Hi,
I've wrote this up for people who need an idea on the kit's assembly and headaches to be expected
or those who are just curious
First I'll start by saying i found the pictures of the not so shinny pipped (rough draft) of the kit on the net..when i needed help..
i dont have any under shots of my car as of yet but , its all the same just much shinier

ok,

here are some install pic's

this shows where the turbo ends up on drivers side front of motor:


heres a pic of the pipes routing on drivers side under car:



heres the pipes tiing into the rear of the car:


the alt has to be relocated..i bought the bracket from smokin hawk here on ls1tech (he makes em) the original alt bracket stays put because you need the tensioner still in place for the new 79 1/2" belt:


here's some shots of my car in progress,but drivable:







The car shown on the ground w/intercooler is mine.
the under car shots of the installed kit isn't my car , just picks i got for reference
so here's some pointers ,

make sure to exhaust wrap *at least* all the pipes on the drivers side under the hedder so it don't cook you motor mount or any wires

you start with the passenger side hedder first and build from there

make sure to assemble all the hot side piping including mounting the turbo and leave all of the v-clamps loose so you can tweek it all

make sure steering shaft turns without rubbing or striking piping then tighten it all down

the only problems you will run into is: on my kit and sombody elses i read.. the drivers hedder doesnt line up with the very front exhaust manifold bolt hole on the motor and you will have to drimmel the first and last hole on the hedder out more
be sure to check your kit for this
big deal i guess

changing the plugs on the drivers side is now more difficult than the pass. side but not impossible. "i did it"
the pass. side is now a cake walk...unless you just want the practice go ahead and put your colder plugs (autolite 103's or ngk t6's) gapped at .035-.040 in before you start to put in the first hedder

take your time and have fun!..i will put more pic's of my car here as i get closer to completion
-Mike-

 

looks good, what turbo you using?

 

the one that came with it...working fine so far...i neglected to write down its specs..it says a/r.70..it's polished...seems solid

 

How's the ground clearance on your lowered car?

 

working out fine..must shy away from all speed bumps for sure tho!
i do wana put stock coil springs back in the suspension....
an sts kit would not have worked @ all with a lowered f-body
i got a buddy with that kit

 

damn it looks cramped

 

my car is lowered w/ the sts.... its all in how you drive anyways, the kit looks pretty good! hopefully it wont give you any trouble!

 

how much was it

 

Thanks for adding the other guys pictures. I'm going to mimic my the passenger side setup and crossover on my LT1 setup. I've just got to figure out how to run the down pipe.

 

looks good. good luck with everything.

off topic....would ya wanna sell that lid since ya have no need for it?? lol

 

NE back pressure readings on this system??

 

Any dyno #'s or track times. There are several threads on this, but no data.

 

already sold

 

#'s soon

 

Pretty cool, you'll have to let us know how well it performs. Bob

 

I have the PTK/PTS kit that it is a copy of. My turbo is a P76GTS and I made right at 600rwhp at 10psi with a sick rich AFR and 4deg less timing than I run now. I haven't had it back on the dyno but it feels a whole world different with more timing, and an 11.3:1 AFR on lots of meth and 17psi. I have 7K hard miles on my engine and kit.

Some more tips are WRAP that driver side manifold up less for it's sake and more for what's around it. Wrap your pwer steering lines that are near the merge where the turbo mounts. Buy solid motor mounts. The crossover feeds a pipe that feeds the merge, and that goes right under the motor mount; the downpipe goes right over it. I had "mystery smoke" for a week or so before I realized it was my motor mount. Also of great concern, our steering shaft has a plastic inner section that absorbs some vibration that would goto the wheel, and it will get weak and you will get wheel play. Actually had that part out yesterday and a friend of mine welded it up so it is positively connected now. I used 2 SPAL 12" pushers to keep it cool (thanks RICE ETR) and they worked great.

I think all kits have some issues, and this is part of what you paid for when this kit was new to be able to keep AC and have no pipes under your K member.

If I did it all now, I would go OFI, though that eBay price is nice. With the low cost of Forced Induction's tc76mps there is no way I'd keep that turbo that the eBay kit comes with.

Best of luck guys, I have really enjoyed mine.

 

the first 4 photos are of the actual PTK/PTS mock up first kit
I have the exact same photos that Dalton sent to me when I got my kit back in 2005

 

Thank you so very much!
I was wondering about this kit.
the seller of it seems to know little to nothing about it.. He didnt even have pics of it installed!!!
looks like I will be picking one up.

 

yea...its not that he don't know...its he don't wana get sued for copyright inf., or get sued for a blown motor for tell'n sum1 how to install it, or he just don't wana answer the( what all do i need) question....any how..many more ebay purchases l8r for all the extra stuff needed, I'm happy so far...im so gonna make a list..altho i'm well under pt?'s asking price

 

so. whats the update?