Silicone coupler elbow on Procharger?
Silicone coupler elbow on Procharger? I am curious if anyone thinks that a turbohoses.com 4" 90*silicone elbow attached directly onto a F1C would collapse or close shut during WOT? I had the radiator stood up straight by a local guy, but that didn't give us enough room to fit a 4" elbow.
I ended up buying a 4" 90* silicone coupler, and it seems to be somewhat flimsy. I am just curious what you guys would think. I do recall reading reading about guys that have had the cheap Ebay elbows collapse, so that why I went with the turbohoses silicone elbow which cost a prety penny ($126!) I was hoping that since it cost that much, it would of been very firm and hard to sqeeze, but its prety soft. Any ideas?
My best option right now would be to have a competant welder make something like this for me using aluminum piping, but dont want to go to this route unless I have to. I am way over budget already .
This is what Koji77 made to use on is F1R setup.
I ended up buying a 4" 90* silicone coupler, and it seems to be somewhat flimsy. I am just curious what you guys would think. I do recall reading reading about guys that have had the cheap Ebay elbows collapse, so that why I went with the turbohoses silicone elbow which cost a prety penny ($126!) I was hoping that since it cost that much, it would of been very firm and hard to sqeeze, but its prety soft. Any ideas?
My best option right now would be to have a competant welder make something like this for me using aluminum piping, but dont want to go to this route unless I have to. I am way over budget already .
This is what Koji77 made to use on is F1R setup.
Last edited by Jimmy P; Apr 16, 2008 at 01:32 AM.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Dublin, CA
Turbohoses.com hoses are high quality, but are flexible and thin. The guys there are great. I asked them to replace all my angled hoses with metal tube, and only use straight connectors because the pipe end catches air if the hose isn't tight against it. Take a look inside a short hose on a large pipe.
I'd vote for metal elbow, maybe aluminum pipe.
I'd vote for metal elbow, maybe aluminum pipe.
i guess your talking about the inlet? i prefer metal if possible, if theres any kind of rest. a flex. joint can suck in, prob. a bend more so
i have a minor problem with my intake, 4.5" from the d1sc to the radiator
right now i am using an F body intake tube, but the inlet is 3.5"
i am fabbing up an old procharger hat to use, i cut out a flat plate to cover the carb opening, bored a hole thru it and welded a ring for the hose-it still only has a 3.5 opening, but i think there are some cheap hats out there with 4" openings that might be modified-i think a truck intake tube from procharger has a 4" opening with a tight bend, i had one but sent it back because it had a curve that hit my radiator
i have a minor problem with my intake, 4.5" from the d1sc to the radiator
right now i am using an F body intake tube, but the inlet is 3.5"
i am fabbing up an old procharger hat to use, i cut out a flat plate to cover the carb opening, bored a hole thru it and welded a ring for the hose-it still only has a 3.5 opening, but i think there are some cheap hats out there with 4" openings that might be modified-i think a truck intake tube from procharger has a 4" opening with a tight bend, i had one but sent it back because it had a curve that hit my radiator
I purchased that aluminum 90 from Pep Boyz.... $35.... I cut about 1" off the side that connects to the blower... I know it looks tight, but I actually have 1" clearance between the rad and the 90.
I purchased that aluminum 90 from Pep Boyz.... $35.... I cut about 1" off the side that connects to the blower... I know it looks tight, but I actually have 1" clearance between the rad and the 90.
If anyone else needs one and can't seem to find it at Pepboys, here it is.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-Inc...QQcmdZViewItem
If this is against the rules, then I apoligize and will erase the link. I just figured that it wouldn't since no sponsors sell such a tight 90" aluminum bend.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-Inc...QQcmdZViewItem
If this is against the rules, then I apoligize and will erase the link. I just figured that it wouldn't since no sponsors sell such a tight 90" aluminum bend.
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If you are talking about the same one that EPP uses on their car, its a 3.75" ID tube, which is perfect for their setup since the F1A inlet is 3.75"
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I'm having one fabbed up right now. If it turns out nice I will post pics, might even try to sell it. It will be all aluminum with less restriction than a 4" 90* pipe & should fit an F1 with some minor cutting on the lower rad mount, maybe a little fan shroud modding. Should be done in 2 weeks?
I have an F1-C (the OD of the snout is a bunny hair over 4") + a BeCool dbl core radiator, AC deleted, an EPP FMIC, and want to use an air filter with a 4" OD opening. Piece of cake, lots of room....which is why nobody makes one.
I have an F1-C (the OD of the snout is a bunny hair over 4") + a BeCool dbl core radiator, AC deleted, an EPP FMIC, and want to use an air filter with a 4" OD opening. Piece of cake, lots of room....which is why nobody makes one.
The goal is to have it race ready in a month, and car show ready by Memerial Day. I got it running last weekend and now I'm starting to tweak the tune so we can dyno it. I have my intake elbow getting a throttle bracket welded on it along with the inlet hat prototype getting made, just got my M9 and still have to install my roll cage. Much to do....I will post when the hat is done.
If you spin that engine to 6500rpms, that should prety much max out that blower. I will be starting wtih a 4" blower pulley and 7.25" crank pulley,
and then think about going to a 3.7" blower pulley if all goes well.
and then think about going to a 3.7" blower pulley if all goes well.
