Attn Ohio boys: O-ring question
11-11-2007, 06:28 PM
#41
Not trying to argue...Just more info on the site the better. 
But how do you know for a FACT that the reason your not pushing water wasn't just from the gasket change alone?
Inspector12, how do you know it wasn't the Yamabond? We use it and thats some good stuff. Although it has it's downfalls...
But how do you know for a FACT that the reason your not pushing water wasn't just from the gasket change alone?Inspector12, how do you know it wasn't the Yamabond? We use it and thats some good stuff. Although it has it's downfalls...
11-11-2007, 06:36 PM
#42
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With Cometics, how much more boost, lower et or timing can you add before you start pushing water......if it's only 1psi, 1 tenth or 2 degrees is it worth the effort?
11-11-2007, 07:14 PM
#44
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I should have worded the question better:
With MLS gaskets, how much more boost, lower et or timing can you add before you start pushing water IF YOU ADD AN O-RING......if it's only 1psi, 1 tenth or 2 degrees better than just a MLS gasket, is it worth the effort to add the rings to the head?
11-11-2007, 07:56 PM
#45
Not trying to argue...Just more info on the site the better. But how do you know for a FACT that the reason your not pushing water wasn't just from the gasket change alone?
Inspector12, how do you know it wasn't the Yamabond? We use it and thats some good stuff. Although it has it's downfalls...
But how do you know for a FACT that the reason your not pushing water wasn't just from the gasket change alone?Inspector12, how do you know it wasn't the Yamabond? We use it and thats some good stuff. Although it has it's downfalls...
11-11-2007, 08:58 PM
#46
I don't know about it regards to holding boost, but cometics have the advantage of variable compressed thickness. I know everyone in here is most likely running a forged shortblock, but this info helps. The ideal quench distance of .035-.040 is sometimes hard to acquire with a .052 gasket. One major factor everyone is leaving out here is detonation. If there capacities of holding are the same I'd run the cometics over the MLS due to the better detonation control and reusability.
11-12-2007, 01:25 AM
#48
Ok, first off that was some good info you guys just went and threw away. 
O-ringing the head with the GM MLS gaskets wasn't the cure all. But it did allow me to go faster and push less water.
As far as the specs on the o-ring in the head...I'll have to take some measurements.
My newest setup uses a copper gasket. With an o-ring in the head and a groove in the block. I can make 3 back to back 8 second passes and not push a drop...I just push air now. I have an expansion tank mounted high above the motor. That is only half full of water. I don't know how you could do it with a stockish radiator setup though.
You can see it here to the right of the TB.
O-ringing the head with the GM MLS gaskets wasn't the cure all. But it did allow me to go faster and push less water.
As far as the specs on the o-ring in the head...I'll have to take some measurements.
My newest setup uses a copper gasket. With an o-ring in the head and a groove in the block. I can make 3 back to back 8 second passes and not push a drop...I just push air now.
I have an expansion tank mounted high above the motor. That is only half full of water. I don't know how you could do it with a stockish radiator setup though. You can see it here to the right of the TB.
11-12-2007, 03:13 AM
#49
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Im almost 90% sure its the cleaning porcess. Its like JB weld 
And being carefull with it not to plug up your water jacket ports to the head.
And being carefull with it not to plug up your water jacket ports to the head. Last edited by JMBLOWNWS6; 11-12-2007 at 03:22 AM.
11-12-2007, 05:36 AM
#50
I don't know about it regards to holding boost, but cometics have the advantage of variable compressed thickness. I know everyone in here is most likely running a forged shortblock, but this info helps. The ideal quench distance of .035-.040 is sometimes hard to acquire with a .052 gasket. One major factor everyone is leaving out here is detonation. If there capacities of holding are the same I'd run the cometics over the MLS due to the better detonation control and reusability.
Im almost 90% sure its the cleaning porcess. Its like JB weld And being carefull with it not to plug up your water jacket ports to the head.
11-12-2007, 09:48 PM
#51
I don't think you listed one thing a GM MLS gasket isn't capable of. They are reusable, but they are so cheap most don't I sure won't go to all the trouble of changing head gaskets and go back with the old ones for $50. Now your Cometics are around $200 and tell me how the Cometics control detination I am going to have to call BS on that part for sure as that is usually in your tuning, fuel, boost etc! And the different thicknesses well when you are building your motor generally I alway plan of the GM's so it isn't an issue, but if you needed a specfic thickness the Cometics would definately be an option.
11-12-2007, 11:43 PM
#52
A few motors have been built with 9/16 studs and it is a huge PITA to get them to work.
The block machining, studs, head machining and custom gaskets will run you a bit over 1k, not to mention you will have to have custom tq plates made to properly bore and hone the motor.
the 140lb/ft clamping force will crack the deck and heads if you are not carefull.
Nasty,
i had Kurt abd a few local builders recommend flatout copper gaskets, they have special pn's for 1/2 and larger studs on ls motors. if i remember correctly they are .063 thick
The block machining, studs, head machining and custom gaskets will run you a bit over 1k, not to mention you will have to have custom tq plates made to properly bore and hone the motor.
the 140lb/ft clamping force will crack the deck and heads if you are not carefull.
Nasty,
i had Kurt abd a few local builders recommend flatout copper gaskets, they have special pn's for 1/2 and larger studs on ls motors. if i remember correctly they are .063 thick
11-13-2007, 05:32 AM
#53
If your building the motor and plan on GM gaskets then it's not an issue LOL! Like I said they aren't any better other than you can get different thicknesses usless someone else can give me some info to the contrary. So they don't help prevent detination it is the quench that does it? I would think that would just go back to a well built motor etc... And the 9/16's stud that are being talked about I herd from one of our local engine builders that they distorted the block and this particular shop couldn't even get the heads to seal correctly, but don't know much about that situation at all.
11-13-2007, 07:32 AM
#54
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That makes sense since it isn't the stud stretching as much as it is the decks flexing. For those that have killed a lot of them, are the gaskets loosing seal to the top and bottom and staying tight between cylinders?
11-13-2007, 06:59 PM
#55
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It sets fast and if u don't have both surfaces tacky the bond isn't as good. Also we just found that if you use too much with a receiver groove setup. It will actually keep the gasket from setting into the groove.
It comes off fairly easy with lacquer thinner.
We haven't noticed any difference in pushing water or gasket condition between Yamabond and high temp silicone sealant.
It comes off fairly easy with lacquer thinner.
We haven't noticed any difference in pushing water or gasket condition between Yamabond and high temp silicone sealant.
11-13-2007, 10:11 PM
#56
I don't know about it regards to holding boost, but cometics have the advantage of variable compressed thickness. I know everyone in here is most likely running a forged shortblock, but this info helps. The ideal quench distance of .035-.040 is sometimes hard to acquire with a .052 gasket. One major factor everyone is leaving out here is detonation. If there capacities of holding are the same I'd run the cometics over the MLS due to the better detonation control and reusability.
If your building the motor and plan on GM gaskets then it's not an issue LOL! Like I said they aren't any better other than you can get different thicknesses usless someone else can give me some info to the contrary. So they don't help prevent detination it is the quench that does it? I would think that would just go back to a well built motor etc...
11-14-2007, 05:15 AM
#57
It sets fast and if u don't have both surfaces tacky the bond isn't as good. Also we just found that if you use too much with a receiver groove setup. It will actually keep the gasket from setting into the groove.
It comes off fairly easy with lacquer thinner.
We haven't noticed any difference in pushing water or gasket condition between Yamabond and high temp silicone sealant.
It comes off fairly easy with lacquer thinner.
We haven't noticed any difference in pushing water or gasket condition between Yamabond and high temp silicone sealant.
I stated most people in here are running forged shortblocks. I'm a big fan of custom pistons and this is one of the reasons why. Yes, you could run the mls gaskets, but you're going to have pistons that are kind of far out of the hole or milled heads to reach ideal quench distance. Neither are beneficial to running large amounts of cylinder pressure.
11-14-2007, 04:18 PM
#60
It sets fast and if u don't have both surfaces tacky the bond isn't as good. Also we just found that if you use too much with a receiver groove setup. It will actually keep the gasket from setting into the groove.
It comes off fairly easy with lacquer thinner.
We haven't noticed any difference in pushing water or gasket condition between Yamabond and high temp silicone sealant.
It comes off fairly easy with lacquer thinner.
We haven't noticed any difference in pushing water or gasket condition between Yamabond and high temp silicone sealant.
Thanks Mike.
Now you said
My newest setup uses a copper gasket. With an o-ring in the head and a groove in the block. I can make 3 back to back 8 second passes and not push a drop...I just push air now.
I have an expansion tank mounted high above the motor. That is only half full of water. I don't know how you could do it with a stockish radiator setup though. You can see it here to the right of the TB.
What do you mean by just push air???? Was that a happy post ie push air into the motor or you found another problem??
What does having the expansion tank up high do??
Completley sealed and plumbed back into the motor or vented??
Thanks
Kyle