kp

iTrader: (34)

Darlington SC and Rockingham NC are open all year, along with Carolina dragway. They are all 340 miles SE of me, Steele Alabama is 200 miles south of me and open all year but its not a great track for fast 1/4 mile cars. Both Darlington and Rockingham are very nice tracks, shut down is kinda rough at Carolina.

I hope it will since the old motor got me in the 8s

I am really bored with the car so I dont even feel like working it, if I had a lift I probably would forget I even owned it. But I have to see it every day so I may as well work on it..

I think its fairly normal for them to move around a little, this 346 is the newer style block that takes all the same size head bolts like the LS2 so I think its a little stronger than the older LS1/6 blocks in the main area.

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

I thought you were contemplating going turbo this year? It be amazing to see how much you can push a "small" turbo with your combo.

No Juice

iTrader: (11)

Did you say you got new AFR 225's? or are these the same ones from last year?

Are the new ones the large bore I presume? And what were the old ones and what did you do with them fi you got new ones?

kp

iTrader: (34)

Well, if I ever had any issues with the blower I would have made the switch, honestly I'm pretty sure I could see 8.70s with the F1A and really I dont want to go much quicker so why fix what isnt broke.

I put new 72cc AFR 225s on, the old 65cc AFR 225 'small bore' heads I ran are sold, same with the old 347 short block.

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

I hear ya on that and I know that's your style. good luck i'm sure you'll do high 8's consistently.

Are ya bored with the car yet? lol

kp

iTrader: (34)

I'm pretty bored with it, ready to come and get it?

Its all fresh and ready to go

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

Ok throw me the keys!

do you manually shift your car? Do you have a ratchet type of shifter if you do?

I'm sure you'd ask good $$ for your car but its worth every penny.

kp

iTrader: (34)

I have a B&M prostick and I shift it myself, its not a ratchet but its gated.

Next week I'm finally going to break down and put an air shifter in the car though, going to be doing more index/bracket racing this year.

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

that's cheating.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I was interested to see what your crank would look like after reading the thread about high hp stock cranks.

Didn't you buy Nineballs turbo parts he was going to put on the formula drag car?

kp

iTrader: (34)

Yea, that was like 2 years ago, I sold it all a while back though.

rjw

iTrader: (3)

Am I correct in saying that you are running your D1SC and F1 with a 6 rib belt??

Thx

Also, when I bent a (oem) rod in my engine....strangely, it was #1 everything else in the engine looked perfect??? and it never detonated, overheated or otherwise...plus very rich tune.

Thanks for sharing...

kp

iTrader: (34)

Its an 8 rib SDCE spring tensioned drive.

You never know, only takes 1/10 of a second of detonation to hurt something, one thing about engine parts is they arent capable of lying

rjw

iTrader: (3)

I was curious, because in the pics of your new engine, it looked like a 6 rib ati damper on the crank snout.

I wonder if oem rods might fib a little??

thx

T/A KID

iTrader: (12)

Hey Kevin, do you break in your motors with the chargers, or run them N/A without the blower belt?? Also do you swap the initial procharger oil in your old D1SC or just wait the 6,000 miles???

Mine is about done, and I was wondering if I should break it in with the charger (Ed Wright Mail order, till I can get it down there)?
Any help appreciated

kp

iTrader: (34)

F bodies use another pulley that bolts to the front of the damper and has a separate belt, unlike the C5s that have a rack and pinion 1/2" from the damper and run the blower of the main drive.

I ran stock rods well into the 9s for a full season and never bent one, matter of fact two years later the same short block is still running fine in a heads/cam daily driver. But its more than possible one rod was tweaked a little when it was new (or sometime in its life) and just failed.

Since I dont drive the car on the street anymore I just heat cycle it a few times, bring it up on the trans brake a few times, change the oil, make a couple easy passes to make sure nothing is leaking or coming lose and just run it. Break in is something that you will never get the same answer on, the blower itself wont hurt anything unless you floor it but the tne has to be close, dont want it super rich or super lean.

I just change the procharger oil once in a while, dont put many miles on it, but I do change it twice a year or so. If its a new blower I think they recommend changing the oil after the first 500 miles, then do it every 6K.

T/A KID

iTrader: (12)

Thanks Kev for the info, I'll talk to Ed and most likely break it in with the blower, Just not redline it like you said. The mail order is just to make sure everything is right with the entire setup, and then off to the dyno.

Superado

iTrader: (34)

kev...what bearings and rings were you running in your old motor?

kp

iTrader: (34)

Dont remember, think the mains were clevite and the rods were FM. Didnt pay attention to what was in there to be honest. Rings were regular moly speed pro.

shankels94ta

iTrader: (1)

ever dyno the F1-A setup?