ROTFLAMO! NO ****!

Chris

 

about MM's tune... i can't believe someone who doesn't know jack about tuning (otherwise he would have done it himself) is criticizing a car that he would never stand a chance to... ever

blue, in order to talk smack, it is important that you actually can back it up. You're just jealous man... it is so obvious.

I'll let you do the math on this... Sunday MM schooled a '02 GSXR 750 from a roll... once again in street trim, on pump gas and with his g-friend riding beside him. "eat" that

I couldn't have said it better myself! bwahahaha

 

psj, i have checked for leaks, and the one i have i thnk is superficial, but i will be making sure everything is completely sealed before the car starts again.

02blue.. i have stock displacement.. i know you didnt ask me but if you are looking for more than 550rwhp i would go witha larger turbo in hindsight. the oil drain is if you have a ported oil pump but it does make changing the oil easier not having it in the drain plug spot. either way you will probably need an oil restrictor.. maybe a .08 for stock pump and a .05 for ported oil pump

 

I was gone between lunch and home. All I can say is WOW!

Rob, any regrets about marketing your own kit?

 

Mightymouse- What exactly does your boost do throughout the rpm range? What kind of boost controller do you have? Dual port or single port? What is the base spring pressure of the wastegate, and how much boost are you trying to run? Without an electronic boost controller, you will not have solid boost control. (A bleed valve will almost always give you a spike). I'm not sure what your concerns are about the wastegate location, but being right before the turbine inlet, it is in the ideal location.

Warbird- Exactly how hot does your car run? Does it overheat and boil over? Do you still have the lower air dam, and all stock radiator shrouds in place? Without the shrouds, and air dam, the fans will pull hot air from the engine compartment around and through the radiator (ask me how I know). It should be no suprise that a turbo system can add a substantial amount of underhood heat, and in return, a hotter running engine.

 

INTMD8
All stock shrouding, stock fans etc is in place as is AC.

Their is a 160 stat in the car, fan programming for both fans on at high speed at 175 degrees off at 165 degrees.

He even removed the weather stripping behind the hood by the wipers to vent some of the underhood air plus his car is a WS6 with the nostrils up front.

When the clamp blew off last night it was a night and day difference. The temp gauge read exactly as it did pre-turbo and looked exactly like my NA car. (right around 170 degrees) With the turbo on it stays at 195 when moving above 50mph but creeps up past 210-215 in slower traffic.

The backpressure theory is interesting and one I am starting to give serious thought too.
That and maybe the turbo when blowing hot air through the cooler is increasing hot air transfer through the condensor and the rad reducing its effectiveness.

I think the cutout test will be interesting.

Chris

 

LET you try it? As in, GIVE it to you to try? Or as in, you are going to buy one and try it?? Just want to be clear before I answer.

Secondly, had I known your motor wasn't an 8.5:1 motor, as you originally said it was (last thing you told me was that you "believe it now to be 9.0:1, but ARE can't say for sure"), I would have told you you needed more turbo. You changed your mind at least three times while ordering your kit about how much power you wanted to make. I also suggested that you get the T-74 Q, the day before I was shipping your kit, did I not? Because THAT was when you said you wanted to make over 600rwhp. You then told me that you didn't have the extra $800 to spend. I said, "better to spend $800 now, than $1600 later", didn't I?? But you were CONFIDENT that since the turbo could support up to 750fwhp, that it would be fine. I have ALWAYS thought you needed a bigger turbo. But why would I try to force someone to spend $800 that they don't have?? Please don't blame YOUR choice of turbo on me. We offer nearly every size of turbo available. You ordered a TE-63, that's what you got.

You also wouldn't listen to me about your wastegate not being bad. You INSISTED that it was bad, and what did I do? Sold you one AT MY EXACT COST, and paid HALF of your Overnight shipping on it!! So don't make it sound like the $400 you spent on another wastegate was because of a problem with our kit!

MM, you are hardheaded (not that I'm not), and you need to start listening to people who KNOW...and don't THINK they know.

Warbird - what can I say? You already have all the answers. I'm an idiot with a sh!tty turbo kit, and you are the unfortunate fool that bought one. You know what? I'll try to make it up to you. I'll give you the same offer I made Mightymouse. I'll meet you half way to pick up your car, bring it back here, and fix it. Same deal.

What more can I do?

 

With the new rad the temps are about 220-225 under normal operating conditions, if I get into boost I can see the high side of 230+, that without AC. The car does not overheatand I watch temps pretty closely.

Outside of the new SLP rad, I have the stock shroud in place, stock fans and air damn. The fans are programmed to both come on at 168 and shut off at 160. I have also removed the seal between the cowl and hood for nice days and put it back when there is rain. I can keep the car relatively cool if I short shift under 3000 and stay out of boost.

OK so how do you know?

Paul

 

Those temps are what I would expect, and I don't see why it would be viewed as a problem. My car runs 190 on the highway, and 215 in slow traffic.

A turbo in a 4th gen will cause it to run hotter. You are talking about a substantial amount of heat energy that is staying under the hood to drive the turbine rather than escaping through the exhaust unrestricted.

What size cam is in the car? If it has much overlap the exhaust may be constantly diluting the intake charge, further increasing temps.

 

Sorry, but if you are seeing 220-225 under normal operating conditions, without boost, with an SLP radiator and a 160 thermostat, you have other issues.

How do you know the head gaskets are on correctly? Did you put them on while you were there at ARE for every step of the assembly? The reason I ask, is because that sounds like exactly what my car was doing when I picked it up from ARE. I'm not saying it IS the problem, just that it's one of probably 30 possibilities. And I'm gonna say it...the turbo kit isn't one of those! It may not be helping matters, but it's not your cooling problem. GUARANTEED or your money back!!

How do you like that?

 

Actually Pauls numbers are more accurate than what I stated.

 

Why would it cool normally without boost though?

Are you saying the turbo is somehow pressurizing and forcing the gaskets in some way that does NOT happen with the turbo making zero boost?

He drove the car for months, I was in the car and drove it both pre and post install of the turbo.
Pre install cooling was perfect, no overheating whatsoever.

That is what is so confusing...

Last night when the clamp blew cooling was perfect. Wouldn't it still be hot without boost if the gaskets were fu@ked?

It doesnt make sense but that is what happened. The temps on the way there were high. On the way home after the clamp blew it was perfectly normal (Like it was pre-turbo and like my NA car is now)

 

Actually, INTMD8 made a good point too. I didn't think about the cam.

And yes, possibly there is a boost/headgasket issue. There was with my ARE engine(s).

So who knows.

 

Oops, I almost forgot....it's definitely not our turbo kit causing the problem though.

 

LOL no $#it, somebody pissed someone off.

Hey MM do I get the $100.00 reward if the bigger turbo fixes it. J/K


If you are going with the t-7x seris turbo go with a 72 or larger. I fear with a t-70 based turbo you may run into similar problems, it may work, the only true way to find out is to try it on but from looking at the compressor map boost may drop at 5000rpms and beyond. The T-70 can push much more are the the 63 but it needs a higher pressure ratio to do so. I see why you picked it because the next sized tubo costs 500.00 more. If you realy can not afford a 72 I would choose the 68-1. It can not push as much air as the T70, but for the pressure ratios you will be using I think it will do a better job.

Gary

 

LOL Rob!

Can you explain to me exactly how this would happen though.

Why would it cool normally without boost? (Clamp blown off)

Last night when the clamp blew cooling was perfect. Wouldn't it still be hot without boost if the gaskets were fu@ked?

 

My guess would be that it was because you were driving it home at night. And not in the heat of the Sun, as you were on the way to the track. I checked the weather board...wasn't it around 80ish degrees on the way to the track, and around 58 degrees on the way home? I could be wrong.

Other than that, I have no idea. I'm not afraid, or ashamed to say I don't know. After all, I'm not the one who's working on the car (even though I've offered countless times now).

I do know one thing though...it's not because of our turbo kit that it's overheating.

 

OK Rob, I'll satisfy your curiosity and pull the heads off to check the gaskets. I can't see how but I'll have a look. Of they are bad I'll change them, if they're good what next?

INTMD8,

The cam is 228/228 573/573 114

 

intmd8, my boost goes up to whatever i set it at then down to whatever it wants to.. anything over 10 and it just spikes.. the most i can get out of it is 15 but that seems to depend on temperature/weather.. im not sure.. the whole thing is just really inconsistent

i have tried a handfull of boost controllers, my original turbosmart controller just got back today, i sent it away cuz it wasnt helping the boost problem.. since then ive run ball and spring, regulator style and both.

rob, i mean buy my own when i say try it.. im definitely not going to ask any more of you i dont want to be a pain for you i just want the car to run good. maybe you are getting our conversation confused with some other people, im sure you have talked to a ton, but you never told me that i couldnt get 600rw out of the 63mm. you told me if all i wanted was 600 and no more that the 63 would do it. it doesnt matter i should have taken it upon myself to find out exactly what that turbo would support and found out that it cant do 600rw at 15psi on a 346 ci engine.
i figured the wg was bad because that is what controlls boost, and boost control is what i do not have. i'm sorry if it looks like i have had problems with your kit, but.. well i have... i wish i haven't but i have. i will definitely post if the bigger unit does the trick or not.