STS or P-1SC
im not trying to laugh or start an argument, but EVERY STS kit that gets thrown on, there are HUGE gaps from the power made by 1 guy to the next.
ac then check out the TTI race kit from turbo technology them guys are awsome also just ask mightymouse and ryan k. I had a steet kit from them but never got to install as ilost my job, but quality was top notch just sad i never got to put it on.
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if your ready for all that, then it comes down to what you prefer. with a supercharger you'll be whining at idle, with a linear power curve, blah blah.... with the turbo, your gonna have the whooshing and whistling with an unpredictable power curve, etc, etc...
just read up on what both kits are like, and make your choice of what you want and like more... and then have fun
Overall after research, for the DD street the procharger is a more maintenance friendly unit and that is the way I'll be going. 7 PSI
The STS kits look like a good deal, here is a list of my opinion of them, and why I don't sell them anymore:
1. STS claims that heat is not required to help spool the turbo, that exhaust velocity does the job.
Major retailers of the STS kits sell the kits with exhaust wrap, to help spool the turbo. We have done this at our shop, and it helps quite a bit. It is obvious that the closer to the engine the turbo is mounted, the more efficient it is going to be.
I copied this from the STS website.
"Doesn't heat create the velocity in the exhaust gasses to spool the turbo?
No, heat doesn't create velocity. Heat creates volume. If you look at any of the physics laws for gasses, you will find that pressure and volume and heat are related. PV=NRT is a popular one, The V isn't for velocity, it is for Volume.
The turbine housing is what creates the velocity. The scrolling design that reduces the volume of the exhaust chamber as it scrolls around causes the gasses to have to increase in velocity and pressure to maintain the same flow rate.
Hotter gasses have more volume, thus requiring a higher A/R which in effect means that it starts at say 3" and scrolls down to approximately 1". Lower temperature gasses are denser and have less volume, so they require a lower A/R housing which would start at the same 3" volume, as the turbine housings use standard flanges, and scroll down to say 3/4".
Now if you were to reverse the housings in application, the conventional turbo would spool up extremely quick, at say around 1500 rpm but would cause too much backpressure at higher rpms because the higher volume of gas couldn't squeeze through the 3/4" hole without requiring a lot of pressure to force it through. On the reverse side, the remote mounted turbo with its cooler denser gasses, wouldn't spool up till say around 4000 rpms but once spooled up would make efficient power because it doesn't require hardly any backpressure to push the lower volume of gas through the larger 1" hole."
So I take it the exhaust wrap should not make a difference?
2. You don't want to run catalytic converters with a rear mount turbo. Years ago a guy brought in a Ferrari to us that had a rear mount turbo. One of the catalytic converters internals came apart, as they sometimes do, and parts of it lodged into the turbo, ruining it. I predict that this will be happening to the STS turbo customers.
3. The oil return line is routed into the passenger side oil cap on the STS kits. This line has a habit of coming loose, and spraying oil into the engine compartment. It happened to us, and I have read where it has happened to other people.
These engines already have enough oil returning down through the heads, they don't need more! This is a bad design, and many people are rerouting the oil return line to the oil pan, where it should be in the first place. The problem with running the line to the pan is now you have to drill or punch a hole into the oil pan to run the oil line, unless you remove the oil pan. We recently removed the oil pan on a customer's car, and welded a bung into the pan for the oil return line.
4. The turbo hangs without brackets supporting it, and will sag over time. We add a bracket when we install these kits, I don't link seeing the turbo dangling there.
5. The air filter is in a bad location, as is susceptible to dust, water, dirt, etc. STS offers a cover that goes over the filter, but we found the cover seriously hinders performance. We proved that on our chassis dyno.
6. On the F Body STS kit, a driver side subframe connector cannot be used. STS claims their plumbing that is routed down the driver side does the job of a subframe connector. We find that humorous, at best!
7. The plumbing underneath the car hangs too low in my opinion, and you don't want a lowered car with an STS kit on it.
8. The silicone couplers that are provided with an STS front mount intercooler are thin, and we had two of them blow apart. The intercooler plumbing that was provided with the front mount intercooler option that we ordered for a customer's car was poorly routed, we ended up using our tubing from our front mount kits that we sell.
9. The oil lines sure have a long way to run, from the front to the rear, and back up front. If a leak developed, it could be a quick way to ruin an engine.
10. It would be relatively easy for someone to slide underneath the rear of an STS equipped car, and steal someones turbo.
11. The boost line running back up to the engine from the turbo has silicone couplers at various points along the way, and can blow apart.
12. Any exhaust leaks will diminish the efficiency of a rear mount turbo.
Bob
I would just buy the D1-SC kit off of Bob at EPP. The kit is tried and true. Makes power as soon as the go pedal is pushed. The kit is very street friendly. Change the pulley's when you get used to the power and then start modding accordingly. Look on Streetfire or Ls1Tech videos for countless videos of procharger setups. You will not be dissapointed with that kit.
Best of luck
Andy



