View Poll Results: Given a choice, Moser 9" rear or forged 370 shortblock for STS street car
Moser 9" rear
33
84.62%
Forged 370 shortblock
6
15.38%
Voters: 39. You may not vote on this poll
Moser 9" rear or forged 370 shortblock
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 7
From: Ft. Irwin, California (But Virginia is home)
Moser 9" rear or forged 370 shortblock 1. Forged 370 shortblock
2. Moser 9" complete
Have option of one or the other. Was thinking Moser 9" rear, but having a forged bottom end to make more boost would be nice too. Currently have H/C STS@5PSI. Car puts out 453/430SAE on current engine/ boost at 11.1 to 0 AFR and 21 degrees timing (2-bar setup). BTW, it is an M6. Opinions welcome
2. Moser 9" complete
Have option of one or the other. Was thinking Moser 9" rear, but having a forged bottom end to make more boost would be nice too. Currently have H/C STS@5PSI. Car puts out 453/430SAE on current engine/ boost at 11.1 to 0 AFR and 21 degrees timing (2-bar setup). BTW, it is an M6. Opinions welcome
TECH Resident
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From: sneaking in your back door as you leave!/cartersville ga
9 inch.that 370 will not be building no boost when you have a broke *** 10-bolt
oh yeah, just noticed it is a 6-speed......... rearend w/o a question
oh yeah, just noticed it is a 6-speed......... rearend w/o a question
Unless you are strictly dyno queening it I would do the rear end, having a lot of power with a 10 bolt is like getting into a playboy mansion orgy and you cant get a hardon.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 7
From: Ft. Irwin, California (But Virginia is home)
Yea, I was leaning that way too..... but always like to check my options before dropping serious coin on the car BTW, she doesn't make enough HP to be a dyno queen 
I voted 370 because my rear lasted almost a year with the turbo kit on it. But when I think about once you get a forged motor and turn it up it will definately check out sooner.
Definately do the rear first.
Definately do the rear first.
I always tend to beef up the drivetrain, then down the road you dont have to worry about adding some power, costs the same in the end either way..
It sucks dropping alot of $$ into something that doesn't give you immediate performance gains BUT you gotta do the right thing and build the drivetrain to handle more power before there it more power than the drivetrain can handle. You'll be glad you did in the end.
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Even though I got lucky and had my 10 bolt hold up to years of thrashing, and the same goes for my stocker 4L60e that was retired without incident (can't say the same for the supposed stage 4 4l60es that replaced it) that if I had it all to do over again I'd start beefing up the drivetrain first, then the motor, then on to the turbo or s/c'er set up.
Go moser 9.
J
Go moser 9.
J
as everyone says.. Stock motors have been known to hold 500 hp or so for a while. 10 bolts break under stock, so go 9 inch for sure, then build the motor when you get more money.
Also if you build the motor, and turn up boost your rear end will probably go as soon as you make more power.
Chris
Also if you build the motor, and turn up boost your rear end will probably go as soon as you make more power.
Chris
I was the guy with a small heads/cam with a SSI T-56, Spec 3, 3" steel driveshaft, and 9" rear. None of that made me faster, but its allowing me to not have to worry about the ~700rwhp I'll be running this year breaking anything (well the clutch will be the weak point, but that should be anyways!)
(well the clutch will be the weak point, but that should be anyways!) 
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 7
From: Ft. Irwin, California (But Virginia is home)
Appreciate all the responses. 9" it was. Ordered it this afternoon from Va Speed Now I'll just hope the engine doesn't blow w/in the next 6 months
Now I'll just hope the engine doesn't blow w/in the next 6 months 
