond this and you are better suited for the 'hardened' rings which will handle the cylinder temps better and maintain good ring seal for longer periods.
The trade-off as mentioned is cylinder bore wear. Either the tool steel, stainless, or hardened ductile iron will outlive a soft grey iron production based sleeve and promote more rapid wear. Now get an aftermarket Darton liner or the NEW LSx block and this will be a different story."
mike just shoot erik a message....racer7088 he should stock them or get them fast id imagine,otherwise checkout anyone that sells speed pro stuff
"Hellfire Rings are made by Speed Pro - division of Federal Mogul. These are a 'hardened' ductile iron ring, much more forgiving than a tool steel or stainless ring which are way overkill for 'street' engines or ocassional track engines. You would typically find these used in a 'all-out' race application where the engine is pulled down for other reasons every 30-40 runs. The Hellfire ring was engineered based upon diesel piston ring technology - extreme duty, and longevity which were the concerns. These rings are excellent replacements to the tool steel and stainless alternatives. Many professional racers and builders have switched to these at the Pro-Mod level, boith N20 and Supercharged.
The only ring you are concerned with is the top ring anyway, most of the time the second is just a 'cast' iron ring, not ductile or anything special, doesn't need to be, doesn't take the pounding the top does. Don't waste your money on a Total Seal 2nd either. Many studies/dyno comparisons have been done showing this is in-effective. You are best to run a conventional second ring with a wider, or at least equal to the TOP ring gap, depending on application.
The Hellfire uses a process to 'harden and temper' the ductile iron material to withstand HIGH combustion temperatures causing it to exhibit anti-tension loss characteristics when exposed to these HIGH HEAT environments, such as a 500,000 mile to 1,000,000 mile diesel engine. These rings are 99% un-coated, meaning no molybedenum (moly) applied via the plasma arc process, they are just raw, un-coated.
Moly flaking is typically a product of DETONATION, ring butting, another story will cause the piston to fail 9 times out 10, lifts the top ring land off the piston. Moly-flaking is good indicator you better get a hold on your tune-up, because it ain't right. Your rod bearings will indicate this as well. Moly coated (ductile) rings are suited for N20 engines with up to 250HP shots and moderate level boosted engines, beyond this and you are better suited for the 'hardened' rings which will handle the cylinder temps better and maintain good ring seal for longer periods.
The trade-off as mentioned is cylinder bore wear. Either the tool steel, stainless, or hardened ductile iron will outlive a soft grey iron production based sleeve and promote more rapid wear. Now get an aftermarket Darton liner or the NEW LSx block and this will be a different story."
mike just shoot erik a message....racer7088 he should stock them or get them fast id imagine,otherwise checkout anyone that sells speed pro stuff
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hmm speed pro huh..
i wonder if i can still pull employee discount at advance..
and reading that i wonder if they'll maybe be actually too much for what i want as i like taking my car on roadtrips..
Mike
i wonder if i can still pull employee discount at advance..
and reading that i wonder if they'll maybe be actually too much for what i want as i like taking my car on roadtrips..
Mike
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well from what you posted cylindar wall wear is a disadvantage.. and i put miles on my car when it runs.. like the power tour and such soo.. that kind of worries me..
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hmm upon more research i also see alot of people using perfect circle..
anyone here running them??
they are only about 125 bucks were the speed pro molys are 85ish.. but i'd rather spend the money if they are better..
anyone here running them??
they are only about 125 bucks were the speed pro molys are 85ish.. but i'd rather spend the money if they are better..
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then i'll prob just go with the moly's i already have the upgraded pins..
one more question ya'll my know..
i see 2 ring sized the standard 99mm and 99.5 now my 3.902 bore comes back at 99.11
should i go standard and hope theres enough or go with the 99.5's and file them all the way down..
Mike
thanks again..
one more question ya'll my know..
i see 2 ring sized the standard 99mm and 99.5 now my 3.902 bore comes back at 99.11
should i go standard and hope theres enough or go with the 99.5's and file them all the way down..
Mike
thanks again..
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a molly ring will break apart and loose the "molly" under detanation. i know you dont want it but it happens sometimes. thats why i have hell fires in my car ready for the nitrous
do the hell fire!
do the hell fire!