Thinking of Turbo setup, please comment !
I'm considering a turbo setup for my Z. This is a mostly track setup but street driven as well.
TARGET 600>700 rwhp
Please let me know what I'm missing or should look for.
Motor:
370 cid Iron block, nitrous pistons/Hellfire rings 2cc reliefs.
If I put on 74cc heads & GM MLS I would be looking at 9.93 SCR and .042 quench.
Vic Jr. EFI with wilson elbow
Cam: 220/220 115LSA (XE-lobes) (should it be bigger? like a 224 or 228?)
Kit would be a single T76 (air-to-air with nitrous halo cooling for track)
Fuel:
I have a Racetronix 255 with harness stock lines and rail. Is that enough to support 600 rwhp? Should I add a inline booster?
Injectors, I'm thinking 60lbs, rails will be aftermarket with the Vic Jr intake.
Now this is an auto, I have a VIG 3800. Is that too much considering it is a track setup as well or do I need a tighter TC?
Please, give me some comments from experience with Turboed F-Bodies
Thanks,
Mark
Last edited by PREDATOR-Z; Jun 25, 2007 at 06:27 AM.
since you are near stock compression perhaps get a nice tune and lower boost
take a look at speed inc`s eliminator PT76GTS kit or TTi race kit .. check ryan`s thread considering his new TTi race kit
good luck
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Predator...I think you can still get away with 12 psi safely on your motor in the heat without worry which would be well into 6XX rwhp. I would just shoot for 10:1 or less compression and make sure the tune is spot on. Add a second walbro pump intank and run 60's. You should be fine with that cam and stall although you could go a little lower on the stall if you have a brake, something around 3200 rpms or so but wouldn't matter too much if you leave the 3800 in there.
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Yes the block is allready in the car. I'm thinking of getting a set of ported PP 6.0 heads, opened up for 4.030 bore (therefore 74cc) with 2.055 intake and 1.57 exhaust hi temp valves.
Also, I know that lift is less important for boosted apps. But are small duration XE-R a benefit or should I stick with XE?
Springs in head will be PP Gold .650 lift.
I do not plan more than 10>12 lbs boost and yes I can run race gas at the track, for the street I can always reduce boost via controler.
Also, is it possible to run that setup with MAF? I have a Lingenfelter 100mm MAF and I know they use it on the TT apps. Being so hot and humid here, the temps and weather changes rapidly with big (night/day) differences, so keeping the MAF to help is beneficial.
Marty
If I were you, I'd run a set of 70-72cc ET or AFR heads, you would get better deck clamping with aftermarket castings. I would run an a/a or a/w intercooler or something so that you could try to keep your IAT's down.
If I were you, I'd run a set of 70-72cc ET or AFR heads, you would get better deck clamping with aftermarket castings. I would run an a/a or a/w intercooler or something so that you could try to keep your IAT's down.
7* overlap is a bit much and will bleed too much boost (IMO).
I will grind another cam, either 220/220 115, 224/224 115 or 224/220 115 (XE lobes).
Either way I'm looking at ~$10K for this so not that I want to cut corners, but 6.0 castings ported will do the job for over 1/2 the price. Trick is good valve job and valves (exhaust). I have head studs so clamping force should be fine at those boost levels.
Now back to fuel as this is what makes or brakes a reliable boost setup:
If I were to run a 5gal cell and delete the stock tank, what type of pump and lines would you recommend?
Marty
7* overlap is a bit much and will bleed too much boost (IMO).
If it doesn't work then you can always change it later, but why change another part just because it doesn't meet the typical turbo cam specs.
Marty
I'd still keep the cam you have now, mine is 234/234//113 which Speed Inc. uses a lot for the big power stuff.
And I still reccomend aftermarket head castings because you will push the car beyond 600rwhp as soon as it bores you.

60 lb Motrons should be good, I think you need dual 255's.
Nice to know about the cam, means I can contemplate AFR 225s 72cc, hmmm









