wow, I am with above on that one, 8's for a th400 
4l80e for a turbo car
4l80e for a turbo car I just finished my motor. specs in my sig. im planning on going witha pt91.5 looking to run 8's. well it will be a track car but i would like to run it on the street time to time. Mabe do 65 on the express way time to time. but not much street time though. How well will a 4l80e work with my set up? do it rob the engine of more horsepower than a 400 ? or will it be a waist running a over drive trans. I can get the trans converter and controller for 1400 from a guy close by me. What do you think and how many guys are running 4l80e's ?
I have a friend that spent 8 g's on a 4l80 this summer from a sponser here and it broke twice and its basically unless....so two weeks later he spent another 8 g's on a 400 and it works mint...he has gone mid 8's
8gs on a th400??????
I have a Hughes-built 80E and love it, and I'm currently in the 630rwhp range with a blown 383, and heading towards the high 6xxrwhp range when I finish this 434" motor. Then comes the nitrous/methanol setup which should easily put me in the high 800 rwt range.
The only thing I'm changing with the bump is the converter - I really want solid lockup performance under WOT - so I went to a 9.5", 5-disc Vigilante lockup rated to 1600HP.
Total in the 80E, converter and electronics to date: $5800. If I could have found an 80E core to send them, I could have gotten $1000 back, but nothing was around that made it worthwhile factoring in the shipping.
My rough measurements show the entire combo weighs about 80 lbs. more than the 4L60 it replaced, before I added the deep pan. Adding the deep pan mostly added fluid weight, because now it takes about 13.5 quarts of fluid to fill.
The 9.5" Vigilante should cut a couple quarts out, because the Hughes converter I have now is a 12" monster.
Love the programmability - Grandma mellow around town until I hit 47% TPS (where my secondaries start to open), then I have it set to neck-snapping shifts and lockup under WOT. And it's delivering a solid 20mpg, too.
Jim
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Verdad Gallardo It must be a custom case made of platinum... that's crazy otherwise...
I have a Hughes-built 80E and love it, and I'm currently in the 630rwhp range with a blown 383, and heading towards the high 6xxrwhp range when I finish this 434" motor. Then comes the nitrous/methanol setup which should easily put me in the high 800 rwt range.
The only thing I'm changing with the bump is the converter - I really want solid lockup performance under WOT - so I went to a 9.5", 5-disc Vigilante lockup rated to 1600HP.
Total in the 80E, converter and electronics to date: $5800. If I could have found an 80E core to send them, I could have gotten $1000 back, but nothing was around that made it worthwhile factoring in the shipping.
My rough measurements show the entire combo weighs about 80 lbs. more than the 4L60 it replaced, before I added the deep pan. Adding the deep pan mostly added fluid weight, because now it takes about 13.5 quarts of fluid to fill.
The 9.5" Vigilante should cut a couple quarts out, because the Hughes converter I have now is a 12" monster.
Love the programmability - Grandma mellow around town until I hit 47% TPS (where my secondaries start to open), then I have it set to neck-snapping shifts and lockup under WOT. And it's delivering a solid 20mpg, too.
Jim
I have a Hughes-built 80E and love it, and I'm currently in the 630rwhp range with a blown 383, and heading towards the high 6xxrwhp range when I finish this 434" motor. Then comes the nitrous/methanol setup which should easily put me in the high 800 rwt range.
The only thing I'm changing with the bump is the converter - I really want solid lockup performance under WOT - so I went to a 9.5", 5-disc Vigilante lockup rated to 1600HP.
Total in the 80E, converter and electronics to date: $5800. If I could have found an 80E core to send them, I could have gotten $1000 back, but nothing was around that made it worthwhile factoring in the shipping.
My rough measurements show the entire combo weighs about 80 lbs. more than the 4L60 it replaced, before I added the deep pan. Adding the deep pan mostly added fluid weight, because now it takes about 13.5 quarts of fluid to fill.
The 9.5" Vigilante should cut a couple quarts out, because the Hughes converter I have now is a 12" monster.
Love the programmability - Grandma mellow around town until I hit 47% TPS (where my secondaries start to open), then I have it set to neck-snapping shifts and lockup under WOT. And it's delivering a solid 20mpg, too.
Jim
thats makes sense now a 210th400 with a NC bolt together converter 8k is right, you have to be a little more specific next time.
If you want an 80E that will live give Rossler a call. I have everything in mine along with his 210 gear set. It's gone 7.90's without flinching and im looking to go atleast a couple tenths faster in '08. 
I think a few of you are missing some things on the cost of this guys trans setup. The converter he has is ~ 1800.00, A TH400 with all the billet upgrades, and the 2.10 5 pinion gear set etc.... has an easy 3500.00 in hard parts before the SFI bellhousing so this is an easy 6,000 in parts then someone has to build everything it is steep but possible if it truley has the best of everything.
FWIW - I have ~ 5500.00 in my 80E warranted to 1200 HP from Gear Star. Ive only hit it w/ ~ 800 so far but its been great. On the street rolling @ 50 lock the converter and grab both kits = lots o fun.
Back on topic though,
You really cant go wrong either way 400 or 80e. I would say its about 30% less money to do a 400 vs 80e assuming all the exact same upgraded parts. The 80E will eat approx 2% more power and will weigh ~ 65lbs more.
I just shipped my 80E, Yank PY3400 & HGM Compushift electronics back to gear star for a full manual valve body conversion and the un-crated weight was 260 lbs w/o fluid (Drained as much as possible w/o disassembly)
I've had 3 different 60E's, a RMVB TH400 & now the 80E in this car and Its a real toss up between the 400 & 80.
FWIW - I have ~ 5500.00 in my 80E warranted to 1200 HP from Gear Star. Ive only hit it w/ ~ 800 so far but its been great. On the street rolling @ 50 lock the converter and grab both kits = lots o fun.
Back on topic though,
You really cant go wrong either way 400 or 80e. I would say its about 30% less money to do a 400 vs 80e assuming all the exact same upgraded parts. The 80E will eat approx 2% more power and will weigh ~ 65lbs more.
I just shipped my 80E, Yank PY3400 & HGM Compushift electronics back to gear star for a full manual valve body conversion and the un-crated weight was 260 lbs w/o fluid (Drained as much as possible w/o disassembly)
I've had 3 different 60E's, a RMVB TH400 & now the 80E in this car and Its a real toss up between the 400 & 80.
