Assassin

iTrader: (3)

without re building the bottom end, to get a safe 150 extra hp out of a turbo it would cost around $4500 right?, for a 150 shot of nitrous it would cost around $500, now..... for me, I only need to fill up nitrous once a month, so I go $80 * 50 = $4000 (the difference), so I can go a little over 4 years worth of nitrous before it would be equal to getting the turbo, but with a turbo i'd be better off rebuilding the complete engine, another $4000, but I'd get far more than an extra 150 hp, so...... I need to ask myself if I'm going to spray for 4 more years..... maybe, it's much more cost effective right now with the nitrous but why do I want a turbo so badd?

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

count gas money to get the nitrous for each bottle and back, count your hook up and unhook time, count the times when you forget to turn it on, the times when it runs out on you.. all the flack you get because you have to spray people to win street races (if so inclined) etc. etc.

if you only use one bottle a month.. well then nitrous is perfect for you.. because that is like one wide open pass a week..

everybody else that uses nitrous goes through that on a friday night.. there are 4 of those in a month.. throw in another bottle to cover the rest of the weekdays... you see its quite cumbersome.

not to mention to get 450rw your going to end up buying headers, a lid, maybe a maf translator, which is another $1200 you didnt add to the nitrous cost.
and then you could have a turbo...
welcome to forced induction

02BlueFirehawk

Dont forget the $500+ fines and then some when you get busted for riding around with it connected. The ONLY reason I went boost was because with my luck, I'd get busted. So with a blower/turbo, you're fast all the time. Buddy of mine just put a wet system on his car. He's already filled his 10lb bottle twice in a week. $80 ca-ching.

Assassin

iTrader: (3)

the other mods listed I didnt cout cause I did them anyway..... but I dont see the point of putting a turbo without doing the whole engine, ya know what I mean? of corse it makes it EXTREMELY tempting when I go to the bank and they look on the computer and say "oh, you've been pre approved for a new 10,000 limit c.c."

btw, is there really a $500 fine for having a bottle connected?

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

i dont think so. Local laws vary alot, you need to contact the bmv or something about nitrous law in your area.

sounds like you already made up your mind through locigal reasoning. But you just desire turbo cause you want the "bling" factor.
If your going to go FI go all the way.
Dont for get a good heads and cam, with all the bolt ons will get you close to that 450rwhp. and if thats not enough spray then. SO unless you NEED over 500rwhp FI isnt worth it.

SS00Blue

I'm running a single turbo on my bone stck 2000 SS and I have a good deal more than 150 extra hp, even though it is generally agreed that I'm down on torque (if you can honestly say that 525 rw(dynojet)tq at 2900 is down on torque).

The point is that one does not HAVE to built an FI engine immediately, just if you lack the self control to keep the boost at 7-8 lbs on the pump. Plus, I sold my two year old grots, y, MAFT, GMAS, to offset the price of the kit and (poor) tuning. My longblock is running extremely well... the clutch, on the other hand...

SC-

FASST

If you want to get REALLY technical with the economic analysis, you should consider the interest earned on the principle ($4500) for not buying the turbo. With that factored in, your advantage for having nitrous goes up even further.

But...FI just rocks. and you can't put a price on just being cool

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

the 'i have or i had gotten that stuff (headers/lid etc.) anyways arguement is moot. nobody made you buy that stuff ahead of time, and nobody said you can't sell it either.. mods for my car were turbo oriented from the get-go.. shifter then shift light then cat back then turbo.. i didn't buy anything i'd have to take right back off..
in fact
the interest on THAT money could have been used to pay for the turbo kit economical analysis indeed!

Mekkadon

iTrader: (3)

Hey mighty mouse remember when you said you would email me an ls1edit file for checking the timing curve on your car? Can you email it to me:

mekkadonZ28@hotmail.com

Thanks!

buschman

Another economical analysis point is that in the three or four years when your N20 has equalled the price of a super or turbo charger, what do you have to show for it? The FI guys still has a very valuable piece of equipment that he can sell. And even if we only recoupe 50% what we paid for it that's still over 2 Grand. You'll have a 3 year old $500 N20 setup that probably isn't worth the shipping costs to get it to the purchaser. Just another consideration.

Purges are cool, but a V8 with a blow off is even cooler!

Mike

SS00Blue

Yeah, the ROI break is about 4-4.5 years. Now, let see... would a bottle baby really go 4.5 years without a rebuild? Nah, so you're in for motor work going in either direction.

Just another thought.

SC-

White_Hawk

iTrader: (3)

I have been talking to ARE about getting a 422 block. Those things are making the same horsepower as my powerdyne/heads/cam while running NA. Getting the block from ARE, building the engine locally, getting my heads re-seated with big valves, and a new cam will come about the same as one of the new turbo kits (probably $1k less or so).

Then, once it gets dialed, I can throw a shot on it for easy 10's. Getting 10's with boost just seems to be way to much work IMHO. And I am boost guy from way back, but the LS1's greatest strength is definitely it's ability to make N/A power, so might as well take advantage of it.

-Geoff

Gold Phoenix

iTrader: (1)

I am spraying my car, but want to switch to turbo. Nitrous is a on/off power switch. I can't use it on a roll in 1st or 2nd without spinning the street tires. Besides, I get pissed when I run out. Also, turbos are not as destructive as nitrous. You can get 500rwhp with 7 psi of boost on a stock motor. Check out Rob's single kit. And the power is available anytime.

White_Hawk

iTrader: (3)

Rob's TE63 kit made the about same power as my Powerdyne/heads/cam/macs setup (on the same dyno even). He gets pretty defensive when you question him about it, so if you want to stay on his good side, don't bring that up. His kit seems to be geared for the bigger turbo's, which will make quick work of a stock block.

All I know is that the big bore/stroker guys with massive heads and giant cams are making 500 rwhp, with much less trouble than FI. I heard a 422 at a local track last week with a 245/250 duration cam and it idled like a stocker. I WANT ONE!

-Geoff