What Turbo Kit Should I Get?
What Turbo Kit Should I Get? Well I've been looking into it, and I really wanna do a turbo kit on my car. Not sure if I wanna do a twin or single setup yet. I was wondering, from personal expirience, what kits would you recomend. I've looked up a few different kits including the APS F-Body Twin Turbo kit, which I am really interested in. Basically, I want something I can run on my stock motor, and when I build my new motor, I can still make good power with. So please let me know what you all think....Thank you....
-Dave-
-Dave-
FormerVendor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: Eastern PA
what are your power goals?? and be realistic with yourself when you set these.
is keeping accessories important??
is it gonna be a track or street application??
there are aot of factors you have to think about before you can make some decisions. there are a ton of good kits out now a days to meet everyones demands. APS is great is your lookin to stay in the 500-900rwhp and want to keep all accessories.
theres also Speedinc. TTI. Ohio FI. and Stenod. all these companies have great kits that make tons of power but you may lose or have to relocate some accessories.
is keeping accessories important??
is it gonna be a track or street application??
there are aot of factors you have to think about before you can make some decisions. there are a ton of good kits out now a days to meet everyones demands. APS is great is your lookin to stay in the 500-900rwhp and want to keep all accessories.
theres also Speedinc. TTI. Ohio FI. and Stenod. all these companies have great kits that make tons of power but you may lose or have to relocate some accessories.
what are your power goals?? and be realistic with yourself when you set these.
is keeping accessories important??
is it gonna be a track or street application??
there are aot of factors you have to think about before you can make some decisions. there are a ton of good kits out now a days to meet everyones demands. APS is great is your lookin to stay in the 500-900rwhp and want to keep all accessories.
theres also Speedinc. TTI. Ohio FI. and Stenod. all these companies have great kits that make tons of power but you may lose or have to relocate some accessories.
is keeping accessories important??
is it gonna be a track or street application??
there are aot of factors you have to think about before you can make some decisions. there are a ton of good kits out now a days to meet everyones demands. APS is great is your lookin to stay in the 500-900rwhp and want to keep all accessories.
theres also Speedinc. TTI. Ohio FI. and Stenod. all these companies have great kits that make tons of power but you may lose or have to relocate some accessories.
There were not many choices for our cars until recently. The three main fi companies seem to be ATI, STS and APS. Then you have the other shops doing their custom stuff. I lost 2000 bucks with one of these sponsored smaller shops last year.Company went down ,deposit went bye bye.
Then went with APS. APS sent the product when they said they would,in fact it was a week or so early! It looks to be great quality and let me keep my air conditioning..a nice bonus on a street car and you don't really have to move anything like alt,etc. It comes with big intercooler in the kit. It is twin system ,doesn't need an oil scavenger pump. Looks to be decent for ground clearance. It does require bmr k member and custom dual exhaust or aftermarket ypipe.
While I don't have it installed as recieved it a bit too late in the season to install it I am confident you should be able to run it on your stock engine at low boost until you build a forged up one. I plan on a forged 408 and likely will be ordering it in next few months.
I would recommend APS without hesitation. And would be extremely wary of giving larger deposits to any of the smaller companies. Lesson learned.
Then went with APS. APS sent the product when they said they would,in fact it was a week or so early! It looks to be great quality and let me keep my air conditioning..a nice bonus on a street car and you don't really have to move anything like alt,etc. It comes with big intercooler in the kit. It is twin system ,doesn't need an oil scavenger pump. Looks to be decent for ground clearance. It does require bmr k member and custom dual exhaust or aftermarket ypipe.
While I don't have it installed as recieved it a bit too late in the season to install it I am confident you should be able to run it on your stock engine at low boost until you build a forged up one. I plan on a forged 408 and likely will be ordering it in next few months.
I would recommend APS without hesitation. And would be extremely wary of giving larger deposits to any of the smaller companies. Lesson learned.
Go to APS website and read all about their system. They use tweaked mitsubishi 20g turbos cable of around 50 pounds per minute airflo. This is equivalent to about 1000 engine hp potential. They have pushed a their test engine to this range. But they did use some different wheels in the one test. They posted 500rwhp on their webside on tired old stock 346. Their dyno is also conservative compared to dynojet numbers.
A few on this board have already dynoed their APS. Just search thru some of the threads.
The come with springs set at 7.5 pounds. This about around max I would take the stock motor too.You could go a bit higher if you use larger chamber heads to drop compression and alc injection is a good safety device with any fi setup forced to run pump gas.
A few on this board have already dynoed their APS. Just search thru some of the threads.
The come with springs set at 7.5 pounds. This about around max I would take the stock motor too.You could go a bit higher if you use larger chamber heads to drop compression and alc injection is a good safety device with any fi setup forced to run pump gas.
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Verdad Gallardo One more question....on a stock motor with injectors and a fuel pump....what kind of numbers are the APS kits showing....I looked at the dyno sheets on the APS site, and the reason I'm asking, is because I noticed that the stock car put down roughly 250whp. I know my car is well over 250whp, is anyone noticing more than the 500whp claimed by the APS website?
Another guy on this forum did think 500rwhp on his aps on stock engine. That may also be on mustang or non dynojet dyno.They read low. APS dynoed on non dynojet dyno and that was a tired engine. You should easily see 500rwhp for sure though on just about any good shape stock ls1 motor.And that is still pretty much 600 engine hp. I woudn't be too worried about power,just traction!
Yea...I know traction will be a concern...I was just wondering about power...cause I really wanna see over 5xxwhp. I am definate the way my car sits now is over 340whp. So will that effect my total after the turbo kit?
What's the price range of the APS kits? I looked through all the dealers the other day and found nothing. How much would one have to spend for the basic kit before upgrades? Any faivorites, I'm in Houston.
Vernon
Vernon
I have the APS kit on my car. Stock engine, just upgraded valve springs & pushrods during my install. You will also NEED to upgrade your fuel system. I did a racetronix in-tank and hotwire kit and added 60# injectors. New plugs & wires and bolted on the APS kit. As mentioned you do need the BMR K-member as well. So there are a lot of additional items needed but the kit comes VERY complete.
With this set-up my tuner gave me a safe street tune for a worst cast of 92 octane fuel. And I put down 508rwhp/513rwtq. It is already more power than I have traction available. But it pulls like a freight train throughout the rev range. I have been daily driving it from when I got my install done until the car went into storage for the winter. I got 17city/24hwy mileage and put 4,000 miles on it just in October! No problems at all from my end. Just get in and drive the car. I have noticed a few oil drips under the car since it has been in storage. Probably a fitting I need to tighten. But it is only a few drips after sitting for a month. So all in all I cannot complain. Just need to hope the rest of my drivetrain survives for now. I am expecting to need a trans rebuild at some point and a new rearend is in the works for 2008 season. Feel free to ask any other questions you may have.
With this set-up my tuner gave me a safe street tune for a worst cast of 92 octane fuel. And I put down 508rwhp/513rwtq. It is already more power than I have traction available. But it pulls like a freight train throughout the rev range. I have been daily driving it from when I got my install done until the car went into storage for the winter. I got 17city/24hwy mileage and put 4,000 miles on it just in October! No problems at all from my end. Just get in and drive the car. I have noticed a few oil drips under the car since it has been in storage. Probably a fitting I need to tighten. But it is only a few drips after sitting for a month. So all in all I cannot complain. Just need to hope the rest of my drivetrain survives for now. I am expecting to need a trans rebuild at some point and a new rearend is in the works for 2008 season. Feel free to ask any other questions you may have.
Zero ,if you want to see over 500 you can still do various mods to your stock engine or you already have. You can't use headers of course the turbos come with their own exhaust manifolds. You can use upgraded cam as long as its not totally turbo unfriendly. You can upgrade intake manifold, change out heads,use underdrive pulley. Bigger maf,ported tb or bigger tb. ,electric waterpump.
You can run more boost safely if you use bigger chamber heads like afr 225 72cc or patriot 72cc heads. You can run alc injection so you can run more timing, boost and leaner afr.
Of course if you have a forged engine then you can put out way way more power.850rwhp/1000 engine hp with the kit is not impossible on fully forged built up 346.
You can run more boost safely if you use bigger chamber heads like afr 225 72cc or patriot 72cc heads. You can run alc injection so you can run more timing, boost and leaner afr.
Of course if you have a forged engine then you can put out way way more power.850rwhp/1000 engine hp with the kit is not impossible on fully forged built up 346.
Zero ,if you want to see over 500 you can still do various mods to your stock engine or you already have. You can't use headers of course the turbos come with their own exhaust manifolds. You can use upgraded cam as long as its not totally turbo unfriendly. You can upgrade intake manifold, change out heads,use underdrive pulley. Bigger maf,ported tb or bigger tb. ,electric waterpump.
You can run more boost safely if you use bigger chamber heads like afr 225 72cc or patriot 72cc heads. You can run alc injection so you can run more timing, boost and leaner afr.
Of course if you have a forged engine then you can put out way way more power.850rwhp/1000 engine hp with the kit is not impossible on fully forged built up 346.
You can run more boost safely if you use bigger chamber heads like afr 225 72cc or patriot 72cc heads. You can run alc injection so you can run more timing, boost and leaner afr.
Of course if you have a forged engine then you can put out way way more power.850rwhp/1000 engine hp with the kit is not impossible on fully forged built up 346.
You can run more boost and timing due to the octane boost and cooler IATs meth gives you.
Um maybe with pure meth not simple alc,water injection..
"No. It's a good/proven/reliable/safe/correct way to add power. Water Injection is amazing. You don't have to use fuel to cool your cylinder walls and pistons. You lean your afr way out (like 12.5:1) and actually run cooler EGTs. One of my friends that runs W/I runs 15 psi on his 2.5RS with 10:1 compression ratio. He makes a ton of safe and reliable horsepower."
If you check out what APS is running on their own dynos on their forged engine they are running past 10.5 to 1 by quite a bit with alc injection..don't think they are running straight meth though.
Of course running leaner is riskier if your alc container runs empty.
I have little experience with pure meth. Most guys I know run 50/50 or whatever type of mix. And most everyone that runs it uses it to get more boost,more timing and leaner afr.
Of course watching the scanners for knock. Now running a bit richer is usually safer of course especially if that alc does run out.
And generally more boost makes more power than bit leaner afrs. Generally in order of power output its boost, then timing then afr. I may be a bit of rookie to turbo v8s but have had and have lots of turbo cars if you see my sig.
"No. It's a good/proven/reliable/safe/correct way to add power. Water Injection is amazing. You don't have to use fuel to cool your cylinder walls and pistons. You lean your afr way out (like 12.5:1) and actually run cooler EGTs. One of my friends that runs W/I runs 15 psi on his 2.5RS with 10:1 compression ratio. He makes a ton of safe and reliable horsepower."
If you check out what APS is running on their own dynos on their forged engine they are running past 10.5 to 1 by quite a bit with alc injection..don't think they are running straight meth though.
Of course running leaner is riskier if your alc container runs empty.
I have little experience with pure meth. Most guys I know run 50/50 or whatever type of mix. And most everyone that runs it uses it to get more boost,more timing and leaner afr.
Of course watching the scanners for knock. Now running a bit richer is usually safer of course especially if that alc does run out.
And generally more boost makes more power than bit leaner afrs. Generally in order of power output its boost, then timing then afr. I may be a bit of rookie to turbo v8s but have had and have lots of turbo cars if you see my sig.
I gotta tell you that is backwards from everything I have ever read or experienced myslef. Look at what the fast guys on this board are doing, not one of them is running meth so they can lean out their tune. They are all running considerably richer than they would with out meth.
Think about it adding meth drops IAT's and increases your total octane. Using less of it will give you less of an octane boost and higher IAT's.
Running pure meth you would want your AFR to be in the neighborhood of 8 or 9 : 1 (don't remember off hand exactly). Mixing with gas raises that point, but certianly not leaner than you would want with gasoline alone.
Pure meth is hands down better than any mix of meth & water FWIW..
Anyway, to the OP, sorry for getting off topic. I am happy with my APS kit, but am somewhat concerned by the issues some people are having. I myself have not seen any problems so far.
Think about it adding meth drops IAT's and increases your total octane. Using less of it will give you less of an octane boost and higher IAT's.
Running pure meth you would want your AFR to be in the neighborhood of 8 or 9 : 1 (don't remember off hand exactly). Mixing with gas raises that point, but certianly not leaner than you would want with gasoline alone.
Pure meth is hands down better than any mix of meth & water FWIW..
Anyway, to the OP, sorry for getting off topic. I am happy with my APS kit, but am somewhat concerned by the issues some people are having. I myself have not seen any problems so far.
Peter
http://www.airpowersystems.com/fbody/wastegates.htm