New Motor and blower
The time it takes to nail down a safe tune is too long before going WOT. Break-in miles are for rear end gears and transmissions, not engines. The faster you get the rings seated under normal (WOT) operating conditions, the better.
i dont know how well it is to do. but we broke our motor in on the dyno. I think dynojet has some breakin procedured u can do. its been together all last year, so far no problems. I know this isnt exactly what u was asking.
If you have it on an engine dyno, run it as ******* hard as you can as soon as you can (after one heat cycle on the valvesprings, of course). If the motor is in the car, you have to weigh the motor break-in against the rear and trans, which need heat cycles and a softer run-in.
We try to get 50 miles or more on the engine, and you don't want to baby the engine during this time. We normally are breaking in a transmission and sometimes a new rear at the same time. We don't take then engines wide open throttle during this time, but we drive them briskly and we try not to keep the rpm at any given range for very long. Bob
Interesting thread, subscribing, never really considered the tranny/rear at all but mostly the motor. If doing everything at once than what is advised over just the motor alone? I've so far researched on engine breakins and never really thought much about the drivetrain.
I have read though about using non-synthetic oil(not sure what viscosity) for the first 500 miles atleast (up to 2-3k) and beat on it somewhat to seat the rings most importantly like Bob has mentioned. During this time you want to get a base tune and not rev it through the whole rpm range at WOT but leaning on it hard at short burst. Chaning the oil very frequently. Like 3-5 times. Can't remember that bulk **** that was reccommended to me now? Just saw it the other day. So how far off am I guys? Not there yet and not trying to
thought it would be beneficial for many of us?
I have read though about using non-synthetic oil(not sure what viscosity) for the first 500 miles atleast (up to 2-3k) and beat on it somewhat to seat the rings most importantly like Bob has mentioned. During this time you want to get a base tune and not rev it through the whole rpm range at WOT but leaning on it hard at short burst. Chaning the oil very frequently. Like 3-5 times. Can't remember that bulk **** that was reccommended to me now? Just saw it the other day. So how far off am I guys? Not there yet and not trying to
thought it would be beneficial for many of us? Trending Topics
Damn bro, just checked out your vid now that is a hardcore build man, probably the raddest LT1 I've seen. Do you have any numbers on your new setup yet, I take it not since you are asking the above question. Should be a beast!
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We do this when breaking in our engines. Start it up with regular dino oil. Run a couple of heat cycles on it then change the oil. I like to put 250 miles on my engines going in and out of boost. Basicly seating the rings under boost. Which is the enviroment they will live in. Then I rip it up on the dyno and striaght to the track after that. 
We do this when breaking in our engines. Start it up with regular dino oil. Run a couple of heat cycles on it then change the oil. I like to put 250 miles on my engines going in and out of boost. Basicly seating the rings under boost. Which is the enviroment they will live in. Then I rip it up on the dyno and striaght to the track after that.
I assume this is what most do here as well as the original poster? Thanks Right on thanks, how long do you usually run them on the dino oil until switching to full synthetic? By than I assume its more than ready for normal use and a full dyno tune! I myself will be basically breaking it in and tuning it myself with the help of my friend than driving it to the dyno. Which is 2.5-3 hours away, so I want it to be somewhat fully broke in and ready for it to do its job once it has its final dyno tune I assume this is what most do here as well as the original poster? Thanks
I assume this is what most do here as well as the original poster? Thanks
The harder the engine is ran the better
awesome of you to say ! i mainly started this thread because i put 10-15k into my last engine build, blew it up before 800miles. only time it was really beat on was that video of the boost gauge, 
. obviously i waited too long! just last week i got my motor back. another 1500 to replace everything i ruined. its too expensive to chance it again. i have to do it right this time! very frustrated! and too Bob @ EPP . im the one with the car at a&k power house performance (kyle) yeah the one who always calls u haha. we bought many parts through you! . Therefore the engine again has 0 miles on it and has a D1. driveshaft 0 miles. moser rear end 0 miles. and just need to know when i should get it tuned so i dont SCREW UP AGAIN!
If you haven't tuned your motor I wouldn't run it hard, it could be running on the lean side which is something you don't want to do under WOT or at high rpm.
I would take it out and drive it for a while, rings don't take that long to seat, but it in my opinion would be good to run the car, make sure you have no leaks, make sure there are no visible problems and noticeable sounds and so forth.
A nice freeway drive 50 miles and some stop and go stop light runs on the gas a little not WOT and it should be good to run.
I also broke mine in with 20w50 which I was told helps the rings seat faster.
I would take it out and drive it for a while, rings don't take that long to seat, but it in my opinion would be good to run the car, make sure you have no leaks, make sure there are no visible problems and noticeable sounds and so forth.
A nice freeway drive 50 miles and some stop and go stop light runs on the gas a little not WOT and it should be good to run.
I also broke mine in with 20w50 which I was told helps the rings seat faster.
If you haven't tuned your motor I wouldn't run it hard, it could be running on the lean side which is something you don't want to do under WOT or at high rpm.
I would take it out and drive it for a while, rings don't take that long to seat, but it in my opinion would be good to run the car, make sure you have no leaks, make sure there are no visible problems and noticeable sounds and so forth.
A nice freeway drive 50 miles and some stop and go stop light runs on the gas a little not WOT and it should be good to run.
I also broke mine in with 20w50 which I was told helps the rings seat faster.
I would take it out and drive it for a while, rings don't take that long to seat, but it in my opinion would be good to run the car, make sure you have no leaks, make sure there are no visible problems and noticeable sounds and so forth.
A nice freeway drive 50 miles and some stop and go stop light runs on the gas a little not WOT and it should be good to run.
I also broke mine in with 20w50 which I was told helps the rings seat faster.
Hmmmm, thanks for your input as well. Sounds good to me, I couldn't rememeber the oil either and could be wrong but thought I remember hearing something like 0w40
Not sure though? 
Comp even wants you to break in their valve springs with a single cycle up to temp then a cooldown to ambient.
My last 2 motors I ran dino oil (Rotella non-synthetic) until the vapors coming out of my catch cans diminished (~3500 miles), then switched to Redline synthetic, tuned for another 1000 miles and dyno'd it. Tuned the entire first 3500 miles, working on bottom end and midrange.
More of an old school approach but one that has worked for me now on my 7th motor over 20 years.
Jim
My last 2 motors I ran dino oil (Rotella non-synthetic) until the vapors coming out of my catch cans diminished (~3500 miles), then switched to Redline synthetic, tuned for another 1000 miles and dyno'd it. Tuned the entire first 3500 miles, working on bottom end and midrange.
More of an old school approach but one that has worked for me now on my 7th motor over 20 years.
Jim