need some help guys

doing a lsx turbo in the new year-

i need help and direction-then i am on my way

i am going to use a lsx block-when i can get one-

track car- only
tyre size 28 high-8 wide(thats it)

want to make between 1000+1250 engine-

now-

methnanol only+no intercooler-


what i have already--
i have 16 -- 160 pounders new in the box+4 wilson fuel rails
+victor juinor+elbow 4150
bs3 is on its way+racepak stuff+dash
i have a dry sump tank new in the box 3-4 gallon??
jesels roller rockers to suit ls heads- not ls7 or l92 stuff
jesel timing case cover+adjustable cam gear+belt etc etc
fast methanol dual o2 kit-on its way-
ams-1000 on its way
msd crank trigger+7531 on its way
need to know

what cubes
what turbo or turbo's
who and what dry sump-who makes one to suit a ls1 without the tank-
what balancer-ati????
what blow offs+wastegates
what pumps

heads- i can work out
auto+convertor i can sort-
hot parts+pipe's +exhaust i can organised-

if i have left anything out please dont hold back-

if i am asking to much please tell me-

Thanks in advance guy's-

 

search up tiago, he's already been there done that with the LSx block

 

Let me know how the 16 injectors turn out on the victor jr. Me personally I dont see how your going to mount the second set.

 

In red above...............

 

Why stop at 370? There is no downside to more cubes, so go 400+. The upsides are clear. More power with less boost, so lower IATs, less parasitic losses. More cubes don't cost much, if any more, so the only downside is the thinner cylinder walls. But there are plenty enough high cube, 1000+ rwhp cars running around to convince me it's just as reliable.

Why do a dry sump? I read track only as meaning 1/4mi, in which case a dry sump won't really offer any advantages besides the 10-20hp. Just modify your pickup low and at the rear of the pan. Dry sumps add weight, cost, complexity. Now if tack only means with turns, then I can see the value in the DS.

 

why a dry sump- why not-10-20 hp is hp-why not protect it as much as i can and at the same gain some hp-

i know its not going to be cheap so do it once and once only-

i was thinking in the region of 364-370 or 383-

thanks for the info guys-

 

come on- thats not the hardest thing to do on this build-it can be done-

just need some time to work it all out- out-

 

If you've got the money, and the desire for dry sump, then go for it.

Why were you thinking 364-370 or 383? Why not go 400+? If you're willing to spend the money on a dry sump for 10-20hp, why not go extra cubes and gain 100-200hp, and more reliability/durability while you're at it?

 

i'm telling yall, just copy Tiago's setup, that'll get you all the power you want to handle

 

i understand-i said i was thinking in the region of 364-370- 383 never said i would never consider 400 cubes-

 

u got a thread link to tiago set-up

 

just did a real quick search and found it

search him up for more

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=tiago

 

thanks for that-

 

If your running a bs3 why the crank trigger and 3571 box? bs3 can do it all!!

 

here you go http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=34 Dont get me wrong I know what you are looking for but it seems there are some holes in your project.
If you are going with the BS3 why a MSD? I have never ran A intercooler with methonal(what heads are you planning on running?)
I like as much info as possible but .... What you have in the woodworks I would be looking @ EGT sensors's rather than a dual wideband setup

On the topic of the LSX setup I think you know what you are talking about. You just cannot get enough C.D. To safely make a lot of cubic inches with the short deck to build big power. Dont get me wrong... there is big power out there, but it should be used with extreme caution and a superb tune up. This kind of tune up can't be found on some online write up. It takes a LOT of trial and error. The motor we are building is a talldeck Warhawk that we are limiting to 440 cid for what we think is the minimal C.D. that it is going to take to get this thing in the mid 6's
What you really need to do is sit down and really, really think about what is going on here ... @ this point you need to throw shelf parts out the window... The matter of fact is to get custom stuff out of american suppliers is really not that much over shelf prices ( and you need custom stuff) We work very tight with our rotating assemblie suppliers to insure we have the best stuff availble at any given time.
We have the first talldeck warhawk availible sitting @ our shop right know, and plan to make 1800+ with it. With out hoping to have a block availible it has taking months of research to get get everything in check. I have been talking to MGP for three weeks just to get a rod built.... That is just what it takes.

Brent

 

i know the bs3 can do it-but i also bought the other stuff for an other project if i dont get to use it on this-

the ams-1000 is for this project-

 

i totaly agree their is a difference between my build and your's=hp

i am not aming to go to 1800- and yes getting to those hp levels requires a lot of maintainece-- parts like u have like mgp rods-in all honesty i can't be stuff changing them every 50-60 runs-

and i dont want to run 6's-

if i wanted to run 6's i would not bother doing it this way- i would just buy a car turn key like's chucks samuels car for example-

i am only wanting to go 7.80-8.20 on a 8 inch tyre- it will be very hard in my eye's to make it hook up but i am up for it-

 

There is a downside to bigger cubes with turbos.....backpressure and efficiency. Typically a smaller cube motor will work better then bigger in a drag racing application with a fixed hp goal.

 

This is coming from someone who has done what your askng to do .....

 

Sounds bit dodgy mate

I'd rather have the opposite.