Your theory and your tuners theory breaks the law (thermo dynamic)... law > theory. Headers make this setup much less efficient BTU what do i know?

 

how many of these rear turbo setups has your tuner done?

why would you not trust the real world results of the numerous members here that DO have a rear mount setup on their car and have gone thru all this over the last few years and figured out what does and doesn't work.

if you like to do things twice put the headers on and waste your time and money. both of which are all yours to do with what you wish.

 

I was gonna build a rear mount myself a few months ago. Ended up just buying the APS kit. I have a few things you might be interested in like STS turbo/wastegate mount, STS tubing that goes along the side of the car, intercooler and thats all I can remember at the moment. Let me know if you are interested and I'll work you up some prices.

 

Tell me how thermo dynamics has anything to do with making the motor (air pump) more efficient? Didn't I say, then worry about keeping the heat in (thermo dynamics) my point is this .. if the heat is the only factor, then wont you still get the same results at the motor by using the long tubes?

Say long tubes pick up 18HP on an NA car .. same are in .. same air out.
Why wouldnt I still pick up the same 18HP at the motor but be more efficient with the air spooling up the turbo and just keep all the heat in the system therefore make more HP at the same boost level even if it takes me 200 more RPM to get to that boost level? I have yet to see anyone say anything about dyno numbers difference in long tubes vs stock manifolds just spool time.

 

that point is true, peak power might be a touch higher although I dont know that I have seen anybody post results.

the point though is it will be laggy as shizzle and spool super slow and the overall performace will blow compared to using stock manifolds.

it's power under the curve not peak power you want to look at.

if you want a car that falls over when you mash it until you reach 4000 rpm, and it then starts picking up steam and really gets rolling for a whole 1500 rpm, then put the long tubes on.

if you want something that will make the same power (maybe a few hp less, usure) but comes on strong at 3k and pulls til redline then use the stock manifolds.

in any case, you seem to be one that is going to do it his way no matter what, so put the long tubes on, and post up later how the kit sucks.

 

Im sorry if I come across a bit strong, I asked for help because I dont understand why it is that way. I just want to know other than heat what is the major kill factor for the long tubes. I am not set either way, hell I can use to sell them and buy and SCT so I can get a tune. But its alot easier for me to use them since I already have them. If heat wrap will put me right back where I am with stock manifolds but still have a few more peek HP and spool withing 200 rpm of where I was at with stock I would rather have the extra few. 200 less RPM is only going to blow the tires off that much faster.

 

Alright screw it .. Sold the headers tonight, moving on to the next thing .. what about down pipe routing. I know there has to be some kind of back pressure against the exducer or it will not boost fast at all or not produce good boost numbers. Should I just run a 45º then pipe it back to my tips?

 

hgfhd

 

zombie has found flaring out to a 4" and running a that out and off the turbo doing a 90 to exit under the bumper has been best for max effort.

i myself run 3" off the turbo then do a 90 then Y off to create a dual exhaust if you will. this way I have 2 mufflers one of which muffles the wastegate sound.

seems to work just dandy for the 500rwhp and under that I run.

for me, sound reduction was a big priority thus running it this way.

pics can be found here. http://www.norcal-ls1.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47454

 

Setup looks real good, Thanks for the pics. Anyone else have any more input, My exhaust needs to exit in the middle, couple more bends should be easy though ..

 

Where should I reference my boost gauge? And what fuse, circuit does everyone run there oil return pump off of. I have the mocal one mentioned above and it says it can draw 8 amps.

 

What?

 

Bump for the above question...

 

wiring is cheap and easy. Get an amp install kit from Walmart for $30 and then 1-3 relays. My fused 6 gage feed line runs from the battery to a distrubution block in the trunk. It then feeds 3 relays, 1 for the oil pump, and 1 for each fuel pump. The relays are triggered by the OEM fuel pump power line.

 

Thanks Zombie, I already have some 00 gague wire going back there to a cap and a distro block for the system .. what about running it off of that same block .. and trigger the relay off of the fuel pump wire ?

 

Finally got around to getting some pics of what has came in so far. This week I should get the FMIC, Turbo, wastegate and might order the wide band.

Oil Pump:


Some Gauges:


BOV:


Another of the BOV:


Guage pod:

 

Another shipment came yesterday .. just getting around to putting the pics up .. so that makes it 16 days from order to door step for the turbo .. not bad.

The intercooler 31x12x3:


The intercooler piping:


Wastegate:


74mm precision


And for height check:

 

Starting the install tomorrow .. Well at least getting the intercooler on, the gauges in and taking the tank down getting ready for the fuel pump install .. should I run a new power wire for the fuel pump or use the existing circuit since I am going to be relaying the signal off of the power side to run my oil return pump?

 

Still need this help, I am in the shop now and dont know where I can reference my vaccume line for the boost guage and will be starting on the fuel pump right now ..

 

Progress Pics ...

Fuel pump door cut and new pump already in:


FMIC mounting has started, still working on the piping route:






I also have all the gauges mounted and wires ran just have to tap for EGT and Wideband. Where should I tap the EGT at is there one specific bad cylinder or does it really not matter?