STS Oil Pump
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 182
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STS Oil Pump STS install was finished today. Car cranked fine. We turbed the switch over a few times and let some oil drain to make sure there was oil coming to the turbo, and there was. After letting it run for a little more, the buzzer saying that the oil pump is not working went off. After that, every time we turned the key over it went off, but there was oil coming back in the return line to the engine bay.
Questions:
1. Is the buzzer a constant beep if the oil pump isn't working while your car is on, or does it just beep once to let you know?
2. Like I said, the buzzer would beep when you turn the key over, and then not beep any more for a while...then every once in a while it would chirp...like 1/3 of a beep. Why is this?
3. Could it be that there is air in the oil lines and we just need to let the car run for a while to fix the beep?
4. Does the buzzer always go off one time when you turn the key over? I don't know exactly how it works.
Thanks!
Questions:
1. Is the buzzer a constant beep if the oil pump isn't working while your car is on, or does it just beep once to let you know?
2. Like I said, the buzzer would beep when you turn the key over, and then not beep any more for a while...then every once in a while it would chirp...like 1/3 of a beep. Why is this?
3. Could it be that there is air in the oil lines and we just need to let the car run for a while to fix the beep?
4. Does the buzzer always go off one time when you turn the key over? I don't know exactly how it works.
Thanks!
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 7
From: Ft. Irwin, California (But Virginia is home)
No, the buzzer should not make a sound (unless it senses no oil pressure). It will buzz constantl when it sets the alarm off, not just a chirp.
Check your wiring and make sure the connector is wired to the fuel and not the AC on the PCM. Both wires are the same color (blue, I believe.) Also, pull the intake pipe coming from the compressor housing that leads over the axle. If it has oil in it, then the alarm is legit and the turbo is pushing oil. If no oil is noted, then it's an electrical issue with the alarm.
Finally, check the connectors on the pump itself. The stock "clip" connectors suck. I ended out soldering mine and sealing the connection with liquid tape.
Anyhow, hope that helps ya.
Check your wiring and make sure the connector is wired to the fuel and not the AC on the PCM. Both wires are the same color (blue, I believe.) Also, pull the intake pipe coming from the compressor housing that leads over the axle. If it has oil in it, then the alarm is legit and the turbo is pushing oil. If no oil is noted, then it's an electrical issue with the alarm.
Finally, check the connectors on the pump itself. The stock "clip" connectors suck. I ended out soldering mine and sealing the connection with liquid tape.
Anyhow, hope that helps ya.
also there is an adjustment on the top of the pump itself, a round rubber cover you can remove, inside is a allen wrench screw - IF your getting oil return ok you can adjust the sensor by turning slightly the set screw so the beeper wont chirp at you. i had to do this very procedure myself
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2007
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Today I found out I had the yellow and black wires reversed, so I took it to a lift and put them how the should be on the oil pump. Got down the road and I was smokin and spitting oil out of the exhaust pipe.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 182
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Thanks.
Oh, and the few times I did get on it, the car actually seemed SLOWER. I hate to say it, but my friend's tune only Z28 feels faster then my car does right now.
To say the least, I'm depressed with how the install has gone thus far.
How much difference does heat wrap REALLY make?
Oh, and the few times I did get on it, the car actually seemed SLOWER. I hate to say it, but my friend's tune only Z28 feels faster then my car does right now.
To say the least, I'm depressed with how the install has gone thus far.
How much difference does heat wrap REALLY make?
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if you are having ANY problems at all, especially with the oiling system, you shouldnt be getting on it in the first place, much less be thinking of putting on heat wrap already. this is how more problems start...
i had problems with the oiling at first as well, but the system works and there is something wrong with your setup.
did you re-check:
wiring?
check valve?
feed, return lines?
intake/exhaust leaks?
your problem is somewhere in there.
i had problems with the oiling at first as well, but the system works and there is something wrong with your setup.
did you re-check:
wiring?
check valve?
feed, return lines?
intake/exhaust leaks?
your problem is somewhere in there.
Thanks.
Oh, and the few times I did get on it, the car actually seemed SLOWER. I hate to say it, but my friend's tune only Z28 feels faster then my car does right now.
To say the least, I'm depressed with how the install has gone thus far.
How much difference does heat wrap REALLY make?
Oh, and the few times I did get on it, the car actually seemed SLOWER. I hate to say it, but my friend's tune only Z28 feels faster then my car does right now.
To say the least, I'm depressed with how the install has gone thus far.
How much difference does heat wrap REALLY make?
You will have oil spitting out because it spilled over into the exhaust and charge pipe.
You should clean out both.
Did someone local tune it? There can be alot left if the tune is off.
Also, the buzzer only goes off if there is too much pressure in the return line, not low pressure.
You should clean out both.
Did someone local tune it? There can be alot left if the tune is off.
Also, the buzzer only goes off if there is too much pressure in the return line, not low pressure.
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
From: Tucson
You will have oil spitting out because it spilled over into the exhaust and charge pipe.
You should clean out both.
Did someone local tune it? There can be alot left if the tune is off.
Also, the buzzer only goes off if there is too much pressure in the return line, not low pressure.
You should clean out both.
Did someone local tune it? There can be alot left if the tune is off.
Also, the buzzer only goes off if there is too much pressure in the return line, not low pressure.
So the buzzer is in the return side. Hmmm.
jeremy, if you pull of the return line at the bottom of the turbo, and pull of the oil fill cap hold the cap just high enuff to see it drain. stick the return line at the back of the car in a bucket of oil that is catching your oil drain from under your turbo (will need two people for this) see how much oil is returning to the valve cover vrs. how much is draining from your turbo. the pump or line may not be keeping up. this sounds more difficult than it is. good way to also make sure the buzzer is set right or wrong.
the buzzer should be set up from STS to go off if more than 3psi builds up in the return line.
What he mentioned earlier about the polarity being reversed is a typical issue. He should be good to go now, but really needs to clean the charge pipe out. Getting oil all over the MAF isnt good.
What he mentioned earlier about the polarity being reversed is a typical issue. He should be good to go now, but really needs to clean the charge pipe out. Getting oil all over the MAF isnt good.