Difficulty of install, EPP procharger kit
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,251
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
Difficulty of install, EPP procharger kit I am doing some preliminary research about the EPP procharger kit. I need to know how difficult it is to install. I noticed that they charge a $1000, so that tells me off the bat that there is a lot more to it than simply bolting together some pipes and mount the head unit.
Is there fabbing required, or is everything pretty much to spec?
How much welding is required?
Doies the FMIC require fabbing?
Does the F1A head unit require additional fabbing?
The motor will be pulled to install the new short block, so would that make it any easier? Thanks guys, am trying to decide if this is a potential DIY job, or if it would be better for me to leave it to the PROs.
BTW, Bob feel free to comment.
Is there fabbing required, or is everything pretty much to spec?
How much welding is required?
Doies the FMIC require fabbing?
Does the F1A head unit require additional fabbing?
The motor will be pulled to install the new short block, so would that make it any easier? Thanks guys, am trying to decide if this is a potential DIY job, or if it would be better for me to leave it to the PROs.
BTW, Bob feel free to comment.
FormerVendor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,540
Likes: 0
From: Hell AFB
I am doing some preliminary research about the EPP procharger kit. I need to know how difficult it is to install. I noticed that they charge a $1000, so that tells me off the bat that there is a lot more to it than simply bolting together some pipes and mount the head unit.
Is there fabbing required, or is everything pretty much to spec?
How much welding is required?
Doies the FMIC require fabbing?
Does the F1A head unit require additional fabbing?
The motor will be pulled to install the new short block, so would that make it any easier? Thanks guys, am trying to decide if this is a potential DIY job, or if it would be better for me to leave it to the PROs.
BTW, Bob feel free to comment.
Is there fabbing required, or is everything pretty much to spec?
How much welding is required?
Doies the FMIC require fabbing?
Does the F1A head unit require additional fabbing?
The motor will be pulled to install the new short block, so would that make it any easier? Thanks guys, am trying to decide if this is a potential DIY job, or if it would be better for me to leave it to the PROs.
BTW, Bob feel free to comment.
if you are building the motor and staying with the factory crank, get it keyed!
Other then that, just follow through the instructions and it should be a breeze.
Most of the time making hp is not so much the kit, but everything that goes with it.
Rear end will break unless allready upgraded
Auto trans will die a quick death
Stock clutch will have a fun time
But the above are all a given, hp breaks stuff regardless.
Just make sure you have a good tuner with a load cell dyno, proper octane , and last but not least, a good fuel system!
You should leave it to the pros for several reasons.First and most inportant you should get a dyno tune after the install to get the A/R ratio correct.If you screw this up you risk smoking your motor.You will need to make sure your fuel delivery system will handle the extra work load.Almost any one can bolt on a ProCharger but only a few skilled Techs can tune the car the way it should be after making that kind of modification.EPP installed my ProCharger and for my money no one does it better.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 0
From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
Its pretty easy to get setup and running. Most people get hung up on pinning the crank.
if you are building the motor and staying with the factory crank, get it keyed!
Other then that, just follow through the instructions and it should be a breeze.
Most of the time making hp is not so much the kit, but everything that goes with it.
Rear end will break unless allready upgraded
Auto trans will die a quick death
Stock clutch will have a fun time
But the above are all a given, hp breaks stuff regardless.
Just make sure you have a good tuner with a load cell dyno, proper octane , and last but not least, a good fuel system!
if you are building the motor and staying with the factory crank, get it keyed!
Other then that, just follow through the instructions and it should be a breeze.
Most of the time making hp is not so much the kit, but everything that goes with it.
Rear end will break unless allready upgraded
Auto trans will die a quick death
Stock clutch will have a fun time
But the above are all a given, hp breaks stuff regardless.
Just make sure you have a good tuner with a load cell dyno, proper octane , and last but not least, a good fuel system!
Thanks for the quick reply. I think the car would be setup for it drivetrain wise. Has the 9", built t56, Nitrous Ready DS, and decent clutch. I am in between building a high compression 418 with a big DP N2O shot or building a blown 402/408.
I already have the top end of the motor (recently installed AFR 205s & Fast 90/90), and the car makes good power right now. I am just on the fence, and it is a really difficult decision. Good thing is that i have 10 months or so to work out the plan.
FormerVendor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,540
Likes: 0
From: Hell AFB
Thanks for the quick reply. I think the car would be setup for it drivetrain wise. Has the 9", built t56, Nitrous Ready DS, and decent clutch. I am in between building a high compression 418 with a big DP N2O shot or building a blown 402/408.
I already have the top end of the motor (recently installed AFR 205s & Fast 90/90), and the car makes good power right now. I am just on the fence, and it is a really difficult decision. Good thing is that i have 10 months or so to work out the plan.
I already have the top end of the motor (recently installed AFR 205s & Fast 90/90), and the car makes good power right now. I am just on the fence, and it is a really difficult decision. Good thing is that i have 10 months or so to work out the plan.
If you plan to only run it at the strip either one can be done, just need proper octane for boost / big shot.
The cylinder heads will work fine with boost, but NA it may lack depending on how fast you want to spin it.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,251
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
It all depends on what kind of use the motor is getting.
If you plan to only run it at the strip either one can be done, just need proper octane for boost / big shot.
The cylinder heads will work fine with boost, but NA it may lack depending on how fast you want to spin it.
If you plan to only run it at the strip either one can be done, just need proper octane for boost / big shot.
The cylinder heads will work fine with boost, but NA it may lack depending on how fast you want to spin it.
I like the idea of the nitrous because I could run a dedicated fuel cell with race gas. Of course, w/ the F1SC I could simply change pulleys to take it to the track and run race gas. Both are cool, but FI is sort of in a league of its own.
Anyhow, I understand that the kit installs pretty easy, but is there welding/fabing involved or does is it pretty much bolt up?
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 0
From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
You should leave it to the pros for several reasons.First and most inportant you should get a dyno tune after the install to get the A/R ratio correct.If you screw this up you risk smoking your motor.You will need to make sure your fuel delivery system will handle the extra work load.Almost any one can bolt on a ProCharger but only a few skilled Techs can tune the car the way it should be after making that kind of modification.EPP installed my ProCharger and for my money no one does it better.
The fuel system doesn't seem all that complicated. I mean, you just run bigger pumps, fuel rails, injectors, ext. I think that Nastyperformance sells some pretty decent kits, so i would probably go that route.
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FormerVendor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,540
Likes: 0
From: Hell AFB
It will be a street/strip car, but obviously not a DD.
I like the idea of the nitrous because I could run a dedicated fuel cell with race gas. Of course, w/ the F1SC I could simply change pulleys to take it to the track and run race gas. Both are cool, but FI is sort of in a league of its own.
Anyhow, I understand that the kit installs pretty easy, but is there welding/fabing involved or does is it pretty much bolt up?
I like the idea of the nitrous because I could run a dedicated fuel cell with race gas. Of course, w/ the F1SC I could simply change pulleys to take it to the track and run race gas. Both are cool, but FI is sort of in a league of its own.
Anyhow, I understand that the kit installs pretty easy, but is there welding/fabing involved or does is it pretty much bolt up?
Not to shy you away from the n20, but you tend to have to be on the game when running bigger shots.
Either way, proper gauges and engine patience are a must with this amount of HP.
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