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Thinking of Turbo setup, please comment !

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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 05:12 AM
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Default Thinking of Turbo setup, please comment !

Hi,

I'm considering a turbo setup for my Z. This is a mostly track setup but street driven as well.
TARGET 600>700 rwhp
Please let me know what I'm missing or should look for.

Motor:

370 cid Iron block, nitrous pistons/Hellfire rings 2cc reliefs.
If I put on 74cc heads & GM MLS I would be looking at 9.93 SCR and .042 quench.
Vic Jr. EFI with wilson elbow

Cam: 220/220 115LSA (XE-lobes) (should it be bigger? like a 224 or 228?)

Kit would be a single T76 (air-to-air with nitrous halo cooling for track)

Fuel:
I have a Racetronix 255 with harness stock lines and rail. Is that enough to support 600 rwhp? Should I add a inline booster?
Injectors, I'm thinking 60lbs, rails will be aftermarket with the Vic Jr intake.

Now this is an auto, I have a VIG 3800. Is that too much considering it is a track setup as well or do I need a tighter TC?

Please, give me some comments from experience with Turboed F-Bodies

Thanks,
Mark

Last edited by PREDATOR-Z; Jun 25, 2007 at 06:27 AM.
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 05:17 AM
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I think that setup would be good but an LS6 would be nice because it is a higher LSA thus better overlap i believe

since you are near stock compression perhaps get a nice tune and lower boost
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 07:19 AM
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Mark, wlecome to this new right place .. good luck with your setup
take a look at speed inc`s eliminator PT76GTS kit or TTi race kit .. check ryan`s thread considering his new TTi race kit

good luck
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 02:48 PM
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pump gas or race gas?with that CR id go blower
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
pump gas or race gas?with that CR id go blower
I would agree. I would drop the compression to 8.5:1. Maybe a maximum of 9:1. Eigther that or go with a good blower setup.
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 06:34 PM
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Blowers are better with higher compression (higher being 9.2+) than turbos? I've been told 9.5:1 or less is best. My motor will be 9.26:1 and see turbo boost.
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 06:41 PM
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You don't really need an iron block... they are cheaper and easier to come by, but will cost you some extra weight. For your goals, an aluminum block would be 110% fine.
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by FastKat
You don't really need an iron block... they are cheaper and easier to come by, but will cost you some extra weight. For your goals, an aluminum block would be 110% fine.
He already has the 370 setup.

Predator...I think you can still get away with 12 psi safely on your motor in the heat without worry which would be well into 6XX rwhp. I would just shoot for 10:1 or less compression and make sure the tune is spot on. Add a second walbro pump intank and run 60's. You should be fine with that cam and stall although you could go a little lower on the stall if you have a brake, something around 3200 rpms or so but wouldn't matter too much if you leave the 3800 in there.
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 08:20 AM
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Thanks for the responses.

Yes the block is allready in the car. I'm thinking of getting a set of ported PP 6.0 heads, opened up for 4.030 bore (therefore 74cc) with 2.055 intake and 1.57 exhaust hi temp valves.

Also, I know that lift is less important for boosted apps. But are small duration XE-R a benefit or should I stick with XE?
Springs in head will be PP Gold .650 lift.

I do not plan more than 10>12 lbs boost and yes I can run race gas at the track, for the street I can always reduce boost via controler.

Also, is it possible to run that setup with MAF? I have a Lingenfelter 100mm MAF and I know they use it on the TT apps. Being so hot and humid here, the temps and weather changes rapidly with big (night/day) differences, so keeping the MAF to help is beneficial.
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 08:42 AM
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Maybe just run SD closed loop so that the 02's control part throttle to adjust for weather changes. But the 100mm maf should be able to get you close. I have never used a maf in turbo apps though.

Marty
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 08:45 AM
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Yes you can run the MAF with the power level you are looking to make. I have a Pace performance 85mm MAF and it works great. I would switch to a XE lobe cam to be easier on the springs as you wont make anymore power with the XER lobes. The head plan you have sounds like a good economical idea along with some slightly thicker gaskets. Good luck!
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 09:49 AM
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I would keep your current cam and converter and look at making changes down the line.

If I were you, I'd run a set of 70-72cc ET or AFR heads, you would get better deck clamping with aftermarket castings. I would run an a/a or a/w intercooler or something so that you could try to keep your IAT's down.
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
I would keep your current cam and converter and look at making changes down the line.

If I were you, I'd run a set of 70-72cc ET or AFR heads, you would get better deck clamping with aftermarket castings. I would run an a/a or a/w intercooler or something so that you could try to keep your IAT's down.
I think my current cam has too much overlap. It is a 232/234 113.
7* overlap is a bit much and will bleed too much boost (IMO).

I will grind another cam, either 220/220 115, 224/224 115 or 224/220 115 (XE lobes).

Either way I'm looking at ~$10K for this so not that I want to cut corners, but 6.0 castings ported will do the job for over 1/2 the price. Trick is good valve job and valves (exhaust). I have head studs so clamping force should be fine at those boost levels.

Now back to fuel as this is what makes or brakes a reliable boost setup:
If I were to run a 5gal cell and delete the stock tank, what type of pump and lines would you recommend?

Originally Posted by Mr.MartyStone
Maybe just run SD closed loop so that the 02's control part throttle to adjust for weather changes. But the 100mm maf should be able to get you close. I have never used a maf in turbo apps though.

Marty
Can't do that, I have no O2s. My car runs OLMAF
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
I think my current cam has too much overlap. It is a 232/234 113.
7* overlap is a bit much and will bleed too much boost (IMO).
Don't be afraid of overlap on turbo cams. I would run your current cam with the turbo setup as it will help you bleed down dynamic compression which will help fight detonation. Everybody regurgitates the same info when it comes to turbo cams, but look at what EPP does with their stock cube turbo cam (232/240 on 115).

If it doesn't work then you can always change it later, but why change another part just because it doesn't meet the typical turbo cam specs.

Marty
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 11:16 AM
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I thought the 220/220 115 was already in the car.

I'd still keep the cam you have now, mine is 234/234//113 which Speed Inc. uses a lot for the big power stuff.

And I still reccomend aftermarket head castings because you will push the car beyond 600rwhp as soon as it bores you.

60 lb Motrons should be good, I think you need dual 255's.
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 11:25 AM
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This is why I'm here talking to you guys, I've had Jap 4cyl turbo but I have little experience with LSx turbo (plenty LSx experience but nitrous and NA setups). I'm reading around and learning from actual users like yourselves.

Nice to know about the cam, means I can contemplate AFR 225s 72cc, hmmm
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 01:29 PM
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leave the cam in and since your not pushing past 12 psi those heads u had in mind would be fine.if u plan on more boost down the road then get thicker deck heads now like psj said.
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