400inch motor + F1C + SDCE... thoughts/ opinons?
#21
Price they gave me was sell it on ebay and buy a new F1C. A F1C would have cost 300 more when I was buying new but its not worth it to upgrade the F1A to an F1C they told me. I had a regular F1 here and the impeller and housing was different than the F1A, even where the air filter attached was machined completely different so I dont know. All I can go by is what the people at procharger tell me since I'm not going to buy a F1, F1C and F1R and take them apart to see exactly whats different
Either way if I really wanted a F1C (or R) I would buy one, I think the F1C would be best for a mid-range CID car and you would see less boost dropoff between shifts, at the expense of some peak flow. But seeing a F1R can put a car in the 7s I dont think I would possibly use an F1R to its potential. But I still dont think the SDCE will handle a F1C or F1R to be honest, but I'm sure Jimmy P will let us know.
Either way if I really wanted a F1C (or R) I would buy one, I think the F1C would be best for a mid-range CID car and you would see less boost dropoff between shifts, at the expense of some peak flow. But seeing a F1R can put a car in the 7s I dont think I would possibly use an F1R to its potential. But I still dont think the SDCE will handle a F1C or F1R to be honest, but I'm sure Jimmy P will let us know.
#22
Price they gave me was sell it on ebay and buy a new F1C. A F1C would have cost 300 more when I was buying new but its not worth it to upgrade the F1A to an F1C they told me. I had a regular F1 here and the impeller and housing was different than the F1A, even where the air filter attached was machined completely different so I dont know. All I can go by is what the people at procharger tell me since I'm not going to buy a F1, F1C and F1R and take them apart to see exactly whats different
Either way if I really wanted a F1C (or R) I would buy one, I think the F1C would be best for a mid-range CID car and you would see less boost dropoff between shifts, at the expense of some peak flow. But seeing a F1R can put a car in the 7s I dont think I would possibly use an F1R to its potential. But I still dont think the SDCE will handle a F1C or F1R to be honest, but I'm sure Jimmy P will let us know.
Either way if I really wanted a F1C (or R) I would buy one, I think the F1C would be best for a mid-range CID car and you would see less boost dropoff between shifts, at the expense of some peak flow. But seeing a F1R can put a car in the 7s I dont think I would possibly use an F1R to its potential. But I still dont think the SDCE will handle a F1C or F1R to be honest, but I'm sure Jimmy P will let us know.
Lots of good **** in this thread!
& Kev you dont know what i'm doin just yet, but i'm sure you'll find a way to put a bumper on me... LoL... I just need to get into the 8s to qualify in Drag Radial @ Milan like 14-16 haha... Outta control... Besides i'm sure our class will be running 7.50-7.70s next year and pushin 200...
J
#24
[QUOTE=Blownramair;8344408]I sure as hell want to know bc I hate to be the person to try this out... I'm actually curious to see how far the SDCE setup can go to be honest...
you don't have to try it... im doin it!
i make 18 psi with a 3.70 pulley/sdce setup. i don't have alot of data yet, but it seems to be working well so far.
you don't have to try it... im doin it!
i make 18 psi with a 3.70 pulley/sdce setup. i don't have alot of data yet, but it seems to be working well so far.
#25
I sure as hell want to know bc I hate to be the person to try this out... I'm actually curious to see how far the SDCE setup can go to be honest...
Lots of good **** in this thread!
& Kev you dont know what i'm doin just yet, but i'm sure you'll find a way to put a bumper on me... LoL... I just need to get into the 8s to qualify in Drag Radial @ Milan like 14-16 haha... Outta control... Besides i'm sure our class will be running 7.50-7.70s next year and pushin 200...
J
Lots of good **** in this thread!
& Kev you dont know what i'm doin just yet, but i'm sure you'll find a way to put a bumper on me... LoL... I just need to get into the 8s to qualify in Drag Radial @ Milan like 14-16 haha... Outta control... Besides i'm sure our class will be running 7.50-7.70s next year and pushin 200...
J
But OTOH that little bit of slip may be helping to not spin the damper off the tiny crank snout on the launch and most definately the slip when I dump the throttle is a good thing. I just think if you are after 100% no slip drag racing performance with an F1C or F1R the SDCE wont do it, I look forward to seeng some results next year.
#26
Hmmm, you know what-I may take a step backwards and go with the F1A. I've been hassled enough about having a big blower but having a dog down the track. So I really have a point to prove, so what better way than to prove it with a "baby blower".
#27
Since I dont heads up race the car, if it runs 8.90s or 9.20s it makes little difference really. But the little d1 just chugs along quietly with the 7.25/3.7 pulley. And I think the car still 60 foots the best with the D1 and the 7.25/3.4 pulley.
All these blowers have their place, I compare my car against similar CID/weight combos and if I am running within a few tenths of the fastest/quickest in the country with that size blower than I'm pretty happy. I see a D1SC being capable of 9.00s on my car, the F1A 8.70s, F1C 8.40s and and F1R 8.1x or so. Since my chassis stuff is only good to 8.50 no reason even thinking F1C or F1R really for me. For a heavy street car it really doesnt matter, you can put a F1R on it and have it run 9.90s @ 145 and everyone is happy, but if I had an F1R on my car and it ran 8.90s I would be pretty disappointed so its all relative.
Main thing is for YOU to be happy with it, I really just go out to the track and have fun with the car. Sure I'd like to run this or that number and I'd be lying if I didnt feel some competition to go a little quicker than certain others but i refuse too burn the thing down trying because fixing the car is not fun
#28
Well i only had 4 Full passes down the track-while working on the tune and getting used to the auto. With those 4 passes I ran 9.8,9.7,9.6 and 9.6-the rest where all either shut down and aborted-actually my 9.67 was an abort. Everytime i went to the track it was 85 degrees out or warmer as well. My car will never 60 foot faster than a 1.4-nor do I want it to-the chassis is just not made for it. So I have to be able to leave soft but have the power come on hard. The 402 and the mild 3200 stall should work well. Actually it's funny-i've never spun the tires on the dyno-but while i was building my maf table it blew off the tires!
Right now I don't have a head unit-I was leaning heavily towards a F2M-then said nah just go for the F1R-then after talking to some mod motor guys went to the F1C-then actually jumped ship and thought about a Ysi.
Dave@CDN perf just picked up a brand new 224X Dynojet that I will have the key to. We just took my 402 apart and installed a new blower cam, some morel lifters, some AFR 225's. I'm going to slap on the F1A with the LS6 intake and then a Vic Jr and then try one more blower grind.
My goal is simple-run faster than the current 9.33 record set by a Novi in a C5-I want to be the first A4 car to do it. Once I achieve that-then i'll try the F1R that my good buddy Dallas has-cause I know he'll be upping to a F2M as soon as those 12 ribs's are ready!
Right now I don't have a head unit-I was leaning heavily towards a F2M-then said nah just go for the F1R-then after talking to some mod motor guys went to the F1C-then actually jumped ship and thought about a Ysi.
Dave@CDN perf just picked up a brand new 224X Dynojet that I will have the key to. We just took my 402 apart and installed a new blower cam, some morel lifters, some AFR 225's. I'm going to slap on the F1A with the LS6 intake and then a Vic Jr and then try one more blower grind.
My goal is simple-run faster than the current 9.33 record set by a Novi in a C5-I want to be the first A4 car to do it. Once I achieve that-then i'll try the F1R that my good buddy Dallas has-cause I know he'll be upping to a F2M as soon as those 12 ribs's are ready!
#29
I'm sure an f1a can easily run faster than a 9.33 in an auto Z06, if you would have spent more time with your old 346/F1C I'm sure you would have beat it.
But it would be way cooler to be the first supercharged C5 with an A4 and IRS in the 8s though
But it would be way cooler to be the first supercharged C5 with an A4 and IRS in the 8s though
#30
All I need to do is make 900 rwhp and I think that should be enough in ideal conditions to put the car in the 9.0's-8.90's range. I sold my Patriots and just swapped over to the AFR225's-Dave@CDN perf and myself came up with another cam that specs out at 238/246 but not the lobes everyone would assume. My new 402 comes in at 9.99 CR with the AFR's. I'm going to dyno the car locked and unlocked to see where my converter is at-then i may also try a Vic Jr intake as well to see if helps push the motor up to 7000 rpm. Come middle of january after some time on the dyno were gonna head up to " House of Hook"-oh and I also picked up a "baby blower"-my guess i will be able to spin this to redline wihtout fear of slip. We'll see.
#31
Power isnt the issue really, its keeping the rear and trans in the car at those levels.
Let me know when you go to carolina, I may go down there. Nice track but make sure you have a chute on the car if you plan on going over 145, the end comes up pretty quick there. I'm going to make a few 1/8 passes in a few minutes and get everything broken in,
Let me know when you go to carolina, I may go down there. Nice track but make sure you have a chute on the car if you plan on going over 145, the end comes up pretty quick there. I'm going to make a few 1/8 passes in a few minutes and get everything broken in,
#32
Power isnt the issue really, its keeping the rear and trans in the car at those levels.
Let me know when you go to carolina, I may go down there. Nice track but make sure you have a chute on the car if you plan on going over 145, the end comes up pretty quick there. I'm going to make a few 1/8 passes in a few minutes and get everything broken in,
Let me know when you go to carolina, I may go down there. Nice track but make sure you have a chute on the car if you plan on going over 145, the end comes up pretty quick there. I'm going to make a few 1/8 passes in a few minutes and get everything broken in,
Exactly-that's why i'm keeping the 3200 stall-makes for a soft launch. As for the chute-well eventually-but I still have those amazing Z06 brakes on the car!!!
I'll keep you psoted for sure kp-it would great to meet you!
Oh and to bring this thread back on topic-guys I would recomend the F1A to try first over the F1C or R-with our eight rib belt system-it's imperrative to get a blower that you can spin easier.
#33
all righty... i think the SDCE setup should handle the F1C, if not, procharger makes the brackety for a cog setup and their fancy spring valve thingy... which should work. i may just need some more space underneath the car...
J
J
#34
F1C will fit with no problem, biggest pain is getting an elbow on there to use a filter since the inlet is larger diameter. If you want to use a filter anyhow..
I thought you were going turbo
I thought you were going turbo
#35
And goes for the turbo... we'll thats when i get the money for a 25.5 cage, a2w intercooler should i keep goin? the money to fab up this fandazzle... haha and plenty more to spend their too...
The engine will handle 25-30psi w/o any problem w/ the 6bolt heads... Besides i love the sound of a procharger rather than a turbo... i'll give up the extra 100 or so horse for the SOUND...
And did i mention... i still go grocery shopping in this car... LoL... 8.50s is more than enough for a street car... u think?
J
#36
I like the blowers myself, I know I could go faster with a turbo as well but the SDCE/procharger is just such a simple, trouble free and compact package its hard to make the switch for me. But then again I'm not worried about keeping up with 7 second cars at the local track.
I could drive mine anywhere, I'm just one of those people who cant go 100 feet in a fast car and not floor it so I would just get myself in trouble if I cruised it. Got too much to lose these days if something bad happened, this thing is a luxury cruiser compared to some other 8-9 second cars I drove quite a bit in the past
I could drive mine anywhere, I'm just one of those people who cant go 100 feet in a fast car and not floor it so I would just get myself in trouble if I cruised it. Got too much to lose these days if something bad happened, this thing is a luxury cruiser compared to some other 8-9 second cars I drove quite a bit in the past
#37
I like the blowers myself, I know I could go faster with a turbo as well but the SDCE/procharger is just such a simple, trouble free and compact package its hard to make the switch for me. But then again I'm not worried about keeping up with 7 second cars at the local track.
I could drive mine anywhere, I'm just one of those people who cant go 100 feet in a fast car and not floor it so I would just get myself in trouble if I cruised it. Got too much to lose these days if something bad happened, this thing is a luxury cruiser compared to some other 8-9 second cars I drove quite a bit in the past
I could drive mine anywhere, I'm just one of those people who cant go 100 feet in a fast car and not floor it so I would just get myself in trouble if I cruised it. Got too much to lose these days if something bad happened, this thing is a luxury cruiser compared to some other 8-9 second cars I drove quite a bit in the past
J
#38
Jay maybe wait until Bob get's that 12 rib setup-then you could probaby use the F2M. If you want cogs take a look at what the mod motor guys setup looks like. Basically it's 2 spacers on each head and then a plate that goes across them with the blower mounted-that would be the ticket for a Cog.
#39
Jay maybe wait until Bob get's that 12 rib setup-then you could probaby use the F2M. If you want cogs take a look at what the mod motor guys setup looks like. Basically it's 2 spacers on each head and then a plate that goes across them with the blower mounted-that would be the ticket for a Cog.
J
#40
I never said it wont work, problem I see is in 1st gear. It will most definately slip a little, in the beginning of the year it was pretty bad but after I found the EWP dripping on the belt I though I had that handled. But as soon as it cooled off it started doing it again, how much of a real world different in ET it makes I dont know but you can see the boost level off very early in 1st gear and lose 2-3psi (you can ever hear the belt screech in the car sometimes), in second everything catches back up. Most likely the slip that I'm seeing wont affect 99% of other people one bit, but I know Jayson is looking for ET.
But OTOH that little bit of slip may be helping to not spin the damper off the tiny crank snout on the launch and most definately the slip when I dump the throttle is a good thing. I just think if you are after 100% no slip drag racing performance with an F1C or F1R the SDCE wont do it, I look forward to seeng some results next year.
As far as Cog drive, think of the same instant acceleration rate as discussed above - the rpm's still go from high to low instantly - all that energy still has to go somewhere...it just gets filtered thru the crank and the engine ultimately beating the hell out of it. (take a credit card and bend it back and forth...you can only do it so many times before it breaks) In our research and testing, cog systems didn't stand up to 450 or so HP, so we couldn't see how the hell it was going to stand up and last for any more than that?? UNLESS you're a professional race team and you can afford to replace your crank and/or engine on a regular basis, cog systems aren't very practical or efficient for the everyday racer.