My Incon Install
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Well, it has been a while since I updated this thread. This install has been quite the project. I got all the engine work done.
Then proceeded to start bolting up the turbo components. Getting the turbos clocked correctly and clearanced with the block, starter, etc. was nearly a whole day of work by itself. I would not mind never doing that again.
I decided to use my Mcleod bellhousing, which took some modifying to make it work.
Then proceeded to start bolting up the turbo components. Getting the turbos clocked correctly and clearanced with the block, starter, etc. was nearly a whole day of work by itself. I would not mind never doing that again.
I decided to use my Mcleod bellhousing, which took some modifying to make it work.
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Originally Posted by cablebandit
omg...all that work using a stock kmember.....you got ***** man!!! When the funds recouperate...get you a bmr kmember
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Forgot to finish the updates.
Got 90% of the install done, and things seemed to be going well. Was planning to start the car last night.
Got the PCV setup done, vacuum hoses run. Put the scavenge pump on and was doing some wiring checks. Turned the key on breifly, then off again. All the sudden we smelled fuel. Then heard some hissing near the fuel rail. Tried the key once more, same thing and now there was some fuel dripping. Turns out the 97 vette rail has a crack or tear in it on the drivers side near the front injector.
So, I need a new fuel rail now, which is not real cheap.
The other bad news is that the incon y-pipe will not bolt up to the turbos for some reason. If you bolt up 1 side the other side is 1/2" off. So, I guess I will have to cut the y-pipe apart, then bolt it up first and weld it together on the car.
All in all this install has been pretty bad. If I knew what I was getting into I probably would not have done it in the first place. After getting it all together last night and finding the fuel rail problem I was about to give up.
And as for the K-member, I thought about getting a BMR but I do road racing and autocross with this car. Nobody could guarantee me stock-like reliability.
Got 90% of the install done, and things seemed to be going well. Was planning to start the car last night.
Got the PCV setup done, vacuum hoses run. Put the scavenge pump on and was doing some wiring checks. Turned the key on breifly, then off again. All the sudden we smelled fuel. Then heard some hissing near the fuel rail. Tried the key once more, same thing and now there was some fuel dripping. Turns out the 97 vette rail has a crack or tear in it on the drivers side near the front injector.
So, I need a new fuel rail now, which is not real cheap.
The other bad news is that the incon y-pipe will not bolt up to the turbos for some reason. If you bolt up 1 side the other side is 1/2" off. So, I guess I will have to cut the y-pipe apart, then bolt it up first and weld it together on the car.
All in all this install has been pretty bad. If I knew what I was getting into I probably would not have done it in the first place. After getting it all together last night and finding the fuel rail problem I was about to give up.
And as for the K-member, I thought about getting a BMR but I do road racing and autocross with this car. Nobody could guarantee me stock-like reliability.
Last edited by bowtieman81; Sep 25, 2007 at 04:09 PM.
Give up now. You will never figure out your new problem........... the starter. Buy a chevelle. They are crowd favorites. Well you don't even need to buy a chevelle. Finish the 70 you turd.
wtf...get the fuel rail tacked if you can...thats the one that came off my car 
leave the bolts loose on the y-pipe to manifold and it will rotate and stuff and should fit. there is no room for movement of any of the cast stuff so it should fit. On different motors etc, never had prob with the ypipe fitting...just prop it up in the back with a jack and get one bolt in on each side
leave the bolts loose on the y-pipe to manifold and it will rotate and stuff and should fit. there is no room for movement of any of the cast stuff so it should fit. On different motors etc, never had prob with the ypipe fitting...just prop it up in the back with a jack and get one bolt in on each side
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Originally Posted by cablebandit
wtf...get the fuel rail tacked if you can...thats the one that came off my car
leave the bolts loose on the y-pipe to manifold and it will rotate and stuff and should fit. there is no room for movement of any of the cast stuff so it should fit. On different motors etc, never had prob with the ypipe fitting...just prop it up in the back with a jack and get one bolt in on each side
leave the bolts loose on the y-pipe to manifold and it will rotate and stuff and should fit. there is no room for movement of any of the cast stuff so it should fit. On different motors etc, never had prob with the ypipe fitting...just prop it up in the back with a jack and get one bolt in on each side
I already cut the y-pipe. I had planned to put my own electric cutouts on anyway. Decided not to use the ATP ones.
As Dauber mentioned my newest problem is the damn starter won't engage the flywheel. I either have a bad starter all the sudden, or something is wrong with the flywheel.
This install is one headache after another. I am definitely not doing this again.
Well just to enlighten everyone on the thread. The starter issue was figured out. Tightening ground straps, shims and a new starter later. As of 4PM on the 29th we had fuel shooting out of the back of the car (from around the fuel tank) after start up............ thats right the car actually started yesterday. I had to leave though, so I'm not sure if the fuel problem has been fixed. It is possible the TA is prowling around currently. I'll have to give bowtieman a call. 
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Sorry your having so much trouble on the install. I'm sure it's been said a hundred times but once you get the problems worked out, the tuning done and get the car into boost, you'll forget all about how much of a pain it was.
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More updates as of today:
Fuel problem was sorted out. I got the EVAP and return lines mixed up in the engine bay. Was sending fuel to the EVAP canister. The V6 lines look a little different, and I did not pay close enough attention when hooking them up.
I proceeded to fab up a couple exhaust pipes with turndowns until I can get the incon y-pipe patched back together. Got the homemade exhaust pipes done.
Proceeded to reassemble my interior and put the trap door back over the gas tank.
I also wired in the oil scavenge pump into the fuel pump circuit. I did not like the way incon told you to do it, so I did it my way. I did not want the oil pump running constantly when the key is on. So, with it in the fuel pump circuit it only runs 3-4 seconds unless the engine is running.
Then I went to put the bumper back on. Holy **** that was a pain!! I thought it was never going to fit. It did not want to slide into its place, adn the damn GM turn signal wires are too short. Some of the intercooler hose clamps were in the way too. The passenger side was the worst. I must have fought that damn bumper for 2 hours at least.
Also had to bleed the air out of the cooling system. That was a pain too.
In the end I got the car put back together (almost) and running. I set it on the ground and took it for a very short test drive. I have some tuning to do, but its not bad at all for a starter tune.
So, things left to do are:
-wire up the LC-1 wideband so I can tune
-put a relay in for the scavenge pump
-tune the car
-put the incon y-pipe back together and put the entire exhaust back on the car
I should have some pics/videos for you guys tomorrow night.
Fuel problem was sorted out. I got the EVAP and return lines mixed up in the engine bay. Was sending fuel to the EVAP canister. The V6 lines look a little different, and I did not pay close enough attention when hooking them up.
I proceeded to fab up a couple exhaust pipes with turndowns until I can get the incon y-pipe patched back together. Got the homemade exhaust pipes done.
Proceeded to reassemble my interior and put the trap door back over the gas tank.
I also wired in the oil scavenge pump into the fuel pump circuit. I did not like the way incon told you to do it, so I did it my way. I did not want the oil pump running constantly when the key is on. So, with it in the fuel pump circuit it only runs 3-4 seconds unless the engine is running.
Then I went to put the bumper back on. Holy **** that was a pain!! I thought it was never going to fit. It did not want to slide into its place, adn the damn GM turn signal wires are too short. Some of the intercooler hose clamps were in the way too. The passenger side was the worst. I must have fought that damn bumper for 2 hours at least.
Also had to bleed the air out of the cooling system. That was a pain too.
In the end I got the car put back together (almost) and running. I set it on the ground and took it for a very short test drive. I have some tuning to do, but its not bad at all for a starter tune.
So, things left to do are:
-wire up the LC-1 wideband so I can tune
-put a relay in for the scavenge pump
-tune the car
-put the incon y-pipe back together and put the entire exhaust back on the car
I should have some pics/videos for you guys tomorrow night.
Originally Posted by 2MuchRiceMakesMeSick
Stock tenbolt wont last long at that power level. Good luck with the build 
I know that people say this a lot, but I have fought the temptation to put my car on the track and mine is still holding up. It has been on the street with DRs now for a year at 14-16psi on my forged H/C setup and M6. I don't cut it any slack either. It will get a 12-bolt soon and move over to the braked th400 that I have, but damn it's nice to drive on the street with the 6-speed.
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Originally Posted by cablebandit
i trimmed my bumper around the parking lights to make the bumper fit easier. you gotta sometimes flip/rotate the clamps but you figured that out i am sure.
Don't suppose you have any pics of how you trimmed it? I only trimmed the passenger side turn signal area. Maybe I did not do enough?
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Thanks Jerry!
One more question for you incon guys. Are there supposed to be any gaskets in between the exhaust housings and the cast iron incon downpipes? I should have asked sooner, but I dont recall seeing any cars with gaskets there.
One more question for you incon guys. Are there supposed to be any gaskets in between the exhaust housings and the cast iron incon downpipes? I should have asked sooner, but I dont recall seeing any cars with gaskets there.
