14.5:1 Compression single 106MM
01-15-2008, 09:09 PM
#41
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Too all my Brothers on here that I haven't met in person but will talk too you the same on here as in real life...You can run Alky on the Street and love it...
We ran a SBF down here with a Ron Toilet Injection and was vary street Friendly in a 13:1 motor and had a plate uder that but never needed it!
Befor you say about it burning 2x as much...Almost yes but not quite and averaged a little less than 116....Going too town and back was great...Long drives,no or had too have a follow vehicle with extra fuel carried...
This car ran great with it!
heres a pic of the Rons ....
We ran a SBF down here with a Ron Toilet Injection and was vary street Friendly in a 13:1 motor and had a plate uder that but never needed it!
Befor you say about it burning 2x as much...Almost yes but not quite and averaged a little less than 116....Going too town and back was great...Long drives,no or had too have a follow vehicle with extra fuel carried...
This car ran great with it!
heres a pic of the Rons ....
Last edited by MustangBilly; 01-15-2008 at 09:18 PM.
01-15-2008, 09:14 PM
#42
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I can still be friends with a hater! lolKnow how too turn a mean person nice over time?
Kill'em with Kindness!
01-15-2008, 09:28 PM
#43
The fuel injection is the hard part for me to swallow with alky. 16 160lb injectors or 8 380lb injectors and a BS3 setup. I am beginning to think a blow through carb setup is the best bet. Blow through carb, 347 LS1, 91mm turbo, non intercooled... It could be pretty impressive. Use a MSD 7531 box for timming, if the 7531 will work with an LS1...
Hmmm...
Hmmm...
01-15-2008, 09:41 PM
#44
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The fuel injection is the hard part for me to swallow with alky. 16 160lb injectors or 8 380lb injectors and a BS3 setup. I am beginning to think a blow through carb setup is the best bet. Blow through carb, 347 LS1, 91mm turbo, non intercooled... It could be pretty impressive. Use a MSD 7531 box for timming, if the 7531 will work with an LS1...
Hmmm...
Hmmm...
The Ron's toilet Injection is just like F.I. and is very Responsive and works like F.I.
http://www.ronsfuel.com/flying_toilet.cfm
That is what I would use...
look at my pic above..it just plums into the intake runners and fuel pump requires no electronics and is belt driven...
01-15-2008, 10:20 PM
#47
The fuel injection is the hard part for me to swallow with alky. 16 160lb injectors or 8 380lb injectors and a BS3 setup. I am beginning to think a blow through carb setup is the best bet. Blow through carb, 347 LS1, 91mm turbo, non intercooled... It could be pretty impressive. Use a MSD 7531 box for timming, if the 7531 will work with an LS1...
01-15-2008, 10:28 PM
#48
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What are you shooting for power wise? I'm running a FAST with one set of 160's and I thought I would of been out out of injector by now, just under 1100 HP at the wheels. So far its been responding with increases to base fuel pressure. I'm at 55 psig and I'll keep on bumping it up until it stops responding to increases in pressure.
01-15-2008, 10:30 PM
#49
What are you shooting for power wise? I'm running a FAST with one set of 160's and I thought I would of been out out of injector by now, just under 1100 HP at the wheels. So far its been responding with increases to base fuel pressure. I'm at 55 psig and I'll keep on bumping it up until it stops responding to increases in pressure.
01-16-2008, 07:11 AM
#52
$1700.00 On here. With intake and all needed parts I think $2500.00 will do it.
We are often asked, why should I switch to alcohol from gas and from a carburetor to fuel injection?
good info
We are often asked, why should I switch to alcohol from gas and from a carburetor to fuel injection?
1: To alcohol from gas:
Alcohol burns more slowly so it doesn’t build as much engine heat each run.
The engine is easier to cool between rounds.
You can run higher compression ratios (up to 16:1 is ok, 13.8:1 is our ideal) if you wish but it works great on 10:1 too.
Alcohol is less flammable so it is safer and easier to handle.
It is cheaper. Though you will use more, the cost is less per gallon.
Engines last longer.
The switching process requires:
Good fuel line fittings (preferably anodized aluminum).
A plastic fuel cell or hard anodized fuel tank.
Top lube for fuel helps prevent corrosion and lubricates the valve stems.
One full day at home working on the change once all the parts are in place.
Install parts
Remove intake manifold, drill 8 holes and tap for 1/8” pipe (90 degrees to intake runner path) for nozzle bodies and set them to spray at the valve.
Run the return line to the fuel tank.
Remove the electric fuel pump.
Put turn-outs on the exhaust system.
If you have a fuel cell, call the maker to determine if the “ballast” sponges are alcohol compatible. If they aren’t, get a recommendation from the maker.
You should also buy a 4 oz bottle of concentrated “fuel fragrance”. Added to a 55 gallon drum of fuel, it gives burnt fuel a much more pleasant smell.
Alcohol burns more slowly so it doesn’t build as much engine heat each run.
The engine is easier to cool between rounds.
You can run higher compression ratios (up to 16:1 is ok, 13.8:1 is our ideal) if you wish but it works great on 10:1 too.
Alcohol is less flammable so it is safer and easier to handle.
It is cheaper. Though you will use more, the cost is less per gallon.
Engines last longer.
The switching process requires:
Good fuel line fittings (preferably anodized aluminum).
A plastic fuel cell or hard anodized fuel tank.
Top lube for fuel helps prevent corrosion and lubricates the valve stems.
One full day at home working on the change once all the parts are in place.
Install parts
Remove intake manifold, drill 8 holes and tap for 1/8” pipe (90 degrees to intake runner path) for nozzle bodies and set them to spray at the valve.
Run the return line to the fuel tank.
Remove the electric fuel pump.
Put turn-outs on the exhaust system.
If you have a fuel cell, call the maker to determine if the “ballast” sponges are alcohol compatible. If they aren’t, get a recommendation from the maker.
You should also buy a 4 oz bottle of concentrated “fuel fragrance”. Added to a 55 gallon drum of fuel, it gives burnt fuel a much more pleasant smell.
01-16-2008, 08:21 AM
#53
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$2,500 for my Blow Thru Carb....Or less than a $1,000 for a nice Alky Carb itself not designed for and will not work for a Blow Thru set up...Ask me how I know...
01-16-2008, 09:30 AM
#55
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01-16-2008, 10:34 AM
#56
You running alky? I would like to see a 347ci 91mm combo do 1100rwhp.
I'm using MLS gaskets here too.
01-16-2008, 10:47 AM
#59
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Yes. The 160's should only be good to 8-900ish with Methanol at 80% duty cycle. Mine ended up flowing 172 at 43 psig on the flow bench. Ive upped my pressure and I'm running at 100% dc to reach the levels I'm at now. I'll keep on bumping up the pressure until the drivers in the FAST box aren't able to do their job. At that time, I'll add additional injectors upstream.
I'm using MLS gaskets here too.
I'm using MLS gaskets here too.