-10 to 3/8 good enough for return?
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From: College Station/Pasadena
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: College Station/Pasadena
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From: Norn Iron
The pan is aluminium, You can weld on the male thread adaptors.
Although I tried this, and the pan warped like a banana. I ended up bolting in a bulkead adaptor, with a pair of dowty seals on it. Bulkead cut sort on the inside.
Its worked great for me.
Obviously the pan needs to be off the car for this.
Although I tried this, and the pan warped like a banana. I ended up bolting in a bulkead adaptor, with a pair of dowty seals on it. Bulkead cut sort on the inside.
Its worked great for me.
Obviously the pan needs to be off the car for this.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: College Station/Pasadena
The pan is aluminium, You can weld on the male thread adaptors.
Although I tried this, and the pan warped like a banana. I ended up bolting in a bulkead adaptor, with a pair of dowty seals on it. Bulkead cut sort on the inside.
Its worked great for me.
Obviously the pan needs to be off the car for this.
Although I tried this, and the pan warped like a banana. I ended up bolting in a bulkead adaptor, with a pair of dowty seals on it. Bulkead cut sort on the inside.
Its worked great for me.
Obviously the pan needs to be off the car for this.
thanks again
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Norn Iron
I'm not saying it cant be welded, of course it can. Just mine warped badly. But I also had to cut/re-shape mine, which would have reduced strength too, and made it easier to warp.
A stock F-Body pan would be much stronger.
I'll take a pic tomorrow. But it really is straightforward.
Just bolt a bulkhead adaptor into the side of the pan at high level. I used -8
Although Ive just removed it from the Alu pan, and Im going to try an Autokraft steel pan I bought.
for no other reason than fitment issues. I had to cut a chunk out of the Alu pan to fit my car, and when it warped, I had to machine it flat again. this reduced the flange thickness, and now the rear corner has cracked, by the oilways for the filter. It hasnt leaked yet...but it was a concern.
I could have welded a fitting onto the steel pan, but figured why buy more bits when the BH fitting worked fine and would be free to swap.
A stock F-Body pan would be much stronger.
I'll take a pic tomorrow. But it really is straightforward.
Just bolt a bulkhead adaptor into the side of the pan at high level. I used -8
Although Ive just removed it from the Alu pan, and Im going to try an Autokraft steel pan I bought.
for no other reason than fitment issues. I had to cut a chunk out of the Alu pan to fit my car, and when it warped, I had to machine it flat again. this reduced the flange thickness, and now the rear corner has cracked, by the oilways for the filter. It hasnt leaked yet...but it was a concern.
I could have welded a fitting onto the steel pan, but figured why buy more bits when the BH fitting worked fine and would be free to swap.
Just got mine welded on today. Going to put it back on the motor wed, I don't think it warped any guess I'll find out soon.
Stevieturbo is right, it's the stock alum pan. PT# is SUM-220062 They have all the -AN sizes in male and female. It's with the Summit brand fuel cells in the catalog.
Originally Posted by SSilverSSurfer
you have an aftermarket pan? and a part#?
you have an aftermarket pan? and a part#?