Which cam to go with for a D1SC
08-12-2007, 02:52 PM
#1
Which cam to go with for a D1SC i am new to the FI scene and I was thinking of going with a Z06 cam but was just curious if a cam designed for a supercharger would yield a higher gain. My current setup up is prc stage 1 ls6 heads with a torquer 3 cam lts ,ory pipe, lm1, fast 90/90. I only want to do one cam swap and i will want room to upgrade as I will be forging the motor and cranking up the boost, also I dont want a monster cam as I would like a somewhat sleeper and very streetable car. 
08-12-2007, 08:33 PM
#5
no the heads are not milled and i believe my compression is 10.5 to 1. FRCBobby, how is the driveability with that cam and does it have a choppy idle?
I heard that the Z06 cam was a good blower cam but will I have a problem hitting 700+ rwhp with it or should i use a slightly more aggressive cam?
I heard that the Z06 cam was a good blower cam but will I have a problem hitting 700+ rwhp with it or should i use a slightly more aggressive cam?
08-12-2007, 08:56 PM
#7
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Fort Myers, FL.
Posts: 3,857
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
700 hp with a 346 is definatly possible, check out EPP's web site and look at their customers cars.
But if you are going to pull the motor and build a new one might as well get some more cubes, and 700 will be a lot easier, and last longer if built right.
But if you are going to pull the motor and build a new one might as well get some more cubes, and 700 will be a lot easier, and last longer if built right.
Trending Topics
08-12-2007, 09:28 PM
#9
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Fort Myers, FL.
Posts: 3,857
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the stock crank is a stout piece from the factory, I would only use it if staying 346. If going to a bigger motor just spend the money to get a new crank to use the block to its fullest.
I know you can use the crank in a 6.0 block but don't know about the 6.2.
I know you can use the crank in a 6.0 block but don't know about the 6.2.
08-13-2007, 04:22 AM
#10
FormerVendor
iTrader: (27)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 617
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The driveability with the XB is fine. The duration is suppose to be upper 220/low 230 with lift around 580 on a 115lsa. That is the close specs that LG would give me, so it basicly looks like it is really close to there G5X1 with more LSA. You can definitely tell there is a cam in there but it is very tame driveability wise.
The LS6 cam makes good power with FI, but you will probably end up wanting more if you use it, that is what happened to me.
The LS6 cam makes good power with FI, but you will probably end up wanting more if you use it, that is what happened to me.
08-14-2007, 06:05 AM
#12
Originally Posted by black01_WS6
700 hp with a 346 is definatly possible, check out EPP's web site and look at their customers cars.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=40 Bob
08-14-2007, 09:48 AM
#13
LS1TECH Sponsor
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Houston
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
HPE has an FI cam that has been making great power on some GTO's and Vette's....Its a 235/242 647/610 115LSA. Last automatic 04 ls1 gto made 550rwhp with cam headers and a P1sc running 6lbs. Thats impressive!
08-14-2007, 10:05 AM
#14
Originally Posted by black01_WS6
a lingenfelter gt2-3 is a good cam for FI.
EPP makes a larger cam for FI, but I wouldn't use that cam unless you are goign bigger cubes.
EPP makes a larger cam for FI, but I wouldn't use that cam unless you are goign bigger cubes.
OTOH I also did very well with a Z06 cam (9.40s @ 145), all depends what you are looking for. Z06 cam idles like stock, is easy on valve train parts (918s will last forever) and will certainly make some serious power with the blower. I was about at the limit of it though where throwing more boost at it wasnt doing anything (17psi or so).
08-14-2007, 11:02 AM
#16
Thats an 01 z06 cam at that, '02 Z06 or the small lingenfelter cam would have done a little better.
Bigger cam eases up on the mid range cylinder pressure some, while it has hurt my 60 foots some, the ET and MPH and picked up overall so its a wash. But (knock on wood) the same head gaskets have been in the car all year. I was pushing about a quart here and there with the old cam/D1 (222/228) and was enjoying some spectacular wheelstands/60 foots but as soon as I swapped cams no more pushing water, even with the F1A pullied up.
Time will tell though, still not sure if I liked the big hit off the line or the power really coming on hard 30-40' out more. I'm never to confident about the head gaskets so I dont like to say anything really fixes it just yet. But a cam swap takes a couple hours and a cam doesnt cost much so I like to experiment a little.
Bigger cam eases up on the mid range cylinder pressure some, while it has hurt my 60 foots some, the ET and MPH and picked up overall so its a wash. But (knock on wood) the same head gaskets have been in the car all year. I was pushing about a quart here and there with the old cam/D1 (222/228) and was enjoying some spectacular wheelstands/60 foots but as soon as I swapped cams no more pushing water, even with the F1A pullied up.
Time will tell though, still not sure if I liked the big hit off the line or the power really coming on hard 30-40' out more. I'm never to confident about the head gaskets so I dont like to say anything really fixes it just yet. But a cam swap takes a couple hours and a cam doesnt cost much so I like to experiment a little.
08-14-2007, 11:22 AM
#19
Probably about the 800fwhp mark is where the water starts moving, but its been pretty solid now. The AFR heads really helped out over the Darts I had on it the most I would say, most people wouldnt even know they were pushing any water but I keep a real close eye on it and have it pretty figured out by now, even made a little hand pump to pump the water from the overflow back onto the radiator in about 20 seconds if I need to between rounds if I dont have any time but i havent needed it in a while.
Its not really hurting anything even if it does, never actually blew a gasket, got any water in the oil/combustion chamber or leaked a drop of water on the track, I dont like it but what can you do. For most people it isnt a concern, even if you do push a little in a street car after a couple cool downs it goes back into radiator.
GM MLS gaskets is what I have been using, waiting to see some results from the new fel pros.
Its not really hurting anything even if it does, never actually blew a gasket, got any water in the oil/combustion chamber or leaked a drop of water on the track, I dont like it but what can you do. For most people it isnt a concern, even if you do push a little in a street car after a couple cool downs it goes back into radiator.
GM MLS gaskets is what I have been using, waiting to see some results from the new fel pros.
08-14-2007, 11:23 AM
#20
TECH Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,341
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Z06 will work great for your goals...
If you are building the motor spring the cash for a 4 inch stroke crank and keep the cam fairly mild, comp in the 9:1 range.
You can build a solid 402 LS2 or iron block motor cheaply and run something super streetable like a 226/234 115LSA cam and idle near stock and make 700RWHP easily...
I'd also sell the FAST 90/90 and go with a stock LS6 intake and ported stock T-body. When you really crank up the boost you wont have to worry about intake leaks...
If you are building the motor spring the cash for a 4 inch stroke crank and keep the cam fairly mild, comp in the 9:1 range.
You can build a solid 402 LS2 or iron block motor cheaply and run something super streetable like a 226/234 115LSA cam and idle near stock and make 700RWHP easily...
I'd also sell the FAST 90/90 and go with a stock LS6 intake and ported stock T-body. When you really crank up the boost you wont have to worry about intake leaks...